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Discussion Starter #1
i am using peco HO code 100 tracks DCC i need to buy my turnouts for my railyard shuold i use small or medium turnouts?
 

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Depends on how long the cars and locos that run through it are going to be. Things up to about 50 scale feet will be ok on the small turnouts; anything longer, go for the mediums. All else being equal, the broader your curves and higher your frog #s, the better.
 

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Good response and wise decision.

I like to add a little future consideration to my replies. Often newcomers can't wait to get their tracks down so they can run the few items of rolling stock on it. The problem comes a year later, often only a few months, when they're bitten hard and running hard in the hobby; they want a new engine, often a bigger one, and maybe run some long passenger cars. That's when they learn that their initial choices and design that led to them were...ummm….short-sighted. A great way to go at the time, to be sure, but there was no consideration for eventualities.

All this to say, when planning a layout, don't just plan for whatcha brung. You'll expand in a way, and at some point you'll find you failed to consider future acquisitions and changes in interest. So, as our advisor CTValley wisely added, always 'go big' when you can, and do it BEFORE you realize you've painted yourself into the proverbial corner. Use wider curves, larger frog numbers, whenever you can.
 

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Peco "medium" turnouts

i am using peco HO code 100 tracks DCC i need to buy my turnouts for my railyard shuold i use small or medium turnouts?

foreverautistic;

I agree with CTValley's recommendation of medium turnouts rather than small. Also you have made a good choice by going with Peco. They are excellent quality, and very reliable turnouts.

Here's some more information on turnouts.

View attachment All AboutTurnouts rev 4.pdf

Traction Fan :smilie_daumenpos:
 

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Also depends on how long your yard can be. MIne is five tracks wide and the last is half the length of the first.
 

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I used only the Peco Insulfrog small turnouts on my layout, never
a problem even with my 70 foot passenger cars in
the yards. However, I only used 4 wheel truck locos.

The amount of space you have for your yards is a major
factor in your selection.

Don
 

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Yard design

I used only the Peco Insulfrog small turnouts on my layout, never
a problem even with my 70 foot passenger cars in
the yards. However, I only used 4 wheel truck locos.

The amount of space you have for your yards is a major
factor in your selection.

Don
foreverautistic;

I'm going to somewhat disagree with DonR on this one.
First, I rarely disagree with Don, since he's very smart. :D
Second, knowing how reliable Peco turnouts are, I have no reason to doubt Don's favorable results with the smaller turnouts.

Where I differ is in yard design. I believe in very conservative, and very simple, "yard ladders." (the string of turnouts at the entrance/exit of a yard) Since strings of cars are routinely pushed backward in a yard, I think that's where we want to have the easiest path possible, to every track, to minimise the odds of a derailment.
"Easiest", in this case means larger frog number turnouts. (medium instead of small) and a simple yard ladder arrangement where a backing train only has to make one turn, to reach any track in the yard.
The length of yard tracks can be increased, a little, by shortening the yard ladder. This can be done by using "compound ladder" arrangements, or strings of turnouts that make a train veer first one way. and then the other, in virtual "reverse curves. I don't favor this approach.
Where I needed a shorter yard ladder, I built one with one turnout overlapping another. (I build my own turnouts anyway, so for me, this was no big deal.) If you prefer to buy, rather than build, Micro Engineering sells a commercial compact ladder in HO-scale. Their ladder uses #5 turnouts which would fall between "small" and "medium" in Peco's terms. Micro engineering turnouts are a very close second to Peco in overall quality so if the length of your yard ladder is an issue on your layout, then the M/E compact yard ladder may be something to look at.
Keeping things as simple as possible, along with the previous advice to "go big" whenever you can, will ultimately pay off in reliable operation.

Traction Fan :smilie_daumenpos:
 

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Play it safe and go with Peco #6.

My layout is being build with Peco #8 for ALL turnouts. My largest steam locomotive is a BLI 4-8-4 Northern. It will go forward and backwards thru ALL my turnouts with no problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
2 new queations

i forgot to ask 1-shuold i use insulfrog or elec frog for dcc i trying to do the yard like i did with bachmAmm turnouts i used LT ,RT gos into yard & LT#4 ,RT#4 IN YARD LT & RT is stirgt and curved # 4s is stright and stight left or right
dose peco have both these like bachmann has ______ & _______
) \
 

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Discussion Starter #12
i mean i like use them turnouts like bachmann ones
stright-curve LH and stright and stright LH it be peco turnouts
________ ________
) \
 

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There 2 different kinds of switches; 'all live' and 'power-routing'.
Insulfrog is just Peco's name for 'all-live'. Electrofrog is their name for 'power routing' switches...
Power routing switches where developed in the analog-only era of model trains in the 50s. They are, by way of their moving point-rails, able to isolate spurs and other trackwork so as to be able to run a train into this spur/yard/passing siding/roundhouse stall track, and keep it from moving as you run another train using the same analog DC power pack. I.E. the switch points actually act as an off/on switch for these track places.
Since DCC control and DCC equipped locos are able to be run independently via the same DCC throttle, power-routing switches are less and less necessary today as any train can now be stopped/left idling anywhere without affecting any other train..
So, since you are going DCC, the majority, if not all of your switches should be all-live Atlas or Peco-insulfrog..or any other brand of all-live switches...There are some uses for power-routing in DCC. But I'll be damned if I can cite them here.
I will say this, though: Stall-outs are more common over all-live, and short-outs are more common over power routers..
I'll let someone else explain this, if needed.
M,Los Angeles
 

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Discussion Starter #15
im total confused so what turnouts shuold i buy being i cant send photo of my layout because i dont have computer on my smart tv it sucks
ok for sample say my layout ovel mainline on each side i have 4 turnouts going in 4 going back out (using stright curve) conected to each one of them i use another turnout (using stright stright turn left & right using 3 ) and using 3 way wye using 4 ) to make more rails in my railyard there be total of 10 rails one is DEADEND rail to junk yard pices parts of trains i hope u understand i mean
 

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In one of your posts you wrote that you will use Peco medium turnouts. You did not give us any idea of locomotives you will be using. Insulated frog or electro frog may depend on your locomotives.

As for DC or DCC either turnout will work
 

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I think at least some of the consideration between live and dead frogs falls to what locos you are running. For example if you like steam locos and want to run an 0-4-0 in your yard, it has a very short wheel base and it may not have the electrical contacts to span across the frog (especially longer frogs). This is a case where you must have a live frog to allow the locomotive to operate reliably. Of course a live frog will be helpful for ALL locos, but it comes at a cost... You need some kind of device to provide the correct power to the frog (which changes when you change which direction the points are facing). If you are using motors to control your points, then many will have an option to supply power to the frog. However if you are manually flipping your points then there may not be an easy way to provide the correct power to the frogs. So before you go buying a bunch of turnouts you need to take a moment and really understand what your needs will be and how the different options will affect you.

Regarding the discussion about wanting longer equipment at a later date -- one deciding factor here can be the time period you want to model. If you have settled on something in the 1800's then the cars lengths were much more limited. The layout I'm designing won't really see anything longer than 40' passenger cars and 2-8-0 locomotives, so #5 turnouts are actually acceptable for the yards, and I'm using closer to #6 and #7 on the mainline. I also have a logging line that will use a small Shay and 25' cars which will have tiny 12" radius curves. If you figure out what exactly you want to model and know the limitations of the equipment used, it makes it easier to decide what is 'best' for your layout.
 

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Turnout confusion

i forgot to ask 1-shuold i use insulfrog or elec frog for dcc i trying to do the yard like i did with bachmAmm turnouts i used LT ,RT gos into yard & LT#4 ,RT#4 IN YARD LT & RT is stirgt and curved # 4s is stright and stight left or right
dose peco have both these like bachmann has ______ & _______
) \
foreverautistic;

You are right, turnouts can be a somewhat complicated, and sometimes confusing, subject! In my first reply to your original post on page #1 of this thread, I sent you a file called, "All about turnouts." Have you read that file yet? If not, I going to suggest that you read it. I think it will help clear up some of things that are confusing you now. I am a bit confused myself by your description of your yard turnout arraignment. "RT#4 goes into a LT#4?" While I think it's obvious enough that you are talking about Right hand #4 turnouts and Left hand #4 turnouts, I can't picture what that would require a train to do. Does a backing train have to jog first right, and then left, to get into a yard track? If so, I don't recommend that arrangement, but it's your railroad, so that's your decision.

I will try to answer your question about substituting Peco turnouts for your old Bachmann turnouts. However, I would like to learn which type of Bachmann turnouts you have now.

Bachmann makes two different types of turnouts.

One is designed for use with their "EZ-Track" system. This is the Bachmann track, with gray plastic "roadbed" pieces attached to the bottom of each track section, including the turnouts.

The other type of Bachmann turnout is plain track, without the gray plastic roadbed piece.

Which of these types do you have now?

In either case, the Peco turnouts are not going to just slip into the exact same space that was occupied by the Bachmann turnouts.
The Bachmann "plain track" type turnouts (The non-EZ-track type with no plastic roadbed attached.) are made in approximately the same shape as Atlas "Snap Switch" turnouts. They have one straight route, and one curved route. In the case of the Atlas HO-scale "Snap Switch", the turnout can be directly substituted for a 9" straight section of track, or for an 18" radius curved section of track.
This "one-straight-one-curved" arrangement is very peculiar among turnouts. Nearly all model turnouts, regardless of brand, and virtually all real turnouts, have two straight routes that vere off from each other at an angle. There is no curved route.
(There is one exception, a "curved turnout" has two curved routes, and no straight route.)

So, you will need to adjust some of the track feeding into each turnout to make the Peco fit into the same general area that the Bachmann turnout formerly occupied. This is fairly easy to do by taking up a section or two of track, and replacing those sections with short pieces of flex track.

Don't get discouraged. You have made two very good decisions already.
First going with Peco turnouts. They are excellent, and should work very reliably once you have installed them.
Second "going big" by using Peco "medium" turnouts (equivalent to a #6 turnout) These should be able to handle any locomotive you have, or might buy later.
Once you have installed these turnouts, you should have few, if any, derailments on turnouts. I suspect you have had several derailments on the Bachmann ones.

As for the "Insulfrog" vs. "Electrofrog" choice, either should work for you. I happen to prefer the "Electrofrog" type, but that's just me being extra careful. Locomotives with all-wheel electrical pickup can roll right through an "Insulfrog" or an "Electrofrog." Very short locos, or locos that only pick up power from a few wheels, will work better on an Electrofrog, because the frog can be wired to provide power up to the loco's wheels, just like any other piece of rail. However, this can mean doing some extra wiring. Fortunately nearly all locomotives made in the last 10-15 years do have all-wheel pickup.

So, Yes Peco, Yes medium, Yes either insulfrog or electrofrog.

Good luck;

Traction Fan :smilie_daumenpos:
 

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Peco's "insulfrog' turnouts are power-routing.
Wrong. Insul are 'all live'/frog insulated from the 4 converging rails at the frog..
Electro are 'power routing'/ frog is used to power which ever route the switch is set to/other route now dead up to gaps in track of the diverging route= diverging route train can not enter the switch until switch point is then set to that route..
 

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I’m sure some may disagree with my concept of my layout. I’m in process of building my first layout as an adult which is a 10x16 in ho scale. I decided I wanted to run big steam. What I’ve done is built a concept of how I want my track to be layed out to be sure that all my locomotives and rolling stock will be compatible with my track plan. What I’ve learned so far is if you run diesels they seem to be more forgiving than your steam engines and if you do have an issue with your track that big 120’ scale steam locomotive IS going to find the fault in your turn radius or any faults in your track laying. The larger locomotives tend to refuse anything under a 24” radius turn not sure what era you’re wanting to run steam diesel or a combination but something else to keep in mind if you’re running big steam go with the largest turnouts your track plan will allow or plan on having derailment issues commonly
 
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