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underside pics
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Mantua All Right
Need a little auto focus? The first picture will do nicely.
Ok next. I do not see corrosion. The shell got the worst. Now, that white gear, you see is the main drive from the motor. All those rods actually supply power to the other three axles. A dremel with a wire brush will clean them up.Now the first picture, just outside the left frame is the two screws holding the cab. TO the right under the small front wheel axle is the screw that holds the shell. Remove those and the shell will come off. Then we can see the motor.
Now for electrical theory. You have two rails. The wheels to the loco are insulated from the track except to one side. ANy axles removed have to go in the same way. The tender is the same but the trucks pickup the charge from the other side of the track. Then the wire goes to the motor and ground out through the frame.So the tender trucks need to be pointing correctly. If not you get a shortbecause you are connecting both sides of the track. Can you look at the train and see which side is used by the tender and the loco?
I modified your picture. I couldn't access your photobucket so I copied it and uploaded to my photobucket.
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This is the tool to remove the rod nut.
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I would like to know how much train stuff can a SAHM do!! Keep it up!
Need a little auto focus? The first picture will do nicely.
Ok next. I do not see corrosion. The shell got the worst. Now, that white gear, you see is the main drive from the motor. All those rods actually supply power to the other three axles. A dremel with a wire brush will clean them up.Now the first picture, just outside the left frame is the two screws holding the cab. TO the right under the small front wheel axle is the screw that holds the shell. Remove those and the shell will come off. Then we can see the motor.
Now for electrical theory. You have two rails. The wheels to the loco are insulated from the track except to one side. ANy axles removed have to go in the same way. The tender is the same but the trucks pickup the charge from the other side of the track. Then the wire goes to the motor and ground out through the frame.So the tender trucks need to be pointing correctly. If not you get a shortbecause you are connecting both sides of the track. Can you look at the train and see which side is used by the tender and the loco?
I modified your picture. I couldn't access your photobucket so I copied it and uploaded to my photobucket.
This is the tool to remove the rod nut.
I would like to know how much train stuff can a SAHM do!! Keep it up!
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Ya, Um, I removed those pics..LOL! 
Thank you ..Now lets see what I can do. Wish me luck~
Thank you ..Now lets see what I can do. Wish me luck~
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12,471 Posts
update
The front screw is located down the smokestack.
It has been a while since I have worked on one. Forgive me.
Be glad I do not work for a explosive disposal squad. LOL:laugh:
Leave the bottom screw in it will remove the steamchest and free up the rod ends.
The front screw is located down the smokestack.
It has been a while since I have worked on one. Forgive me.
Be glad I do not work for a explosive disposal squad. LOL:laugh:
Leave the bottom screw in it will remove the steamchest and free up the rod ends.
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To get this back on topic.
Okay Tia, wating to hear from you. I think the guys got the cats out of their system. We agreed to stop the corrosion. I gave more specifics about the Mikado in another thread. We have great pictures. You have ebay and yardbird trains for reference.
The 4-6-2 with cab 4073 is a Mantua Pacific, very similiar to the Mikado ( wreck in need). Some of the 0-6-0 switchers are probably Mantua also. I also saw the Bachmann 1776 diesel and the two tone blue rivarossi Sante Fe Blue Goose.Last two are from the early 80's. The dark blue B&O steam loco is also a Mantua, plastic also 80's vintage.
That is a good size collection. Most of them just need cleaning and a little oil.
I did catch that you have a dremel tool. Please follow the safety directions with it. Next step is to see the motor, remove it and test it with a transformer. Can you tell us what you have? It would help.
After all this, I hope your Dad doesn't mind you messing with his trains.
Okay Tia, wating to hear from you. I think the guys got the cats out of their system. We agreed to stop the corrosion. I gave more specifics about the Mikado in another thread. We have great pictures. You have ebay and yardbird trains for reference.
The 4-6-2 with cab 4073 is a Mantua Pacific, very similiar to the Mikado ( wreck in need). Some of the 0-6-0 switchers are probably Mantua also. I also saw the Bachmann 1776 diesel and the two tone blue rivarossi Sante Fe Blue Goose.Last two are from the early 80's. The dark blue B&O steam loco is also a Mantua, plastic also 80's vintage.
That is a good size collection. Most of them just need cleaning and a little oil.
I did catch that you have a dremel tool. Please follow the safety directions with it. Next step is to see the motor, remove it and test it with a transformer. Can you tell us what you have? It would help.
After all this, I hope your Dad doesn't mind you messing with his trains.
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Thanks! I have other engines, but they wern't in that box. Whewwwww! Well, I have a bunch of other passenger cars too, etc etc...
I think that my dad would be so happy if all comes out well. He is pretty laid back, and I am sure he would not be happy if he saw what his cat did. But I seriously doubt he would be upset with me for trying to fix them.
You want me to take a pic of the engine? Is that what you were refering to as to "what I have" I probably need more coffee right now! :laugh:
Oh, and TIA stands for Thanks In Advance ...
Thanks,
Robin
I think that my dad would be so happy if all comes out well. He is pretty laid back, and I am sure he would not be happy if he saw what his cat did. But I seriously doubt he would be upset with me for trying to fix them.
You want me to take a pic of the engine? Is that what you were refering to as to "what I have" I probably need more coffee right now! :laugh:
Oh, and TIA stands for Thanks In Advance ...
Thanks,
Robin
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Robin huh! Welcome to MTF and this is "Your Engine".
I am a basket case type of engineer. I was refering to the disolving Mikado,to see how the motor looks.
I saw TIA and you are the first to use it here. You signed it like a name and it is a name. A close up of the front boiler after cleaning, please. The front is important.
Bob's body workout is a 6 dollar special. Walmart. Bondo scratch putty for 3 and grey primer and flat black for 2 a piece. Be sure to get flat it is more of an eggshell. Sand paper too. The dollar store auto section has a bundle for a buck. This engine is so bad I don't think you can hurt (the value)it so it makes sense to do this first. Ebay sold one for 62 bucks. That's the price range. A guy in Kittree Me. is selling one unmade in the box for 75. These engines did come as kits.
I guess this is our version of overhaulin.
I am a basket case type of engineer. I was refering to the disolving Mikado,to see how the motor looks.
I saw TIA and you are the first to use it here. You signed it like a name and it is a name. A close up of the front boiler after cleaning, please. The front is important.
Bob's body workout is a 6 dollar special. Walmart. Bondo scratch putty for 3 and grey primer and flat black for 2 a piece. Be sure to get flat it is more of an eggshell
. Sand paper too. The dollar store auto section has a bundle for a buck. This engine is so bad I don't think you can hurt (the value)it so it makes sense to do this first. Ebay sold one for 62 bucks. That's the price range. A guy in Kittree Me. is selling one unmade in the box for 75. These engines did come as kits.I guess this is our version of overhaulin.
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Just for the heck of it....Lets say.........I could get one of these trains as a JIC back up. :laugh: What would be a good price or a price range on it? Would it be 62.00 for then entire train in good running cond?
TIA,
Robin
TIA,
Robin
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12,471 Posts
For a replacement 50 to 60. Looking good and running.On average.
To replace the shell and rods it may be as much as 35. Yardbird doesn't post prices. Those side rods will never look as good but they could be functional.Being a Dad train I presume keeping it is important. 30 to 40 is the price for a worn engine. I suggest labor is cheeper than parts. This s what I do I fix. That bottom frame part is for sale on ebay I got the picture there.
yes tender and engine replacement around 60 at the height of train selling season. I look at 30 or 40 for a sick pacific. Cute ones always go for more.
Seeing the collection I don't think one engine is a big loss. First question is what does this collection need. Not another engine but service!. That 4-6-6-4 engine should be looked at, Invest in that first. Your Mikado may run again with a lot of elbow grease and some minor cost. Am I making any sense?I do not think you can make it to be a 62 dollar engine but you could get it running again. Working on something is a big part of the hobby to me.
To replace the shell and rods it may be as much as 35. Yardbird doesn't post prices. Those side rods will never look as good but they could be functional.Being a Dad train I presume keeping it is important. 30 to 40 is the price for a worn engine. I suggest labor is cheeper than parts. This s what I do I fix. That bottom frame part is for sale on ebay I got the picture there.
yes tender and engine replacement around 60 at the height of train selling season. I look at 30 or 40 for a sick pacific. Cute ones always go for more.
Seeing the collection I don't think one engine is a big loss. First question is what does this collection need. Not another engine but service!. That 4-6-6-4 engine should be looked at, Invest in that first. Your Mikado may run again with a lot of elbow grease and some minor cost. Am I making any sense?I do not think you can make it to be a 62 dollar engine but you could get it running again. Working on something is a big part of the hobby to me.
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Which 4-6-6-4 are you refering too? I am thinking you are refering to the 4-8-8-2 cab fwd? Maybe? Hummm ..I will have to look at the trains again and see which one you are refering too.. I have them in a different room now because they were irritating my lungs I keep having to go look at them for reference, LOL!
I keep having to go look at them for reference, LOL!
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Fwd Cab
Yes the 4272 needs help. Both of them are the most valuable, being the biggest. You have two loggers in a corner they don't come cheep either. I don't recognise the other diesels. I always go by the motor anyway. The shells don't interest me as much.
If you do work on the shell a drum sander for the dremel would be better. Save the wire brush foe the rods and finer work. The bell will pull right off with pliers and the handrail wire comes off with a small pair of needle nose.If you visit my gallery you will see a Fleischmann HO not much different from yours. I repainted that, It started to corrode.It also didn't have a motor.Overall they don't look bad but it is hard to tell because I have no sense of the eau de cat through pictures,
Yes the 4272 needs help. Both of them are the most valuable, being the biggest. You have two loggers in a corner they don't come cheep either. I don't recognise the other diesels. I always go by the motor anyway. The shells don't interest me as much.
If you do work on the shell a drum sander for the dremel would be better. Save the wire brush foe the rods and finer work. The bell will pull right off with pliers and the handrail wire comes off with a small pair of needle nose.If you visit my gallery you will see a Fleischmann HO not much different from yours. I repainted that, It started to corrode.It also didn't have a motor.Overall they don't look bad but it is hard to tell because I have no sense of the eau de cat through pictures,
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I am still here..Just been extremely busy....I have not done much with the trains yet, but I am trying to get to them...I will keep u all posted and I am sure to have more questions.
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