Temp layout Phase III
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Hey Matt,
Looks like a nice basement "me" space!
It looks to me like your plywood is actually OSB ... oriented strand board. Think about what/how you intend to finish the surface of this ... paint? grass fibers? etc? If you paint the OSB, you'll still see the wood chip pattern. You might consider putting down a thin sheet (1/4") of MDF on top of the "plywood" ... it's not expensive (probably around $15 at Home Depot), and has a very smooth surface that's easily painted, finished, etc.
Good luck!
TJ
Looks like a nice basement "me" space!
It looks to me like your plywood is actually OSB ... oriented strand board. Think about what/how you intend to finish the surface of this ... paint? grass fibers? etc? If you paint the OSB, you'll still see the wood chip pattern. You might consider putting down a thin sheet (1/4") of MDF on top of the "plywood" ... it's not expensive (probably around $15 at Home Depot), and has a very smooth surface that's easily painted, finished, etc.
Good luck!
TJ
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MDF = Medium Density Fiberboard ... essentially super-fine sawdust pressed together with resin into a very dense and (most importantly) very smooth sheet surface. It cuts and mills nicely ... woodworkers enjoy using it for cabinetry that they know will be painted. It's very dimensionally stable (won't warp, twist with changes in temp and humidity). And, it's cheap.
Downside, though ... not as strong as solid wood or plywood. Doesn't like getting wet.
But for a model train layout, it gives a nice, smooth surface as a "first layer" for a layout.
I suggested 1/4" sheet, which you could lay on top of your OSB. You can also get 1/2" and 3/4" MDF ... the latter is strong (and stiff) enough to support itself over some span.
Now, all of this could be moot if you're thinking building up a 3D layout with foam, hills, tunnels, etc. at some point.
But, hey ... that's the fun of the hobby ... creating something that's just right for you!
Have fun!
TJ
Downside, though ... not as strong as solid wood or plywood. Doesn't like getting wet.
But for a model train layout, it gives a nice, smooth surface as a "first layer" for a layout.
I suggested 1/4" sheet, which you could lay on top of your OSB. You can also get 1/2" and 3/4" MDF ... the latter is strong (and stiff) enough to support itself over some span.
Now, all of this could be moot if you're thinking building up a 3D layout with foam, hills, tunnels, etc. at some point.
But, hey ... that's the fun of the hobby ... creating something that's just right for you!
Have fun!
TJ
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356 Posts
Woodland Scenic makes a pretty nice looking ground cover. You can buy them to fit a 4x5 layout. I am going to put it down and then build over top of it. My play is that after I build over top of it, it will eliminate any need to go back and fill in any bare spots.
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/785-4161
not too expensive and your local train shop probably carries it. Of course, I am about as far as you are Matt, so this isn't proven or anything, just think it might be a fairly easy way to get it done.
Good luck!!!
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/785-4161
not too expensive and your local train shop probably carries it. Of course, I am about as far as you are Matt, so this isn't proven or anything, just think it might be a fairly easy way to get it done.
Good luck!!!
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Brad,
Good tip. You can get sheets that will cover a 4x8 layout, too:
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/785-5121
They do a nice job of making the "grass" look real, and adhering the little particles to the underlying mat. Also, you can remove sections of "grass" by wetting and scraping (check with the specific mfr instructions, though) to make paths for roads, sidewalks, etc.
TJ
Good tip. You can get sheets that will cover a 4x8 layout, too:
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/785-5121
They do a nice job of making the "grass" look real, and adhering the little particles to the underlying mat. Also, you can remove sections of "grass" by wetting and scraping (check with the specific mfr instructions, though) to make paths for roads, sidewalks, etc.
TJ
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356 Posts
haha... my bad. I actually meant to say 4x8, not 4x5. Guess I not only said the wrong thing, but put the wrong link up. thanks
next week is really big... I am going to be building my table. I think that I can get the framing done in one weekend, but could be way off.
next week is really big... I am going to be building my table. I think that I can get the framing done in one weekend, but could be way off.
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I think the grass CAN be glued down, but doesn't have to be ... can be pulled taught & stapled around the underside edges. Again, check with mfr description for specific details.
(Ohh ... and lots of mfrs make stuff like this ... not just Woodland Scenics.)
TJ
(Ohh ... and lots of mfrs make stuff like this ... not just Woodland Scenics.)
TJ
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356 Posts
I think that I am going to run some glue, but my plan was to do exactly what TJ said, and that is to staple it on the underside. I also am going to do this prior to attaching the 4x8 prior to attaching it to the framing.
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as TJ said, many manufacturers make this... Woodland Scenic is the only one that I have seen in action and as I think I mentioned earlier, it is carried in stock at my local train shop.
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If you go the staple route, you might consider stapling the edge of the "grass" through a thin batten (a thin, long piece of wood). This will help even the tension on the grass mat, and help prevent the staples from locally tearing through the mat.
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