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Discussion Starter #1
Finally got the table built for the new layout. (8x5)… Going to have 2 mainline loops with 2 engines running at a time. Going to have a passing siding on the outside loop and some industrial sidings on the inside. The switches will be 1122’s with the isolation pins in the proper place to enable the anti-derail feature.

Going to run Command Control and conventional at the same time, at least until I can afford to put Digital Dynamics inside of everything.

So now the question… Plan on using a SC-2 switch controller for the switches… reading the documentation about this device and it says that switches should be powered by separate power supplies. The reasoning is that the bulbs in these switches will burn out or overheat. This problem can be alleviated by using T-man excellent tutorial on LED’s in an AC environment. The other thing they allude to is that the SC-2 runs on the power from the switches, which goes away when the PowerStation throttles back for conventional engines. I really don’t want to go cutting wires in these switches if I can avoid it… What has been your experience with using the older switches in a TMCC environment? If I need another power supply, how big does it have to be, AC or DC, how many volts? Also what’s the best way to address this additional connection? The winding wires in the switches are quite small and fragile. I’d want to set up something that’s relatively permanent. Can I use the included wall wart to power the SC-2 and still connect it to the switches? Any insight will be extremely helpful.
 

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Yard Master & Research
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I know zip about TMCC. So if you want to isolate the coils you need to remove the bottom and cut the three bars One is the center rail feed the other two ground the coils for the anti derail. Since they are attach to the bars you will not have to fool with the small wires. link

Bulbs? Doesn't the TMCC run on 24v? Just use a 24 v bulb.

You may not want to use the ground terminal of the switch but ground the coils directly to the power supply.
Makes sense?

SC-2?? Is that a TMCC controller?

Read the FAQ at the Lionel site and read everything on TMCC.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I know zip about TMCC. So if you want to isolate the coils you need to remove the bottom and cut the three bars One is the center rail feed the other two ground the coils for the anti derail. Since they are attach to the bars you will not have to fool with the small wires. link

Bulbs? Doesn't the TMCC run on 24v? Just use a 24 v bulb.

You may not want to use the ground terminal of the switch but ground the coils directly to the power supply.
Makes sense?

SC-2?? Is that a TMCC controller?
Thanks T-man. The SC-2 is a TMCC switch/Accessory controler. It will operate 6 Switches or 2 Accessories and 4 switches. It has binding posts for ground, out, Through. Letting you control the switches by the CAB-1 Remote.

The TMCC, from my understanding and I am very new to it, will run in two modes, Command or Conventional. In command mode you have to have 100% TMCC compatible equipment. It forces the rails to be 18V all the time, speed, direction & features are controlled by a radio signal sent in the rails. In conventional mode, the TMCC varies the track voltage just like a manual transformer would. In this mode you can run both older & TMCC trains, with the TMCC trains automatically compensating for the varying track voltage.

What the SC-2 directions state is that you only need to disconnect the Center Winding connection. This one normally connects to the center rails. Switching is accomplished by connecting the end of the coils to ground, ether through the remote switch lever or via the shorting of the isolated tracks. the last being the "Anti derail" feature

What they propose is that you leave the outside connections AS is, and connect the Center to a constant voltage supply. the ground of that supply would also be connected to the outer rails. and of course would have to be phased like you do when creating isolated blocks on a track with separate transformers.

The SC-2 gets its power from the Switch. Apparently "modern" switches provide a way to power them via an external source, separate from the rails.

I'll have to do some digging to see what Voltage and Draw I need to support to operate the switches. Its looking like 12Vac will do it, and that I can put together with stuff from radio shack.

Thanks for the comments.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I was looking at the new Lionel webpage. This question is the second one.
its the same as they have in the SC-2 Manual... unfortunately they clam that there is some slack wire in the 1122 switches... and I'm sure you have seen that this is NOT the case... the best thing I have found is to remove the 2 rivets, bend open the common rail tabs and drill out the common terminal screw.... this lets you remove the metal base and access the common coil wire inside.... you can then unsolder the connection. thread it back to the top and attach a pigtail to it and tuck it out the end of the switch housing. I use pop rivets to put it back together and replace the terminal with a 6-24 screw and nut and put it all back together.... I take the opportunity to solder the common rail tabs to the metal base as well as give everything a good cleaning and polish.... I have 2 more switches to "Convert" so I'll try and post some pictures...
 
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