[MoistyFinch]

Hello ! , some of my Lionel, bachman and tyco engines will have this problem where they will run for a minute or two than stop , this is not a track cleaning problem as far as I’m concerned and I have other trains that will run for hours perfectly. To me the trains seem like they are over heating but I doubt that’s the case . I’m new to ho scale , does anyone know some fixes ?

 

[MichaelE]

Have you cleaned the wheels or pickups lately?

 

[MoistyFinch]

Have you cleaned the wheels or pickups lately?

Yes , I have done that already

 

[Dennis461]

could be bad motors. Can you open up and clean armature and brushes?
Also remove old grease, put in new.

 

[MidwestMikeGT]

I wonder if it could also be the power supply not being able to handle the load and overheating IF multiple engines are being run. If I might add to @Dennis461's excellent post, use the correct oil for the motors. I found out that over-lubricating them with too much grease has the opposite effect, where it actually creates resistance and increase the power needs.

 

[Jscullans]

Are you sure it’s not bad connection through your track? I’ve recently come across an issue where my track looks perfectly clean and I use contact cleaner and a paper towel and my rails make a real dark black line where the paper towel was rubbing the rail heads

 

[DonR]

We hear about a lot of very unusual electrical
situations from modellers...your problem is in
that category.

It would be helpful to know:

Is your layout DC or DCC?
Is there more than one loco on the track when
the loco stops?
Does the loco headlight go OUT when loco stops?
Does Power pack indicate a SHORT CIRCUIT?
Is there more than one place where locos stop?
If there is a 'non troubled' loco on the track at same
time as 'troubled' loco stops...does non 'troubled'
loco continue running?

Usually, when a loco pauses or stops there is a
loss of electrical conductivity between the track
and the power pickup wheels.

There can be a various reasons for the loss of power.
Grime on the track and/or loco power pickup wheels.
Lack of ALL wheel power pickup.
Poor contact of wheel wipers to wheels.
Loose wire connections INSIDE loco.

It is possible to have a Defective or worn motor
but it would be odd to have several such at the
same time.

You can test for a defective motor...it would draw
excessive amps.

Set your multimeter to AMPS
Remove all but one of the 'troubled' locos
from the track.
Disconnect one wire from the power pack
to track feed.
Connect one probe of the meter to wire
from power pack.
Connect other probe of the meter to the
track.
Slowly run up the speed control and observe
the meter reading. If you get a reading
of .05 or so you may have a motor that
is working hard or needs brush work.

Let us know what you find.

Don

 

[DonR]

There is a thread on this very subject by another
member. In it, a member suggested that the RF interference
capacitor may be defective. That is a very apt
consideration. It would be simple to test this
by disconnecting one lead of the capacitor and
running the loco. If there is no pausing or stopping,
it would indicate that the capacitor was defective
and should be removed. It is there to prevent
noise in radio and TV sets and has no use
otherwise.

Don

 

[MoistyFinch]

could be bad motors. Can you open up and clean armature and brushes?
Also remove old grease, put in new.
[

 

[MoistyFinch]

I removed the old grease and lubricated the gears , would a video of the loco help ?

 

[MoistyFinch]

Are you sure it’s not bad connection through your track? I’ve recently come across an issue where my track looks perfectly clean and I use contact cleaner and a paper towel and my rails make a real dark black line where the paper towel was rubbing the rail heads

Yes I usually run over it every day or so , it’s not a big track

 

[MoistyFinch]

could be bad motors. Can you open up and clean armature and brushes?
Also remove old grease, put in new.

I have removed the old , would a video of the loco help ?

 

[MoistyFinch]

We hear about a lot of very unusual electrical
situations from modellers...your problem is in
that category.

It would be helpful to know:

Is your layout DC or DCC?
Is there more than one loco on the track when
the loco stops?
Does the loco headlight go OUT when loco stops?
Does Power pack indicate a SHORT CIRCUIT?
Is there more than one place where locos stop?
If there is a 'non troubled' loco on the track at same
time as 'troubled' loco stops...does non 'troubled'
loco continue running?

Usually, when a loco pauses or stops there is a
loss of electrical conductivity between the track
and the power pickup wheels.

There can be a various reasons for the loss of power.
Grime on the track and/or loco power pickup wheels.
Lack of ALL wheel power pickup.
Poor contact of wheel wipers to wheels.
Loose wire connections INSIDE loco.

It is possible to have a Defective or worn motor
but it would be odd to have several such at the
same time.

You can test for a defective motor...it would draw
excessive amps.

Set your multimeter to AMPS
Remove all but one of the 'troubled' locos
from the track.
Disconnect one wire from the power pack
to track feed.
Connect one probe of the meter to wire
from power pack.
Connect other probe of the meter to the
track.
Slowly run up the speed control and observe
the meter reading. If you get a reading
of .05 or so you may have a motor that
is working hard or needs brush work.

Let us know what you find.

Don

My layout is dc , the headlights go out as well , it stops after running for a little while but never in the same place of track , there is no other loco on the track besides this one . I’m able to run all of my other locomotives just fine on the track which leads me To think it’s the locomotive itself

 

[mesenteria]

Possibly, but the real problem is likely the controller/power supply. The proper way to test it is under load (which the locomotive does, but then you don't know if it's the locomotive because it's an added factor). You need to test the power feed at the outputs, themselves, when the item is being forced to power something near the 0.5-1.0 range of it's stated/claimed capacity.

 

[DonR]

Your response pretty well tells us that your layout and
power pack are OK...and it seems to point to problems in
the locos...

The headlights going out says a lot...the locos are
losing power.
I suggest AGAIN that the
anti static capacitor could be failing...that would stop
the loco and kill the
headlight. Clip one lead of that cap and see what
happens.

If that doesn't do it...it's back to loss of conductivity.
That means something between the
track and the motor/light is failing to conduct. Looks
like a need to take off the shell and check all wiring.
Run the loco with shell off and when it stops touch
the wiring.

Don

 

[Bobby pitts]

If it's a steamer, check the fuel and or water, diesel, fuel!

See, I can be a big help!🐓

 

[MichaelE]

I've seen cold solder joints do this. After the device has warmed up an open occurs. After it is allowed to cool a few minutes, the connection closes and the cycle repeats itself. This would explain the stopping at random points on the layout.

If it is in a motor winding it will be nearly impossible to find, but could be on a circuit board somewhere. If you are able to set up a test stand for the locomotive and operate it with the circuit board exposed, this sort of fault can easily be located with an electronics cold spray such as Freon. Mouser or Digi-Key sells this if you have no local source.

 

[kilowatt62]

I agree with the post about bad solder joint expansion issue. Can also use a can of compressed air. The $4 stuff from wally mart most use to clean out computer keyboards. It gets very cold when used.

~ Also, I have found that there is often a tiny space of frayed wire just beyond where the solder ends and the insulation begins. That can cause a few issues, one of which being a Locomotive stopping. Too much current going through to few strands creates resistive heat. Hence causing said weak solder joint to expand and, motor and lights not getting needed current. Therefore, a stall action...

~Brushes and armatures. Absolutely must be clean. The deposits that gather just from use will stall a motor. Q-tips and naptha. Not isopropyl alcohol. It can and will melt motor winding insulation if over used. ( I learned that here. )

~Another point mentioned was where the wheels contact the electrical pickup wipers/bushings/shoes/etc. Man, that is a prime place for dirt, hairs, and all other forms of shmegma to collect. Get yourself an extra fine grit “flexi-pad” by Flexi File and after cleaning the gunk away, make those wipers shine and while you’re at it, the backs & Treads of the wheels too.

~Beyond that, all the other troubleshooting methods posted are solid advice imo that should be headed. Smart people here giving free advice, gladly. I listen to them all as if they're name is E.F. Hutton. Lol.

G’day
Scott

 

[MoistyFinch]

I agree with the post about bad solder joint expansion issue. Can also use a can of compressed air. The $4 stuff from wally mart most use to clean out computer keyboards. It gets very cold when used.

~ Also, I have found that there is often a tiny space of frayed wire just beyond where the solder ends and the insulation begins. That can cause a few issues, one of which being a Locomotive stopping. Too much current going through to few strands creates resistive heat. Hence causing said weak solder joint to expand and, motor and lights not getting needed current. Therefore, a stall action...

~Brushes and armatures. Absolutely must be clean. The deposits that gather just from use will stall a motor. Q-tips and naptha. Not isopropyl alcohol. It can and will melt motor winding insulation if over used. ( I learned that here. )

~Another point mentioned was where the wheels contact the electrical pickup wipers/bushings/shoes/etc. Man, that is a prime place for dirt, hairs, and all other forms of shmegma to collect. Get yourself an extra fine grit “flexi-pad” by Flexi File and after cleaning the gunk away, make those wipers shine and while you’re at it, the backs & Treads of the wheels too.

~Beyond that, all the other troubleshooting methods posted are solid advice imo that should be headed. Smart people here giving free advice, gladly. I listen to them all as if they're name is E.F. Hutton. Lol.

G’day
Scott

I have a starter pack transformer , maybe it does not deliver enough power through that tracks , I also have a lot of track so that might be the problem , the problem is starting to occur on my other locomotives after running them for a minute or so ?

 

[MoistyFinch]

I've seen cold solder joints do this. After the device has warmed up an open occurs. After it is allowed to cool a few minutes, the connection closes and the cycle repeats itself. This would explain the stopping at random points on the layout.

If it is in a motor winding it will be nearly impossible to find, but could be on a circuit board somewhere. If you are able to set up a test stand for the locomotive and operate it with the circuit board exposed, this sort of fault can easily be located with an electronics cold spray such as Freon. Mouser or Digi-Key sells this if you have no local source.

I have a starter pack transformer , maybe it does not deliver enough power through that tracks , I also have a lot of track so that might be the problem , the problem is starting to occur on my other locomotives after running them for a minute or so ?