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Discussion Starter #1
I finally finished my lift out the way I dreamed it would work. Before the reconstruction the lift out had to be nudged a bit to get things centered. I got tired of that so yesterday I added some needed locking supports so when I drop it in the tracks are in perfect alignment. It takes about 5 seconds to accomplish this. I also added some spring loaded electrical contacts. It works like a charm now. I made up a 80 car train to test it out and it worked perfectly. Click on the video below.
George


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Hmmm, I had not thought about spring loaded contacts. Alignment, dirt dust, and corrosion will be thinks to keep an eye on.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Spence. Dennis It's a very simple wiring setup. I took a ball point pen spring cut it and half and dropped them in 2 the holes I drilled to keep the spring steel pressure on the 2 thumb screws of the lift out bridge. I can't see any dirt build up there in any case if there is I'll just brush it off when the bridge is removed.
George
 

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wow awesome.. ive been trying to figure out how to make my setup work as I have the same issue.. a door in the way.. but this is something I am going to have to check out.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks Reggzie. Yes HO. When I first designed the layout I had a lift gate there. It worked OK but the upper deck being in the way was always a problem so I decided to replace it with a lift out. I decided to finally make it fool prove last week and added all the locking supports. You have to cut everything accurately. Nothing can move not even 1/8 of an inch. I improved the electrical contacts by added the springs to maintain pressure on the gate contacts.

George
 

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Here's a thought for the track.
I may have to build a draw bridge to test my skills.
How precise can I actually build:confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Looks good Dennis. I didn't think about doing that. I laid the track as if there were no lift out and then cut it with Dremel's new larger self locking cut off disks. I guess I could have used your method. It works fine the way I cut it so it's staying that way. I would practice a few times before making the final cut in the way you suggested though.
George
 

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You could always scrounge some contacts from a relay, but I think your choice will work fine. Nice big contact area and easy to clean when necessary. Sometimes relay contacts don't work too well without a "self cleaning" current present when breaking the connection, something you should not have when you remove the bridge! Stick with what you have! Its simple and easy to maintain!
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
I think everyone is misunderstanding how my electrical pickups work. There not a relay. Their a couple of screws with wires attached. Anyway I wasn't doing much of anything today so I decided to remove the contacts, even though they work perfectly, and replace them with another idea. So I went down to Ace Hardware bought a few Furniture bolts and some springs and the below photos show how it all worked out.
George

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Discussion Starter #13
I thought your original contacts were just fine.
They were fine. I just thought my new idea would look better when the gate is out and I guess I wanted to try out this brain storm. I think this is why I got in to model railroading in the first place. Coming up with ideas and seeing if they work or not. In this case both worked. I won't be changing it again. Anyone planning on using this idea you have to rough up the bolts finish to solder on the pickups wires. I hit it with a torch to make sure it adhered. You don't need to do any soldering on the bridge side. The bolt screwed into the wood is enough to make contact with the wires.

George
 
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