[hjstr6]

I am currently restoring this AF 322 s i t New York Central. I have given the boiler a bath and light polishing. It has a lot of Knicks and scratches. Not sure well that should just coat it will CRC 626 and call it a day or bead blast it and repaint. Any thoughts?

 

[AmFlyer]

If that were mine and it was a good running engine for use on a layout I would repaint it. You have equipment and the experience to make it look perfect, so why not do that and then run it. The 322 is a relatively common engine so there is no collector value in its current condition.

 

[AmFlyerFan]

I've seen how well some of the repaints turned out. I'd do it too. One of my 21085's could use a respray down the road; a project for later..

 

[mopac]

Just the fact that you asked means you are not real happy with it the way it is.
Looks like you have another project. I am waiting this minute for Fed EX to drop
a 322 for me today. Tracking says it will be delivered today. We shall see. I am
hoping mine just needs a good bath. It has been a long trip for this loco. First it
was to be delivered thurs. Then switched to fri. Then to sat. Now sun. It has taken
4 days to get from Kansas City to St Louis. 300 miles and a 6 hour drive. It started
out in California. Yes, I am getting ansy. We are in a mess with this virus. Nothing
working.

 

[mopac]

I don't know that I would strip it down all the way. Much of that paint is fine. Hand sand the scrapes
and nicks and shoot it. Might work.

 

[flyernut]

Paint it..

 

[MichaelE]

Yep, paint it. You've already got it stripped down. I wouldn't waste that.

 

[hjstr6]

Thanks for the advice. I put so much work into it I might as well paint it. Should I use a satin finish or a matte finish.

 

[AmFlyer]

I would use the matte finish. several reasons. Most original Hudsons were not shiny and you will be relettering it, so it might be good to seal everything with a clear coat. It should be easier to select the perfect clear coat mix to get the right amount of low gloss to suit the final look you want. But if the matte looks right you can just leave it.

 

[flyernut]

I've used a satin finish on all my restorations.Semi-gloss is too glossy, and flat black is too flat. Be careful with the clear coat. I used a brush on clear coat over my dry rub transfer, and it ran the white ink, destroying the transfer and costing me money.t

 

[AmFlyer]

Good to know about the dry rub transfers.

 

[hjstr6]

I've used a satin finish on all my restorations.Semi-gloss is too glossy, and flat black is too flat. Be careful with the clear coat. I used a brush on clear coat over my dry rub transfer, and it ran the white ink, destroying the transfer and costing me money.t

I've always used Testors Dull Coat over my transfers. Works great.

 

[cramden]

Agree with the others, paint it. Trying to sand and touch up won't give you the results you'll get with a complete repaint and lettering. IMO.

 

[AFGP9]

Like most others have said, paint it. I like the matte finish. My 322 that I have had for years, never repainted, has a dull matte factory finish. I too have used Testors Dull Coat a lot. If I am weathering anything in chalk, Dull Coat is always applied after I wait a couple of days to see if I like the look. You can always take off the chalk but not after spraying the Dull Coat. Some times after I think I am satisfied with the look and sprayed the Dull Coat I may go back and add more weathering over the Dull Coat then spray yet again. I am a big chalk advocate. I have only renumbered 2 engines using the dry transfer and sprayed the Dull Coat over them with great results.

Kenny

 

[hjstr6]

Well I decided to paint it. First I bead blasted it.

Then two coats of krylon matte black.

Came out pretty nice. Thanks for all your comments I'm glad I made the right choice.

 

[mopac]

Looks really nice. You made the right choice.

LOL, now you know, when in doubt, paint.

 

[AFGP9]

That shell and tender turned out very nice. As mopac said, when in doubt, paint!

Kenny