[Lehigh74]

I’m looking for a timing circuit for my streets loop that will interrupt power to the center rail when a car pulls up to the stop sign and completes the circuit on the isolated outer rail. I didn’t even bother looking on-line because I figured someone here has probably already done something like this and knows a good product that I can simply hook up. I’m looking for something that has an adjustable delay of between 2 to 8 seconds and is rated for up to 22 VAC or VDC.

I’m also looking for what type of diode to use to lower voltage on faster cars so they all run at about the same speed. I did a very little bit of on-line research on this, but have no clue if I should use a 1N4001 or 1N4007 or something else entirely. Again, I figure there are folks here that know from experience exactly what to use.

Anyone have recommendations for timing circuit and diodes?

 

[wvgca]

if they draw small amounts of current, a 914 or equivalent might work for you?? they drop 2/3 volt on each one, so you might need a few in a row?? but, they're cheap ..

 

[MichaelE]

Although they do drop voltage somewhat, why use a diode where a resistor should be doing the work?

 

[Millstonemike]

If Streets are AC, I'd use two diodes in parallel is opposite directions. That will drop the volts for both the positive and negative cycle on the AC waveform. One diode will rectify the AC so your only getting one half the wave form.

Here's my solution ... a<$5 on Ali-Express (likely eBay as well). If you want more info, let me know.

 

[Lehigh74]

Thanks wvgca. I might try that one.

MichealE and Mike – I’m trying to copy what Lee Willis does. He offered up a number of free pdf files to MTF members about streets vehicles and one of them used diodes (two in opposite directions) for speed control. I couldn’t find his thread and was thinking about attaching one of the pdfs here, but don’t want to do so without his permission. A resistor is not the way to go. It would slow the car down too much in curves. GRJ also installed some diodes on one of my locos to drop voltage.

 

[gunrunnerjohn]

The back-to-back diodes are the best way to do incremental speed adjustments. Of course, those adjustments have to be for lower speed.

 

[Lehigh74]

The back-to-back diodes are the best way to do incremental speed adjustments. Of course, those adjustments have to be for lower speed.

Do you remember what diode you used on my loco to drop voltage to the smoke unit?

Also wondering if a JW&A 31000 would work for my timing circuit.

 

[Lehigh74]

If Streets are AC, I'd use two diodes in parallel is opposite directions. That will drop the volts for both the positive and negative cycle on the AC waveform. One diode will rectify the AC so your only getting one half the wave form.

Here's my solution ... a<$5 on Ali-Express (likely eBay as well). If you want more info, let me know.

View attachment 514144

I thought that the station stop thing was concerning the diode question. Now that I look at it, I am definitely interested. That looks like exactly what I am after. I'll see if I can find it on eBay or Ali-Express.

Thanks

 

[gunrunnerjohn]

I probably used 1N4003, it's my go-to diode for any application of less than an amp. For motors, I'd probably pick a 3 amp diode, something like the 1N5408.

Here's ten of them for $1.89 shipped, USA seller.

1N5408 Rectifier Diode 3A 1000V (10 Pieces) USA SELLER

 

[Stoshu]

A little more complicated but these work well.... Found this one at amazon. and/or combine it with a photo call activated relay..

 

[Lehigh74]

Looks like the Altronix 6062 requires 12 or 24 VDC input. Not sure how to make it work in my case.

 

[Millstonemike]

Here's an eBay [URL="https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12V-Relay-Module-Adjustable-Delay-Time-Switch-0-10-Second-NE555-Timer-Bo-Z5Y8/123783143644?epid=1193935244&hash=item1cd20ce0dc%3Ag%3AD40AAOSww-dc7ApY&LH_BIN=1"]link[/URL] for the rectifier/regulator module.
and the link for the delay relay module.

The advertised delay is 0 to 10 sec. I tested mine and it goes up to 8 sec.'s. That's pretty long if you actual time it. You can get longer times but you have to replace a SMD cap on the module (if it's an issue, let me know now and I can help with that, I've modified electronics for several members at my other forum). Also, you'll need some type of meter to set the variable regulator to 12 V. If you don't have a meter I will find a fixed 12 V regulator (they cost a bit more, go figure). Lastly, you need a good 14 V accessory post to insure enough voltage for the regulator to put out 12 V.

Normally, I would recommend going with a 5 V regulator and 5 V delay module but there's a design flaw in the 5 volt delay modules. I had to replace a component on my 5 V versions to get them to trip the relay.

Let me ....

 

[Lehigh74]

Thanks Mike. Both links are to the time delay. Here is a link to the rectifier.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-DC-LM31...759651?hash=item3fceb2bbe3:g:DKYAAOSwl41dGdn0

At that price I got 4 of each.

And thanks John. I ordered 30 diodes last night.

 

[Millstonemike]

Thanks Mike. Both links are to the time delay. Here is a link to the rectifier.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-DC-LM31...759651?hash=item3fceb2bbe3:g:DKYAAOSwl41dGdn0

At that price I got 4 of each.

And thanks John. I ordered 30 diodes last night.

Any update on the streets station stop?

 

[Lehigh74]

I haven't done anything on the stop circuit. Or the diode installation in the streets cars. I've been working on other pieces of the puzzle. Building new platforms for the train station in the town that the streets loop runs through and adding a new building. I'll post some pics on another thread.

 

[Cousin Eddie]

I’m looking for a timing circuit for my streets loop that will interrupt power to the center rail when a car pulls up to the stop sign and completes the circuit on the isolated outer rail. I didn’t even bother looking on-line because I figured someone here has probably already done something like this and knows a good product that I can simply hook up. I’m looking for something that has an adjustable delay of between 2 to 8 seconds and is rated for up to 22 VAC or VDC.

I’m also looking for what type of diode to use to lower voltage on faster cars so they all run at about the same speed. I did a very little bit of on-line research on this, but have no clue if I should use a 1N4001 or 1N4007 or something else entirely. Again, I figure there are folks here that know from experience exactly what to use.

Anyone have recommendations for timing circuit and diodes?

View attachment 514124

I use these to stop and start trains uses a photo eye to sense the train and cuts power for a selected time that you can adjust. It will also power something else for that time then go back after the time you set. It looks like an electrical shed. As for as resistors to slow down cars I’m out I got nothing lol. Hope this helps.

 

[Tom_C]

A word of caution about those types of IR detectors. Depending on the situation they may lose their mind... I was experimenting with something similar (z-stuff sensors) and if there is any randomly placed reflective material (in my case fake snow) they flip their wig.

 

[Lehigh74]

Thanks Eddie. I already got the modules that Mike recommended, but the ITAD looks like it might be the way to go. One of Lee’s books makes a point that streets vehicles are too light to make good contact on an isolated outer rail, so infrared is probably better.

How high are the red windows? I’m wondering if they might be too high for a Streets vehicle. If so, I would need to sink the ITAD into the platform.

And thanks for the tip Tom. I’m thinking if they flip out, I can adjust the range or place some non- reflective bushes. And I’ll also look into what Mr. Zander has that could work for this.

 

[Tom_C]

I have some of those z-stuff sensors. PM me your address and I'll send you one.

FWIW I am using azatrax stuff now and they may have a block detector or something similar that might work.

 

[Lehigh74]

After a quick look, it appears I could use a DZ-1070 sensor and I would need a DZ-1008A relay since the 1070 is only good for 25 ma.

I also looked at the Azatrax stuff. A MRD1-V would probably do what I want and I might also need a MRAPR-12v.

Suddenly, I have three choices.