[Retro Engineer]

I am restoring a post war set up, most of the track and switches (6) are toast, I'm definitely staying with the super O, some of the track especially on the trestles is warped and obviously no good, other pieces are rusted ...is there a way to tell if they're saveable, is there anyway if testing them (possibly with an ohmmeter) or such to determine viability??....any input appreciated

 

[T-Man]

Rust can be removed by wire brushing or soaking in vinegar. It depends on how much corrosion you have on the rails. The ties are plastic. If you have a heat gun, the track may flatten out on a level surface. Weight can be used too.
You test them by hooking power and running an engine on them. One good thing is that the center rail will stay isolated with the plastic ties.

Track normally has surface rust. This can be removed. Heavy rust leaves pits and a rough rough ride if on the top of the rail.

 

[Retro Engineer]

Thank you... I'll try the vinegar

 

[sjm9911]

Have any pictures? Normally, a green scotch brite pad or a brass dremel will fix some rust. I never had a good experience with vinegar. The track needs to be dried totally inside and out if going that route. Some here still use super O. Its a grwat looking track but the conection peices are $$$ as are the switches.

 

[Retro Engineer]

I'm soaking now, I think their probably junk.... center looks good but rails are pretty rusty...1960 basket case project..lol

 

[sjm9911]

Yea, not too good. Lol. Save the vonecters and soak those in evaporrust. The track looks way pitted.

 

[Retro Engineer]

Thanks ... pretty much what I thought...good thing this track is pretty plentiful out there

 

[sjm9911]

Take some more pictures of the layout. I see lots of activation buttons and lots of power!

 

[Norton]

Actually only the tops have to be cleaned to be functional. If you want it to look like new thats a different matter. I would use Evapo Rust if I wanted them clean.

Pete

 

[Retro Engineer]

So if the track shows continuity with an ohmmeter does that mean it's good?

 

[Norton]

So if the track shows continuity with an ohmmeter does that mean it's good?

It should work. The center rail is just solid metal, maybe all copper or maybe an alloy. Make sure the tops and ends are clean. Outside rails need the tops plus inner ends clean to assure good contact With the track pins.

Pete

 

[Retro Engineer]

Take some more pictures of the layout. I see lots of activation buttons and lots of power!

Many of those buttons were never connected most operated remote lights and such, I was 8 or 9 years old when my dad and his buddy built this thing, both transformers worked and you could run two trains simultaneously, it looks like they're wired together somehow, I'm trying to replace piece by piece, not going to worry about gates and other ancillary devices for now

 

[Lehigh74]

Assuming you can get the top rail surface clean, you will also need to clean the ID of the outer rails (where the pins go) to get good continuity between sections. I used tube brushes for that with good results on some 80 year old tubular track. See post 12 of this thread. Not sure what size brush you will need.

(2) How Do You Clean Tubular Track Tube ID? | Model Train Forum

Note that the tin plating is most likely gone from the outer rails and any that is left will probably be removed if/when you take abrasives to it. So you will need to keep it in a dry (non-humid) area as bare steel will otherwise rust again.

 

[Retro Engineer]

It should work. The center rail is just solid metal, maybe all copper or maybe an alloy. Make sure the tops and ends are clean. Outside rails need the tops plus inner ends clean to assure good contact With the track pins.

Pete

Thanks Pete, maybe I can save some of it

Assuming you can get the top rail surface clean, you will also need to clean the ID of the outer rails (where the pins go) to get good continuity between sections. I used tube brushes for that with good results on some 80 year old tubular track. See post 12 of this thread. Not sure what size brush you will need.

(2) How Do You Clean Tubular Track Tube ID? | Model Train Forum

Note that the tin plating is most likely gone from the outer rails and any that is left will probably be removed if/when you take abrasives to it. So you will need to keep it in a dry (non-humid) area as bare steel will otherwise rust again.

Thanks so much

 

[sjm9911]

Many of those buttons were never connected most operated remote lights and such, I was 8 or 9 years old when my dad and his buddy built this thing, both transformers worked and you could run two trains simultaneously, it looks like they're wired together somehow, I'm trying to replace piece by piece, not going to worry about gates and other ancillary devices for now

Unfortunately, if they ran off the track, you should figure it out beforehand. Otherwise if you want it running again, you may have to take the track apart. Depends how, and what was hooked up. Running the train in a loop isnt a problem, adding electrical stuff in later could be. All depends on what you want for a final outcome.

 

[sjm9911]

Oh, take some pictures anyway, inquiring minds want to know. Lol.

 

[Retro Engineer]

I will.....thank you

 

[Millstonemike]

I just restored 50 pieces of Super O last December. I used a quart of Evapo-Rust and a quart Quart of 91% isopropyl alcohol in an assembly line process. I bought two elongated plastic tubs at the dollar store and filled each with the liquids. Then I submerged 4 to 6 pieces of track in the Evapo-Rust for half a day, turning them over every now and then. After the Evapo-Rust I put them in the IPA to rinse them while the next batch of pieces sat in the Evapo-Rust. Evapo-Rust specifies a water rinse afterward. But after watching tinplate rust before my eyes after a cleaning and water rinse, I used the IPA to rinse the track to avoid re-rusting while drying. When finished, I ran the used Evapo-Rust through a coffee filter and funnel back into it's bottle. There's really not a lot of rust to use up the Evapo-Rust chemical and I've used it on other rusted parts since. Still have about a pint and a half.

While in the Evapo-Rust bath, I used some small dental brushes to clean inside the ends of the receiving outer rails. It was evident rust was in there from the color of the gunk that came out with the dental brushes. I used a small brass brush to pre-clean especially rusted areas before and during the Evapo-Rust bath. I used the brush to burnish the outer rail pins and the ends of the center copper rail.

The Evapo-Rust will not clean the copper center rail of tarnish. To me, this was desirable as I didn't want a bright center rail. And cleaning the inside of the outer rails really worked as all 50 pieces were in a single loop with only one lock-on powered including 6 isolated rail Super O track straights. There were no other power drops and the entire loop seemed to have a good electrical connection all around. See This Video.

I ordered the Evapo-Rust from Home Depot for delivery to the store. And the IPA came from Walmart. Total ~$15 for both. I have a commercial source for reproduction outer rail pins and center rail clips if you need them. Much better than the offers I saw on eBay. Let me know and I'll post the link. Also, I have bought a dozen reproduction center rail clips at a local train show for $5 as well.

 

[Retro Engineer]

Thanks, excellent idea on the tubes....I was looking around the house for something like that to hold the vinegar when I was cleaning them yesterday

 

[sjm9911]

I just restored 50 pieces of Super O last December. I used a quart of Evapo-Rust and a quart Quart of 91% isopropyl alcohol in an assembly line process. I bought two elongated plastic tubs at the dollar store and filled each with the liquids. Then I submerged 4 to 6 pieces of track in the Evapo-Rust for half a day, turning them over every now and then. After the Evapo-Rust I put them in the IPA to rinse them while the next batch of pieces sat in the Evapo-Rust. Evapo-Rust specifies a water rinse afterward. But after watching tinplate rust before my eyes after a cleaning and water rinse, I used the IPA to rinse the track to avoid re-rusting while drying. When finished, I ran the used Evapo-Rust through a coffee filter and funnel back into it's bottle. There's really not a lot of rust to use up the Evapo-Rust chemical and I've used it on other rusted parts since. Still have about a pint and a half.

While in the Evapo-Rust bath, I used some small dental brushes to clean inside the ends of the receiving outer rails. It was evident rust was in there from the color of the gunk that came out with the dental brushes. I used a small brass brush to pre-clean especially rusted areas before and during the Evapo-Rust bath. I used the brush to burnish the outer rail pins and the ends of the center copper rail.

The Evapo-Rust will not clean the copper center rail of tarnish. To me, this was desirable as I didn't want a bright center rail. And cleaning the inside of the outer rails really worked as all 50 pieces were in a single loop with only one lock-on powered including 6 isolated rail Super O track straights. There were no other power drops and the entire loop seemed to have a good electrical connection all around. See This Video.

I ordered the Evapo-Rust from Home Depot for delivery to the store. And the IPA came from Walmart. Total ~$15 for both. I have a commercial source for reproduction outer rail pins and center rail clips if you need them. Much better than the offers I saw on eBay. Let me know and I'll post the link. Also, I have bought a dozen reproduction center rail clips at a local train show for $5 as well.

Ah, that was my problem mike, how fast they rusted while drying years ago. Also, I have used brass wire pipe cleaner in a drill to do the holes on lots of tracks. And I still sware the electeical conduting jell stuff that prevents rust helps on the pins. No data, but I use it.