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I spy with my little eye a couple places where there could be trouble. The Conveyer Log ramp and Sawmill may be too close to curved track. When a locomotive, particularly a diesel rounds those curves, it may hit the log ramp or sawmill.
Good point. Seems to be some room to move the track back a bit.

Others mentioned grades should be contained along the straight sections leaving the curves level. That seems like prudent advice for the curves cresting behind the log loader.
 

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Discussion Starter · #242 ·
I spy with my little eye a couple places where there could be trouble. The Conveyer Log ramp and Sawmill may be too close to curved track. When a locomotive, particularly a diesel rounds those curves, it may hit the log ramp or sawmill.
I got room , track isnt layed down at all, or really pushed in. Just for ideas and where to put the operating tracks. It would hit where it is. But i can cheat it back like an inch. I wanted them on the outside, but the grades did that in. Unfortunately, i want everything, and tbh dont have the room for it all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #244 ·
Good point. Seems to be some room to move the track back a bit.

Others mentioned grades should be contained along the straight sections leaving the curves level. That seems like prudent advice for the curves cresting behind the log loader.
That one will be trickier. Lol. It will make it. Last layout was downgrade on the curve, and i will cheat that a bit also. Cut a bit out on the platform before the curve, and it should be a bit better. Thats the problem with this, its kinda trial and error, if it doesn't work, or fails, I will just raise up the whole track.
 

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Discussion Starter · #246 ·
Just like being 10 years old. Isn't this hobby great :)
I have so much more stuff for the layout. This is minimal , I think. Next problem is there are a ton of ucs tracks. Lol. It will work, I hope. Lots of wires. The switching between tracks may not make it. I tried, and maybe have one area from outside to middle loop.

Next idea, is how to do the tunnels, and the wall behind the log loader, originally was going to be mountain, now maybe going with just concrete. Then retaining walls then mountain/rocks around the tunnel. May use spray foam to speed it up. Not ideal, but if I do ot right can be good.
 

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View attachment 581169
Kinda like this concreate. It was build in like 1902 or something like that. So , maybe? Not my pic, ignore the fire truck.
Concrete may not be easier than mountains. Seems to be more precise modeling. I think the trick to mountains is the final shaping and, more importantly, the painting. Seems good for foam. And paint can be applied many times until you're satisfied. Search "Making O-Scale Mountain Scenery" on Youtube. Lots of hits, lots of techniques, lots of options ... in your spare time when you need a break from driving spikes into the ties :)

Familiar with the Newark Bears?
 

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Discussion Starter · #250 ·
Yup, used to go see them before the bulldozed the place mike. Was only a few stops down the train line. Maybe 3. For the concreate, I was going to use concreate. Im better at building then painting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #251 ·
So , portals are done. Sort of, just need to tool up the spray foam when it dries. Then paint it, then make it into something that dosen't look alien.
Font Gas Rectangle Natural material Fashion accessory
 

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Discussion Starter · #252 ·
Picked this up at the LHS for 10$. I was happy as it matched the one I had, they said they thought it was marx, but I knew better. Its sister bridge without the light is marked, and its cobler. So, good day today. And I cut the grass.........
Automotive tire Mode of transport Vehicle Track Rolling
Wood Girder bridge Truss bridge Bridge Engineering
Wood Font Motor vehicle Metal Helmet
 

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Discussion Starter · #254 ·
Ok so i need bridge peirs. Was goint to by something and cut to fit or use a tressal set. But then I said lets make them. So, i tried this idea out. I think its not bad. Remember this is a fast trial, and not a finished peir. The finished ones will be bigger and have a flattened bottem. So here we go.
Wood burner pen thing. And wood. And paint. Paint first and then burn in the lines of the stone. This one I burned first , then painted then burned again. Fron a distance its good, up close , you can see the lines where I wasn't able to follow them. What do you think?
Wood Rectangle Grey Automotive tire Road surface
Rectangle Grey Road surface Asphalt Composite material
Wood Flooring Rectangle Gas Tints and shades
 

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Before you try to burn it out, score in some guide lines to follow with the burner pen. Otherwise the pen will move around.
And like Mike said use a straight edge of a square to follow while you burn.
 
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It might be easier 5o used foam core board laminated onto a wood core.
I’ve seen people build structures a similar way, carving all sorts of patterns into the foam, from rough stone, to stacked slate retaining walls, to unique art deco brick work.
You do have to keep pieces submerged for 24 hours in order to remove the paper first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #259 ·
Im not that creative , lol. The foam board is probably better, but I will give this wood thing another go. We will see , results if I ever get out of work. I need to try the blades also, maybe a finer line, and yea, the above picture is just freehand after 0 sleep. I eill use a tri square, and maybe reading glasses to see what Im doing. If its a epic fail, im out nothing as its scrap in the garage. I have some time as my other bridge is in the mail, and some other stuff I may use for the cement wall.
 

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Im not that creative , lol. The foam board is probably better, but I will give this wood thing another go. We will see , results if I ever get out of work. I need to try the blades also, maybe a finer line, and yea, the above picture is just freehand after 0 sleep. I eill use a tri square, and maybe reading glasses to see what Im doing. If its a epic fail, im out nothing as its scrap in the garage. I have some time as my other bridge is in the mail, and some other stuff I may use for the cement wall.
I have a few pairs of reading glasses that are much higher values than I need. I use them for detailed work - easy magnifiers.
 
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