Thinking about a rebuild, na doing it!
281 - 300 of 329 Posts
Lol, yup , the dreaded water meter. All good, the table wheels nicely. So, I can move it if needed. Thats the one fron earlier in this thread I think. It may or may not make it in the final town. After the scenery dries, I can start laying the out side loops. Should be fun. And , I may have a surpise for T man and his sidding idea under the town. Stay tuned!
Ok , so mountians need to dry a bit more. So, my next idea....lol. all ideas, and no results. Baised on T man saying I vould get a spur under the town, I may have room for 2 072 switches and another line. If I had vommand controll or more room I wanted to do 2 opposing trains , parking one while the other made the loop, then the next one starting. I can do this manually, but it would ve harder as I would need lights and signals to tell me whats where under the town. So this idea is scrapped. What I may do , os run 2 trains the same direction. So one enters the tunnel, and stops on one track and the other train starts and comes out the other side. I need to work out the details for automatic switching. So , I am toying with some insulated tracks. When one train hits the sidding it stops on a non powered track. When the next train pulls in, it powers that track starting it off. Then the train that pulls in hits it non powered onsulated track stoping it. I may use the switches to power the track, or a seprate insulated track at the beginning of each line. Ill play with it this week. Just can not remember stopping distances and how the switches would power the track. It can ve done old school, and i will try it. depending on the room. Unfortunately, I only have one set of switches, so this will cut out the switching between tracks untill I find more cheap 072 switches.
Quick crude drawing. Lol. Train a hits insulated track section 3, and powers both ITS1, and ITS2. Train B leaves the tunnel and uses the auto derailment feature on switch 2 ( S2). This controlls S1 and rotates the tracks from front to back. Wash rinse and repeat.
![Rectangle Slope Font Parallel Pattern]()
Joined
·
4,302 Posts
It is very simple as is. Much will depend on the train(s)'s length and speed(s).
You may want to add a twin isolated outside rail just after ITS3 to stop that oncoming train. And add a single isolate rail after S2 (connected to that twin isolated rail) to start the oncoming train after the second train has cleared the tunnel/bridge.
You may want to add a twin isolated outside rail just after ITS3 to stop that oncoming train. And add a single isolate rail after S2 (connected to that twin isolated rail) to start the oncoming train after the second train has cleared the tunnel/bridge.
Yup, but I dont need to do it on both tracks, the same thing can be done on one track. No need for the extra wires. And if I can get both tracks in there , I could run one train and bypass the stop tracks. In the other direction of course.
Mountains tunnel things are still drying, lol. So , I am waiting. Next step is to lay the outer loop and glue down the town fence. The sidewalk on the fence side has been scrapped also I think. I forgot my street lights need some realestate also. So, outer loop, and then the town. Then the middle loop. Do some scenery, and finally get to the inner loop with all the acessories. I need to figure out what i am putting in the outer loops so I can add the insulated tracks, and or USC tracks. Problem is , I have too many little things and forgot to place them before building. I left out the signals and gates and such. Ill know more this week.
Joined
·
15 Posts
Keep chugging away. As you know, taking a week off turns into more weeks off. I am not going to let that happen.
Ok fence is glued down , and the lights are in. I drilled them and used leds as the wires were shot. Just easier. They flicker a bit, but they are gaslights. Outer track this week or week end, then the town. Then maybe some scenery, to get an idea of what it will look like.
![Wood Gas Building Brickwork Brick]()
And just realized, that of my 2 glue guns, they both suck. One is hi low temp, and is always on like a low temp ,making it hard to advance the glue stick in the gun. The other one has only one setting, lava. The glue comes out bubbling and smoking, and while I cant conferm it, its the same tempature as lava. Both are arrow glue guns. So be careful out there.
Joined
·
4,302 Posts
They flicker because the LEDs are diodes. They are cutting have the 60 HZ AC sine wave. If you want to correct that I suggest fronting all the lamps' feed with a single AC-DC voltage regulator (i.e., one regulator will feed all the lamps - a couple of bucks). You can adjust the brightness with the regulator's on board trim resistor But ... you'll have to be cognizant of polarity between the regulator and the liaps.. Reverse polarity won't damage the LEDs but they won't light so trial and error is okay to get the connections right.
Joined
·
4,302 Posts
Yeah, realistic for gas lamps. On my holiday Santa layout, The LEDs in the tower lighting had to be fronted by a regulator. Santa's loading station keeping up with modern times ...
I figure they will bother me about the time I'm mostly finished, easy enough to add it in afterwards, or rip everything out! Lol. Right now , just happy to have something working. Lower outside track next. Need to make some insulated tracks, or find where I mixed them into the regular track.
Joined
·
4,302 Posts
They make flickering LEDs to simulate candle light
Why would I make it easy on myself. Tbh, with the globe off it looks constant. It may be the way they cast the globe, heavy on one side or with pigment in it. Or it could just be dirt. Lol. I have the outside rail track temped in, now just need to cut my fast road bed , and see what I want on the outside rail. I may need your help mike, electrical stuff i can do , as long as its 1950s. I may want to make some of the stuff work with modren electronics. Like a wig wag. I van wire it and cut track or use the brass overlay method. But , i think modren is better for that.
Joined
·
642 Posts
I am not thrilled with Arrow glue guns. I purchased one a couple months ago. In a word, it SUCKS. The glue constantly drips from the nozzle while I have the gun sitting.
I have had one of these for many years and it still performs perfectly.
I purchased the Arrow because the other gun is made in China. So much for brand name products. Arrow should stick to what they know best, staple guns.
Joined
·
4,302 Posts
You on a boat? I'm 20 minutes West of the Atlantic
281 - 300 of 329 Posts
Join the discussion
