This was a great reading your progress! Great work and I love the idea of using what you have to make it work. As I am doing the same now.
Doors are great - they take track nails really well - the only issue is that you can't run wires inside because of the cardboard honeycomb within.Thank you for the suggestion of the door. That would be
bang on perfect: it's light and the bracing is neatly
tucked inside and will strongly resist sagging and warping.
The soft wood veneer will greatly facilitate fastening the track down. Now I can hardly wait to make a trip to a lumber salvage
I ordered up some 15" Atlas curves, just to make my life
a little simpler. On the trolley layout, with its nine inch radii,
it was a lot of trial and error to get it to set up. Twenty years
later, when setting up for an exhibition, I was horrified that the tension pried up a joined section within the curve, causing the trolley to derail every lap. No amount of bending or pushing or super glue would get it to sit down reliably.
Minutes to spare, I snatched a small truck, and super glued it just to the edge of the rail, so that every time the trolley hit the bad joiner, the little truck ricocheted it back onto the rails in such a manner as to be unnoticeable. I can be brilliant when I have to.
I've acquired a quantity of 12x12" styrofoam packing slabs, about 1.5 inches thick. This would provide the base for scenic elevations. However, if a small timber trestle were to be worked in, then it would be necessary to affix the track upon the styrofoam.
People do this all the time, but a lot of glues, even
Elmer's white glue, dissolves styrofoam rapidly (not my first attempt using styrofoam base, and never got it right). Anyone recommend a suitable fixative?
As to my presumed experience, hah, I have much of that, but
not the rigorous attention to detail that you have. I fail to recollect anyone having done wet rail, either.
I have a couple of large, wide-mouthed plastic jars from pickled eggs. Add a dollop of JC and then thin to taste. It keeps well in the jar and you can even have more than one of different consistencies. You can also add some latex paint and fine sand. I did this on the 'high plains' section of my layout, and also on the grassy knoll.Joint compound. Will add that to my shopping list! As to wiring, one something this size a couple of drop wires affixed to the bottom is all that is needed. :smilie_daumenpos:
Still do not have a good shot of the overall, but here are some close-ups:Wow! I've always found small layouts intriguing, and this is one of the very best I've seen. Amazing what you've done using low end materials. I've been wanting to do a small operational diorama sized layout for a while now, and this one sets the bench mark. The water logged siding is an effect I've not seen before, and you pulled it off perfectly. If you would, please post an updated picture of the entire layout, to date. You did one about midway in all these remarkable posts, and it would be nice to get a step back and see where it is now.
LOL, thanks. Yes, cut the JC with water. You can cut it very slightly all the way through pancake batter down to paint consistency or even a wash. In this thread I previously described how I found a 5 gallon bucket in the dumpster where construction was being done. It had some JC still in it. I added water to that to keep it wet in the bucket, and decanted some into plastic jars. Each jar has a different viscosity and some is colored with latex paint. Coloring helps because if you ever get a little scratch or something the layout does not poke through white.Love that work car. Mmm, the switch machine...perhaps a coating of your sand mixture, leaving the rounded servo part protuding?
Water effects look very squishy and stagnant. Speaking of stagnant, who in the world eats pickled eggs??? Or that many??? Only time I saw them consumed was on some Paul Newman film where he is a down and out attorney eating them with shots of whiskey... for breakfast.
Thanks for the tip on adding sand to the JC, that will be perfect for what I have in mind. I assume the dilutent is water?
You mean by the switch machine and stagnant water? The original track plan was different - see earlier in this thread - and one day I ripped it up and swapped the switches around. That is where the original track was cut into the cardboard deck.Sounds good. What happened to the rail to the left of the cut?
Hi my friend:Your great micro layout is spurring me on to make my own attempt, posted under Layout Design. I got that hollow core door, which took me on an interesting side trip to a location called "Harte's Mill Crossing," in El Paso, which I intend to model for effect.
I don't know why I never thought of using a hollow core door, that has been around a while, and it is the perfect base board: rigid and light.
I examined Joint Compound, and it has a ketone base, which to my understanding is a perfect solute for Styrofoam, so I didn't use it, but you did? A Google search turned up Gorilla Glue, which works fine, but doesn't have the thin property of JC that used to such good advantage to combine "wetness" and soil.
I am unfamiliar with Modge Podge. This is good for water effects?
See my reply in your thread. I believe we might have a confusion regarding the joint compound. What I am using is commonly called spackle, and it is water-based. I believe the JC you have is for cleaning PVC pipes before gluing. That for sure is solvent-based and not surprised that it eats styrofoam.Got me a little bottle of JC tonight. Going to put a dab on some scrap Styrofoam and see what happens...