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I received the 314AW. I think it is really nice. It runs but needs a tune-up. Put oil in and it smokes. Don't know how the whistle unit works, or what extra's I have to buy, but will learn. Mainly interested in getting the engine running good for now. Overall, the paint and graphics are wonderful. Curious to what it would grade on the scale? 6 or 7? Owner said it sat for 40 yrs. but opened the tender and it has been rewired and the drum was like new. Lubed the loco and p
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ut it on the test stand and it started out very slowly but gained speed in no time. Here are some picks. I NEVER SHOULD HAVE BOUGHT MY FIRST STEAMER. Now I have 8. Wife is starting to question me.
 

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Nice engine. Based on the pictures I would grade that at least a 7. In the old days we would call it an E+. Take a look at the thread titled "Grandma's Christmas Train." The oval shaped whistle conroller with the toggle switch on top is pictured just to the left of the black #2 transformer. That is what you need to activate the 314AW whistle. I also explained how it works in that thread.
 

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Thank you all. I will try to get better pics. No the whistle control box did not come with it. Does anyone have the number for it? Then I can search the internet for one. I think they might be expensive.
 

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If you have a newer transformer with whistle and bell buttons on it, such as the MRC AH101, one of those buttons should activate the the DC relay in the 314AW tender. These all operate on the same principle. They apply a DC offset, around 4V, to the AC sine wave. On new 2 button controllers one button applies a -DC voltage, the other a +DC voltage. I can use those buttons on my AH101 to activate the whistle and bell functions on my modern Legacy engines without the need for a Legacy control system. Reversing the direction of engine travel on the track changes which button activates each function.
 

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I only have a 30B and a 4B transformer. Is there a way to jump the signal to see if it even works? I am not electrical savy. But I can do some stuff. The armature turns freely but I don't want to fry it if it's good and do the wrong thing. Just thought it would be cool to get it going. Saw a video online and it sounds neat.
 

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Yes, there is. All that the DC offset from the control box does is activate the coil of a DC relay to close a contact. You just need to jumper around that N.O. contact and the whistle will work with AC power from one of your transformers. You should be able to do this with the tender shell removed.
 

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I think so, I do not have one in front of me to look at as a double check. Later on, go to the PortLines site and click on Repair Clinics in the L.H. column. Open Clinic #42. Go to P33, section 7.2 at the bottom. It shows how to make a controller from 7 cheap 5A diodes.
 

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Congratulations, it must feel great!
Not quite any engine. It must be a 4 wire smoke in boiler engine, then yes, just plug in the 4 pin fiber connector. One more compatibility issue, your engine has the diecast trailing truck with a separately attached tender connection to a spreader bar in the cab. Many of the 312's and 290's had a one piece trailing truck and tender bar, these engines are not compatible with your tender without some modification work.
 

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Tom, THANK YOU for your knowledge and help. I really appreciate it. I didn't realize there were two different 314AW loco's. I see what you are talking about with the tender. I suppose that means I bought the one that is worth the least. It is a 4 pin connector with smoke in boiler. I am going to try and find a whistle control box. It really does sound like a train whistle when I manually closed the solenoid contact.
Richard
 

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Always pleased to help when I can. It is great to see these engines running.
You have the better looking and more sought after version. The tender attaches directly to the spreader bar in the engine cab. The trailing truck has the detailed casting that screws to the chassis.
The other version is a single long metal bar that connects the tender to the engine chassis, the trailing truck wheels have no sideframe, they are just attached to that long drawbar.
 

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Great info, thanks so much. You and the others here have such great knowledge that took yrs. to accumulate. I appreciate it. Being 70 yrs. old with tremers it is hard to do work on the small areas. But I persevere. I so sincerely appreciate everyone's help.
 
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