Model Train Forum banner

41 - 60 of 130 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
208 Posts
Discussion Starter #41
I plan on painting it in Western Pacific colors which is silver and orange. Looking at Tru-color they show the WP orange but I don't see a specific silver for WP. They do have a silver but I am not sure if it is correct.

Anybody know of the correct silver I can use?

Ed
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
255 Posts
It’s very cool to see the transformation of this engine. I am not sure how much you paid for the engine on eBay but I guarantee you have already doubled your money as is.

I would like to do what you are doing once I get straightened out more. Finding a diamond in the rough and breathing new life in it. Seems like it would be fun one project at a time. Heck someone could actually do this as a flipper type gig. Buy low and put some time and love in it to flip it for double or even triple your money. Especially if you enjoy doing this sort of thing. Having fun and making money? Not a bad gig if you ask me.

Nevertheless you have done a great job on this project. I will be very curious to see the end result.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
208 Posts
Discussion Starter #44
Thanks guy's for the comments.

Mark, I paid $21 for the GP 20 on Ebay. I spend most of my time building RC boats. I needed a diversion from boat building so I started building John Allen's switching puzzle on a 6 foot shelf. So the GP 20 is a perfect project.

I have installed both coupler's on the GP 20. I had to mill the factory draft box off to install the Kadee # 242 gear box and install a # 142 drop down whisker coupler. This also required drilling a hole with a number 50 drill bit and tapping it with a 2-56 tap. The alignment is spot on.

Ed
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
208 Posts
Discussion Starter #45
The GP 20 I bought had a railing on one side only. I discovered the Athearn GP 35 I am using for parts also has brass posts that are exactly like the ones on the brass GP 20. I purchased some .020" inch music wire to redo the railing. It is much stronger than the brass wire.

Ed
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
407 Posts
Really enjoying your thread. I love doing this stuff.

I have a Harbor Freight cabinet sandblaster that is excellent but I found their air brush to be trash as you did.

I have media (aluminum oxide) blasted brass at low pressure and it does a nice job of cleaning out the crevasses but you have to be very careful. I have yet to try soda.

Like your avatar picture!!

Bob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
208 Posts
Discussion Starter #48
Really enjoying your thread. I love doing this stuff.

I have a Harbor Freight cabinet sandblaster that is excellent but I found their air brush to be trash as you did.

I have media (aluminum oxide) blasted brass at low pressure and it does a nice job of cleaning out the crevasses but you have to be very careful. I have yet to try soda.

Like your avatar picture!!

Bob
Hi Bob, I have also used aluminum oxide (240 grit) but found it is a little to aggressive. I have been using pumice made by Paasche called Air Eraser Compound AE-2. The next time I fire up my media blaster I will try the baking soda on the brass.

My avatar is a 1963 split window vette. I owned it for 20 years and restored it back to original. When I retired I sold it. I still miss it but I am glad it is gone. Are you also into metal working or brass engines?

Ed
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
208 Posts
Discussion Starter #49
The two pilots were missing the stanchions and railing. The original stanchions where installed into bump outs. But these were damaged so I had to mill them off and drill .030" holes for the 4 stanchions. The 4 brass stanchions are from the doner Athern GP 35 and the hand rails are .020" music wire. Next is to media blast them and prime them.

Ed
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
407 Posts
I'm looking forward to seeing your final product Ed, bet it will be a charmer.

I haven't ventured into brass.....yet, but I have been looking. I have a friend that bends and solders brass into HO locomotives but I have neither the patience or skill.

Bob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
208 Posts
Discussion Starter #52
The stanchions and railings are installed on both pilots. The pilots are attached to the frame and have been media blasted along with the frame and primed. The shell has been mounted to the frame to make the forward hand railing. I found it difficult to make crisp bends in the railing while on the engine. So I made a railing on the engine, then removed it and glued it to a piece of cardboard and made one to match the template but with nice crisp bends.

Ed
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
208 Posts
Discussion Starter #55
All the stanchions and hand rails are on. I sprayed on a second coat of primer. When the primer is dry it will be ready for paint. I have a new Paasche single action air brush that I need to test and get familiar with first. It has a #1 #3 and #5 needle and I will be using Tru-Color paint.

Ed
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,113 Posts
Ed, you are very talented! Your metal work and milling is really impressive.

I have a tough time working in O scale with plastic but you make it look easy in HO and with metal to boot.

I can’t wait to see the finished project.

Tom
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
208 Posts
Discussion Starter #57
Ed, you are very talented! Your metal work and milling is really impressive.

I have a tough time working in O scale with plastic but you make it look easy in HO and with metal to boot.

I can’t wait to see the finished project.

Tom
Tom, thanks for the nice comment.

This morning I painted the the shell and frame with Tru-Color TCP-077 Silver. I used a Paasche type H single action with a #5 needle. The paint was used straight out of the bottle and sprayed exceptionally nice. I will let it sit for a couple of days then mask off the shell to paint the orange stripe.

Ed
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
208 Posts
Discussion Starter #59
now that looks nice :)
wvgca, Thanks for the reply.

I intended to make the drop down grab irons out of brass. I did not have the correct size and the local supplier did not have what I needed. So I used music wire that was annealed to make it bendable.

Here are some pictures of the processes I used. I measured the width of the holes on the shell then using that measurement I drilled a hole in a piece of steel I had. I inserted the wire in one hole and bent it over the side then placed it in the 2 holes and lightly hammed it down flush. To get the drop down shape I used a piece of thin plastic glued to the vice as a gauge. I rested the grab iron on the plastic and closed the vice then bent the legs flat. The all came out exactly the same.

Ed
 

Attachments

41 - 60 of 130 Posts
Top