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Discussion Starter #261
Thanks guys! I appreciate it..

Hmmmnnn. I probably should have waited then, because I took some of it off, minutes after I posted the pictures..

But.. Good thing with that chalk is that it's easy to add more. I think the thing that threw me off is the color. It just seems too red to me, like blood colored. I think a darker brown would give the effect and color I need. The main problem with me and painting, weathering, etc, is color combination. Things look off to me, but look normal to others, so I'm not the most confident on my color coordination or combinations.. But, add you folks have done this much longer than me, along with the wife and get great eye, I'll put some back on. It's easy enough to do.

But this is the result. I included my reference picture also, which prompted my thought process..


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Removable weathering

Well, tried a bit more weathering. Didn't turn out how I wanted(too much grime), but at least there was an attempt.. I suppose in the process of learning this, there's going to be wins and losses.. This was a loss in my book.

I think I may try to wet a brush or towel and get some of it off. It's just to pronounced for me.


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MatroxD;

While your weathering doesn't look bad as it is, you can improve it if your not satisfied with it. One of the advantages of weathering with chalks is that it's removable with water, and a single drop of dishwashing liquid like Dawn, Palmolive, or Joy. Like anything else in this hobby, weathering looks better if it's logically placed. Generally the side of a building is likely to weather all over, rather than in only a few places, since the whole wall is subjected to the same sun shine, rain, frost and thaw, etc. This is a generalization, and there are plenty of exceptions. Different materials weather differently. If your model interlocking tower like the one in the prototype photo, has metal window frames set into a concrete, or stucco, wall then the heavy rust effect, concentrated below the windows makes sense. If the window frames were wood, it would be more logical for them to exhibit sun-faded, and possibly chipped, paint. They obviously wouldn't rust. Other weathering is more evenly distributed. Dirt and grime tend to get onto the whole surface, more or less evenly. Areas that collect rainwater, like window sills, might be washed cleaner, with some concentrated grime at the low point where the dirty water settled, and dried. Areas shielded from rain, like the top part of the tower that's protected by the extended roof, would tend to stay dirtier than the lower part of the same wall. Your prototype photo shows plenty of interesting weathering. If you try again to copy what's shown in the photo, you will perhaps be more satisfied with the results. Don't be disappointed with your effort. It's a good one. Whatever makes sense to you will be OK, and with practice, and attention to real world weathering, you can do some outstanding work. I really like how the sun-faded, chipped off, green paint, wood grain, and general grime, effects came out on the little structure in these photos.

regards,

Traction Fan :smilie_daumenpos:

Black River Sta. east side.JPG

Black River Sta. 2.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #263
Thanks traction. Yes, I was not satisfied pretty much because of the picture I was attempting to base it. It looked nothing like it. It looked good, but it was not "prototypical", at least as fast as what I was trying to do. If that makes any sense..

If it were simply a freestyle attempt, then, I would have liked it very much. I will have to try some of your tips. I probably will not be able to get to it for a little bit, but I'm going to try some of the other things add you described. Adding to your tricks mentioned with the chalks, I found that I could apply more of an overall, like on a side, I could use a piece of paper towel to lightly apply a color to a larger area. The chips and peeling is something I have no idea of how to replicate "as of yet". But I think I might be able to reproduce some of the spotted with a sponge and dry apply. I think. I'll have to try it.

I am going to try again on this building, and my goal is, as it had become apparent, if you weather one building, the others then look funny without the weathering. That, and honestly, moreover the locomotives and cars. That is the ultimate objective.

And yes, the building you posted looks good and a great look and inspiration..

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Discussion Starter #264
Well.. Up at 3am.. Thinking about these 2 pesky locomotives I need to send in for repair(they're N, so I am no longer fixing N scale locos..), as my battle with N scale keeps raging.. They have been expensive paperweights four over a year(well the Kato has been over a year).

The Kato is a SDP40F. It simply will not run on the layout. A bit disappointed in this model as it was one of my favorite N scale engines.

Then there is the Atlas GP9(we nicknamed it squeak for obvious reasons). This model, as crazy as it sounds, I had a feeling about, when it was purchased. I really, really wanted the Kato BNSF that the hobby shop also had at the time. I, at that point had never owned a Kato, so I figured atlas was a company that I knew(not to mention, it wasn't a cheap loco, being one of their silver series).. Well.. Bad decision! This locomotive, whined, squealed, squeaked from the time I opened its box, thinking the squeak was a need tip be broken in, until it ground to a halt. Coincidentally, my HO Alco S4 from Atlas does the same exact thing.. In my mind, no more atlas locos..

Anyhow, it took my the longest to trek into the basement for the boxes, and now, it's been 2 months, that the boxes have sat on my laptop waiting for the scanning of receipts, and mailing in...

Soooooo, what wasd the purpose of this post? To try and calm my nerves enough to fall asleep.. Didn't work..

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Discussion Starter #266
Sorry to hear about your problem locos. Hope it works out for you, good luck.
Thanks man. It's just one odd those things that goes with this hobby I guess. I'll get them fixed eventually..

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Discussion Starter #267
I didn't realize it had been that long since I posted on this thread. Well, with the time in isolation, I decided to try out a ballasting tool I printed. It worked extremely well. I think it took maybe 15 minutes to do the whole new addition(previously the yard, and now the cement complex). Definitely made the job I probably dislike the most, almost enjoyable.

Today, I was sitting downstairs and decided to shake a little bit of ground turf in a spot. It ended with the results in the attached pictures. Now, to let it all dry..

I actually installed a few more signals. Things are shaping up pretty good.. Doing a little at a time..


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