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train not running
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I kinda think it would be the pick ups on the loco if the track is clean. Then again it could be a track issue with a bad connection. The possibility could be endless with out a bit more info.
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its only on the track that it starts and stops, when we put power directly to the wheels, it runs fine. also I couldnt find any brands on the trains, they are all pretty old. maybe the motor just isnt strong enough anymore, as it would go a lot faster before. I dont think the trains are the same brand but im not sure.
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This tells me that either it's still a track continuity problem, maybe at one or more joiners, or it's internal to the loco, but specific to being right side up and weight on the drivers. So, a wiper separates, a solder opens, a wire moves and breaks inside the insulation, a board mounting permits movement, a gear tower cap is not on properly....something is wrong internally that will either require a repair, replacement, or you opening it up and setting it back on the rails and seeing what gives and what is amiss.
Since the other trains run 'fine' that sorta points to this
loco...it's losing electrical contact somewhere.
Does the light go out when the train stops on it's own?
You say it runs fine when you touch wheels with wire off
the track...but are all of the wheels picking up power?
For smooth running all wheels should be feeding
power to the motor.
I would suggest that you remove the shell and check
all wiring. Some locos have no wires but use a split
frame system to convey the power. This depends on
spring pressure against the two frames for smooth
power. Could this loco use that system?
Don
loco...it's losing electrical contact somewhere.
Does the light go out when the train stops on it's own?
You say it runs fine when you touch wheels with wire off
the track...but are all of the wheels picking up power?
For smooth running all wheels should be feeding
power to the motor.
I would suggest that you remove the shell and check
all wiring. Some locos have no wires but use a split
frame system to convey the power. This depends on
spring pressure against the two frames for smooth
power. Could this loco use that system?
Don
Is this the version with the drive in the tender? If so I never could get mine to run decent when new years ago, think some of the problems were the fact that the drive was poorly designed and the loco was so light that power pickup was unreliable. I disconnected the puffer smoke mechanism and added some weight and that helped electrical pickup but still ran so poorly I sold it ten years ago.
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I've got two of those tender-drive locos and neither runs 100% satisfactorily. If it runs and stops it is probably a loose wire, but if you haven't cleaned the motor and gears and regreased I'd start there. While you've got it apart check the traction tires, they usually need replacing on old Tycos.
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It does have the motor in the back, and the light does go out when it stops. i dont think all the wheels pick up power (especially at the front) .we took it apart and greased the motor and gears. we'll try adding some weight and see if it's just too light to pick up power. I said I thought it was the track because we took it in to get looked at and it ran fine on the track there.
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It could've been the track but now that I think about it, nothing changed with the track and it used run a lot smoother. I had a random thought while reading a model railroading book that it might run better if I somehow attached a flywheel to it. not sure if that would help or just make it worse.
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721 Posts
The Tyco chattanooga series is probably the worst loco they ever made. I had two. One died on the track when its magic smoke left the tender. The other got so miserable, it could barely run in reverse to push a single track cleaning car.
Point is; other than tinkering with it for fun and the learning experience, I wouldn't invest any money into it. Let it become a “yard queen”.
Point is; other than tinkering with it for fun and the learning experience, I wouldn't invest any money into it. Let it become a “yard queen”.
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216 Posts
Hey @Tyler,
A couple of things you might consider looking into. As the motor is in the tender in the 2-8-0 and 0-8-0, the pickups are split between the engine and the tender. The outer wheels of the tender pick up power as the the wheels of the locomotive.
1. Check the wires coming the locomotive (I believe it is the black one) and
2. Check the wires from the pickup wheels (the outer ones) of the tender.
Make sure the connections are good there.
I exercise a lot of caution when greasing motors as too much grease is really detrimental.
A couple of things you might consider looking into. As the motor is in the tender in the 2-8-0 and 0-8-0, the pickups are split between the engine and the tender. The outer wheels of the tender pick up power as the the wheels of the locomotive.
1. Check the wires coming the locomotive (I believe it is the black one) and
2. Check the wires from the pickup wheels (the outer ones) of the tender.
Make sure the connections are good there.
I exercise a lot of caution when greasing motors as too much grease is really detrimental.
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I think that's your best bet. The odds of you getting it running acceptably are pretty low. You have to weigh that against the time, effort, and money you're likely to spend trying.
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