[T-Man]

The 1060 motor is a simple plastic motor with no reverse. Parts are cheep and replacing the motor with a reversible is possible. I want to use this on my DC trolley line. So I added a bridge rectifier and made it DC.

What this means is that on DC current when I reverse it the motor will run in reverse too. This is not true with AC.

The first part is pulling off the wheel. My wheel puller is getting tired. I may get a factory model next. Then I disconnected the coil from the lower shoe(center pickup) and the top (outside rail). I grinded a groove on the back side. Added wires to where I removed them and fed all four out of the case. That big hole is suppose to have a magnet in it. One for each axle. The other half of the coil field is on the other half of the motor and is not shown. I will try to get some before placing the wheels back on.

I color coded the sleeves to the bridge rectifier. Red for positive to the coil. Green is ground,and black is the track feed.

Finished. It will sit above the rear trailing wheels near the cab. There is plenty of room there.

 

[T-Man]

paint, don't faint

To continue with the 1060, the not most exciting Scout Engine. I decided to use some acrylic paint and liven it up. I didn't use yellow. I used brick red and a gloss silver. The engine didn't work well and I have to take a second look at it. The best part, it just brushed on and any unwanted dabs just scrapped off.

ANother good practice with magnets is by using a compass I determined the poles and painted N REd and S white. Just to keep them straight.

 

[imatt88]

T-Man,

You sir, are amazing. You could give us classes on Marx trains.

Where did you get that wheel puller? Beats a screwdriver

I've learned a lot about Marx locos just following your posts.

Nice job on the engine shell:thumbsup:

Cheers, Ian

 

[T-Man]

Ian, you can modify a batttery terminal puller. Square off the end and insert a small allen shaft for stiffness in a drilled hole, or buy the Lionel Sevice tool. That tool was bought on ebay but I have found the end to be too soft and mushrooms. HEnce the allen wrench insert idea. THe terminal puller is about 6 to 8 bucks compared to 24 on e bay.

What I know about Marx I posted. I didn't expect a wave of interests. They are a good bargain and can be lots of fun. I just haven't learned the Karma of the eunit How that wire pulls up on the right side of the wedge is beyond me.
SInce the Marx following is small I do not think there are any manuals to be purchased either.

 

[imatt88]

T-Man,

Yeah, that e unit is a mystery all right. All I know is that I sprayed the crap out of my E-7 e unit with WD-40, cleaned what I could, and now it works fine.

I have the body back together, and I'm running the A unit just to stretch its legs.

Who knows how long its been since that Santa Fe A,B set has seen track time

Looking forward to more of your posts:thumbsup:


Cheers, Ian

 

[tjcruiser]

Ian,

Do you think you can post some zoomed-in pics of the Marx e-unit, just so that others (me!) can see what one of those look like?

Thanks!

TJ

 

[imatt88]

TJ,

I can try, but my camera is pretty basic, and doesn't take very good pics.

T-Man actually has better pics of an e unit from one of his locos in another thread.

I believe its the 999 thread...


Cheers, Ian

 

[tjcruiser]

Ian,

Got it ... T-Man has us ALL covered quite nicely!

TJ

 

[T-Man]

I have a problem with the bridge rectifier. They seem small and heat up. I am almost at the point of removing the wheels and taking a second look.

 

[T-Man]

I hav finally given up and reverted the engine back. I tred a number of bridge recitifiers and they all heated up. Recently I have learned the windings in the armature have a reverse wind. Just that fact would explain the poor DC performance. Maybe if I get another old 2034 or 1130 I will try it again.

I made the bar and mounting plate. I will eventually replace them when I find the parts.

I paint up the shell with simple acrylic gloss silver and brick red or was it barn red?

 

[Big Ed]

To continue with the 1060, the not most exciting Scout Engine. I decided to use some acrylic paint and liven it up. I didn't use yellow. I used brick red and a gloss silver. The engine didn't work well and I have to take a second look at it. The best part, it just brushed on and any unwanted dabs just scrapped off.

ANother good practice with magnets is by using a compass I determined the poles and painted N REd and S white. Just to keep them straight.

I hav finally given up and reverted the engine back. I tred a number of bridge recitifiers and they all heated up. Recently I have learned the windings in the armature have a reverse wind. Just that fact would explain the poor DC performance. Maybe if I get another old 2034 or 1130 I will try it again.

I made the bar and mounting plate. I will eventually replace them when I find the parts.

I paint up the shell with simple acrylic gloss silver and brick red or was it barn red?

Brick Red :thumbsup:

 

[gunrunnerjohn]

I can't imagine why your bridges were heating up. I have some 6A bridge rectifiers, I'll bet they'd do just fine.

 

[T-Man]

Brick Red is a good color.

From what I understand the windings are not all one direction. For DC that doesn't work. I used the 6 amp bridge and the performance was poor. It barely worked on the bench never mind the track. I think the other engines will work better. Not everything goes as planned.

 

[servoguy]

T, If you want to run your scout motor on DC, it will run just fine. However, if you reverse the polarity of the DC, the motor will NOT reverse. It is a universal motor, not a permanent magnet motor. If you wanted to modify it so it would reverse when you reverse the DC, you would need to replace the field coil with a permanent magnet.
BB

 

[gunrunnerjohn]

Interesting info, never realized that the DC scout motor didn't reverse. Good to know.

 

[servoguy]

John, What is a DC scout motor? The motors we have been discussing are all universal motors which have a wound armature and wound field. They are series wound which means the armature and field are in series, not parallel. They are called universal motors because they will run on AC or DC. A DC brush type motor has a wound armature and a permanent magnet field. It will not run on AC and will reverse direction if you change the polarity of the DC used to power it. The can motors are DC motors. Some of the cheap engines Lionel built have DC motors in them and cannot be used with most transformers. All of the prewar and post war transformers are AC: Type V, type Z, ZW, KW, VW, 1033, 1032, 1034, etc. As we all know, the reversing of the universal motors is done with an E unit.

Bruce Baker

 

[gunrunnerjohn]

OK, I was confused. I thought you were saying that there was a DC motor in some of the Scout models. I have a couple both with and without the E-Unit wheels, but as you say, they're all A/C motors.

Sorry for the confusion. I did realize the scout wouldn't reverse using DC without the E-Unit. I have actually run them on DC on my bench.