[msak24cardss]

Thanks to all the people on here that have helped me along in learning the world of model training. I just purchased a couple items I need help with. The gateman I believe might be a early 45 all metal model with light from under the base. Not sure how to wire this unit to a 145 auto. The searchlight car beacon vibrates but turns very slowly. Checked the rubber insert and it has teeth but is not glued down. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks Mike

 

[Big Ed]

You need a 153c connector, do you have one?

It is a pressure activated connector.

 

[Kwikster]

Actually the correct activator is 145c, or you can use an insulated track section. http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/cd/accs%5Cacc145p1.pdf http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/searchcd31.htm?itm=253

I have one and it's quite neat once set up properly.

Carl

 

[Big Ed]

Actually the correct activator is 145c, or you can use an insulated track section. http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/cd/accs\acc145p1.pdf http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/searchcd31.htm?itm=253

I have one and it's quite neat once set up properly.

Carl

That will work too, it came out with the 145 gateman made in 1950 through 1966. The manual calls for a 145c for the 145.
The 45 gateman which he believes it is came out in 1946 made till 1949. The manual calls for the 153c.
Both of them you can adjust, basically it is the same thing the 145c.

So therefor and hereafter the correct answer would be either.:smokin:

 

[sjm9911]

I like the insulated track sections for controlling stuff in conventional operation , it's pretty cool and you can make the sections out of regular track and a lock on very easily. I have a few pressure switches but the instructions say to have a few track sections before and after the switch not secured to the table. For me I didn't like that idea so I never tried the pressure switches. I have a lot of insulated track controlling lights, semaphores, crossings etc.

 

[msak24cardss]

This is the contactor I have. My gateman is the one in the photo with two post on the platform and light under. Not sure if this hooks up the same way as it only has 2 post for wires. Its all metal and looks complete.


Thanks Mike

 

[KarenORichmond]

get an infrared controller and you will be much happier! 153 IR

 

[gunrunnerjohn]

The 145 is a SPST contact, the 153 is a SPDT contact, that's the major difference. Both adjust basically the same way.

I have to agree with Karen here, if that fits into the budget, the Lionel 153IR works great with any track system and is dead-nuts reliable.

 

[Big Ed]

The 145 is a SPST contact, the 153 is a SPDT contact, that's the major difference. Both adjust basically the same way.

I have to agree with Karen here, if that fits into the budget, the Lionel 153IR works great with any track system and is dead-nuts reliable.

What does SPST and SPDT stand for?

 

[niehausiiw]

SPST- single pole single throw
SPDT- single pole double throw

 

[Big Ed]

SPST- single pole single throw
SPDT- single pole double throw

Well what does have to do with a pressure switch like the 2 we are talking about?

The 145 is just a newer 153?

 

[niehausiiw]

I don't know anything about the particular switches you are talking about. I just know what the terminology means. Switch configuration whether its in a pressure, limit, wall or relay switches can come in a bunch of configurations. A good examples of a SPST switch is any light switch in your house that controls a light from 1 location only. An example of a SPDT switch is any light in your house that is controlled from 2 different switches (other wise known as a 3-way switch).

If I have hijacked your thread I do apologize.

Bill

 

[gunrunnerjohn]

Ed, it has everything to do with the topic. Before you criticize, can you please at least take the time to learn about what you're criticizing?

The 145C contactor is a SPST NO switch. That means that when the switch is actuated, the circuit is completed.

The 153C contactor is a SPDT switch. That means that it has a common connection and when not actuated the NC contact is active, and when it's actuated the NO contact is active.

The 145C is NOT a newer 153C, they have different functionality.

The 145C was supplied with accessories like the gateman that have a simple on-off function. The 153C was supplied with accessories like the block signal that have two active states and required power both when activated and when not activated, i.e. the red and green lights.

 

[msak24cardss]

I dont understand how this 145c works. It looks like the track sits on top of the switch and when the loco passes over it makes contact, but that makes that track pc sit way higher then the rest of the track. Maybe I'm missing something but it looks awfull to me. I think I'll go with the insulated track section instead. Not sure how to wire that either. I'm guessing use a lock on in the middle section where theres no insulating pins.

 

[servoguy]

For relays, you may also find the contacts labeled

Form A: SPST NO (normally open)
Form B: SPST NC (normally closed)
Form C: SPDT

 

[gunrunnerjohn]

You are correct, the 145C sits under the track and does raise it up a bit. That is necessary as it has to depress the top arm a bit to close the contacts.

The insulated track section isolates one of the outside rails, not the middle rail. You wire the power to the accessory, then wire the common to the insulated rail. When the train comes over the track, the wheels connect the two outside rails and complete the circuit and actuate the accessory.

 

[msak24cardss]

You are correct, the 145C sits under the track and does raise it up a bit. That is necessary as it has to depress the top arm a bit to close the contacts.

The insulated track section isolates one of the outside rails, not the middle rail. You wire the power to the accessory, then wire the common to the insulated rail. When the train comes over the track, the wheels connect the two outside rails and complete the circuit and actuate the accessory.

Thanks John. I got it now. Power (red) to the Gateman and the black from the gateman to the outside rail within the insulated pins.

 

[gunrunnerjohn]

Correct, that should do the trick.

 

[Big Ed]

Ed, it has everything to do with the topic. Before you criticize, can you please at least take the time to learn about what you're criticizing

Who the heck is criticizing. YOU go back and read!
I asked,

What does SPST and SPDT stand for?
niehausiiw was kind enough to answer thank you niehausiiw :thumbsup:

I then said,
Well what does have to do with a pressure switch like the 2 we are talking about?
The 145 is just a newer 153?

How the heck did I criticize by asking a _____ question?!
How the ____ am I suppose to learn if I don't ask?!
( I made it big so you can't miss it.)
Show me where I criticized anything?!

I am not a genius on EVERYTHING like you are.
If I don't ask I can't learn!
Stop being so condescending all the time!



AFYI,
The 45n gateman came with the 153c
The 145 gateman used the 145c.
Though I think both can be used for either.


By the way niehausiiw you did not hijack the thread at all, he wanted to know how to wire it.
The connectors are part of the answer.:smokin:

 

[sjm9911]

Ok, so we got the basics down. Withe the gateman iI have the light on constantly and have the gate man controlled by the insulated track section. You can buy or easily make your own insulated track from a regular track section. To make the track yourself you need to buy track insulation pins that will replace the metal pins in the outside or grounded rail. You must also insulate this rail. To do this it must look like the center rail with insulating paper placed between the rail and the cross ties. Pry open the cross ties and cut material to fit under the rail. Then re clamp the rail back into the track section. I use tar paper as my insulator, some people use matchbook s, etc. The original stuff is called fishpaper I belive, but any thing will do. Next connect a lock on to the track. The gate man will get a feed from the center rail but the circuit will not become complete until the wheels of the train span the insulated and non insulated track. This will operate the accessorie. If you want to make the accessorie stay on longer add another insulated track section. Hope this helps.