[T-Man]

As I have said before, by answering your questions I learn things too. Ed had asuggestion I wanted show along with others.
The clip on can be in the way and Ed's soltion was simply to add a strip of metal into the slit undr the rail. You could hide it but I got lazy and made them long for access at track side.

Here is a link for using finish nails to replace pins for track.

 

[T-Man]

Crossing Gate Track mod

This will show you how I isolated a track section to operate a flashing signal light. The light has three connections A ground and a feed to each light. The trick is to have a small section isolated to ground out each light so the timing appears as flashing.


The second picture shows the front wheel making contact just as the rer wheel leaves.

Insulating pins hold it together, barely. The track marked out before cutting.

I added a tie in the center for support, and epoxied the underside.

I did have have trouble with the connections isolating. I think my epoxy was conducting since it wasn't totally dry. I kept separing joints until I was sure both were isolated.

 

[Big Ed]

Did you use an old tin can?

You could just stick it underneath and solder a wire on to the tab.
Then you wouldn't see it.

 

[T-Man]

I saved that for you.

 

[Reckers]

Too late...I really wanted that tin can, too! Hey, T-Man, the cutting you did on the rails---have you ever considered doing that to alter the curve on a piece of track?

 

[T-Man]

No.




But if you cut the flats at intervals than definitely YES!
You will need a bunch of scrap track. Since a curve is made of three different lengths. You will be altering the lengths. So using outside lengths would be best, then trim to mate up. I would alternate the cuts from side to side to keep strength.

I wanted to add pictures of the 153c contact the Lock on and pins.

 

[T-Man]

Reckers, you must be psychic. You can make your own track. Talk about real ties. The bridge is interesting too. Here is a discussion on a Popular Mechanix's article in 1931. from a CTT article.

 

[T-Man]

Track Inspection

By no means I was the first to use nails. This was in my latest purchase.
The second one has a missing insulator.

The rail popped out here and the last one has an insulated outer rail for track detection.

Considering the age they had very few dents and bends and most of the original pins.

 

[Big Ed]

This will show you how I isolated a track section to operate a flashing signal light. The light has three connections A ground and a feed to each light. The trick is to have a small section isolated to ground out each light so the timing appears as flashing.


The second picture shows the front wheel making contact just as the rer wheel leaves.

Insulating pins hold it together, barely. The track marked out before cutting.

I added a tie in the center for support, and epoxied the underside.

I did have have trouble with the connections isolating. I think my epoxy was conducting since it wasn't totally dry. I kept separing joints until I was sure both were isolated.

Hey T man when you cut the track to make it blink why did you do that?
Because it was on the curve? A 154c-1 contact connector would have worked. No?

 

[Reckers]

Reckers, you must be psychic. You can make your own track. Talk about real ties. The bridge is interesting too. Here is a discussion on a Popular Mechanix's article in 1931. from a CTT article.

T, I just found this message today----missed it in the first posting, so I must have been busy! I'll read the article, and thanks!

 

[T-Man]

Hey T man when you cut the track to make it blink why did you do that?
Because it was on the curve? A 154c-1 contact connector would have worked. No?

I don't have many of the contacts so I tried the track. Most of my straight is 3 foot sections so the curve was obvious.

 

[Big Ed]

I don't have many of the contacts so I tried the track. Most of my straight is 3 foot sections so the curve was obvious.

How did you think of the idea? Did you see another cut like that?

A very Ingenious idea.:thumbsup:

 

[T-Man]

A lot of manuals etc talk about track isolation. Ctt had one article on just using that for the crossing signal. I added epoxy for support.

The curves are natural for lights. That's where I always derail.

The original article just had one section isolated. It was just a matter of spacing the truck to cross blink.

I did use the can jam trick to the internal rails for contacts.

 

[Reckers]

"Can Jam"....now there's a term worth remembering. *L*

 

[servoguy]

You can change the radius of O-27 track by bending the rails. What I did some years ago was open up the clips of the center tie and the tie at the end without pins. I opened up the clips for the center rail and inside rail only. Then I straightened out the rails to the curve I wanted. Then I put the rails back in the clips and crimped the clips by putting a piece of wood that fit inside the tie vertically in the vise. I used a screwdriver and hammer to recrimp the tie clips. I then trimmed the open ends of the rails to make them all the same length. I don't know if you can do this with O-31 track. The rails are much stiffer than the O-27 track. Using 3 sections to make a 90 deg curve would result in O-40.5 and 4 sections would result in O-54. It is a bit of work but I found it to be somewhat fun to make wider radius O-27 track in the era when none was available except for the O-34 from Marx.
BB

 

[T-Man]

I would like someone to try that with fast track!

O gage being stronger it is also a straighter curve to work with. Interesting idea since there is plenty of track around.:thumbsup::thumbsup:

 

[servoguy]

At the time I did this, there were no O-27 switches available with anything but O-27 diameter. So even though I could make the curved track, I couldn't make switches to go with it. Actually, I did make a couple of O-31 manual switches in the same time frame (35-45 years ago), and I did make an O-27 Y switch, but I lost interest for a number of years and never had a place for a "permanent" layout.
BB

 

[T-Man]

12 gage copper wire

Just an update, I got lazy searching for some track pins and decided to try some copper house wire. 12 gage solid wire, fits O gage track nicely. I soldered them in too.

I am making a test board with a UCS track on it. Since the track has no holes I am using two ties on each end with small track extensions to hold it down. The wire is used as pins.

I will post that a little later.

 

[gunrunnerjohn]

With Fastrack, you can just cut the rails if you leave enough space for at least one of the tab sets that holds it to the base. It's very common to slice the rails for insulated sections.

 

[sjm9911]

Thanks T-man, Intresting read. I like how you did the track for the wig wag lights. I wish I saw this sooner. I did not think of doing that and having two sections of track, in my opinion, wouldn't have a good wig wag effect. Too long of a run. Instead, I just went with two red bulbs in mine as a stop signal as the train passes by. Now I might have to re do it!