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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all, new to the site here. Just had a quick question. I have dusted off my Dad's 2333 and assorted track and accessories. Id like to re wire the loco and my 022 switches. Just not sure on the gauge of wire. If anyone can help me with that I would appreciate it. Oh yeah, how do I check the voltage of each engine? Where should I place the leads? Thanks again everyone.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
A simple giveaway is to hold the engine up and start it. If both motors respond the same,That's good. If one starts up slower, well that indicates a difference. A bad one? I am not sure.
I just replaced all four brushings and didn't really notice a difference in improvement from the time I took in out of the box a few weeks ago, just want to check and make sure I didn't go backwards with my tinkering.

My main reason for rewiring is that I just want it to last for my son (he's only 2 1/2 months now :laugh:). The switches are in bad shape and i cant justify buying new ones at this time so I want to fix em. Thanks for the replies. Nice place you guys have here.
 

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I'll offer up the same advice that GunRunnerJohn and TJ Cruiser would likely offer up - clean and lube the locomotive before doing any kind of major re-wiring. You might save yourself some time and effort.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'll offer up the same advice that GunRunnerJohn and TJ Cruiser would likely offer up - clean and lube the locomotive before doing any kind of major re-wiring. You might save yourself some time and effort.
That's all been done, cleaned lubed and oiled. It's running just fine, (I think, how is a 1948 Lionel supposed to run? Like new? 50% of new? Whats a realistic expectation with this things?) Id just like to give it an over haul.
 

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Well, after cleaning and lubing, my next step it to pop off the brush cover and clean the commutator, and make sure the brushes are clean and not worn down.

If the motor and gear train turn freely by hand, and you've cleaned the commutator and brushes, you should have a decent running unit.
 

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When you lubed the 2333, did you take it apart and lube the gears that are inside the trucks?

You do not need to rewire the 022 switches. If you want to get them working again, put "022/711 switch operating pblms" into Google. I made a long post on the CTT forum about rejuvinating these switches. The wire in them will probably last forever.

I also don't think you should try to rewire the 2333. I have a 2333, a 2343, and a 2353, and none of them needs to be rewired. The wire in the post war locos doesn't seem to go bad. The wires to the pickup rollers on the tenders does go bad, so it usually needs to be replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
When you lubed the 2333, did you take it apart and lube the gears that are inside the trucks?

You do not need to rewire the 022 switches. If you want to get them working again, put "022/711 switch operating pblms" into Google. I made a long post on the CTT forum about rejuvinating these switches. The wire in them will probably last forever.

I also don't think you should try to rewire the 2333. I have a 2333, a 2343, and a 2353, and none of them needs to be rewired. The wire in the post war locos doesn't seem to go bad. The wires to the pickup rollers on the tenders does go bad, so it usually needs to be replaced.
Yeah I got up close and personal with the trucks, that particular pick up lead looks week to me so I am going to replace it here momentarily. The horn frame and relay are going to need to be replaced because of battery acid, looks like it leaked into the relay a bit as well so it kinda needs a rewiring IMO.

I read through your whole write up on those switches last week and it was a great help. I got one switch in ok working order but it sometimes doesn't always work and needs a manual turn into the other direction, then it switches fine, then it will not randomly. I figured the next step would be to rewire them. Doesn't look very difficult.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Oh and another reason I thought a re-wiring would be necessary for the loco is neutral and reverse stick a lot. I'm going to guess that has to do with acid in the relay?
 

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E-unit issues. The "relay" is an electromagnet solenoid. Magnetized up during normal operation, gravity-dropped down with a throttle-down or transformer reverse-button toggle. You can clean the solenoid cylinder with some GooGone. Put a tiny drop of oil on the "pawl" little hand grabber at the bottom of the solenoid cylinder ... it's that "pawl" that engages the geared cam on the e-unit drum. Are you sure the the contact fingers are making good contact with the drum? 4 fingers on top, 2 on the bottom.

I agree with 22-gauge wire for a motor rewire. I use cloth-covered single-strand for non-movable wire runs, and rubber-covered braided wire for runs that are to parts that get moved (like a truck on a tender, or a brush-holder that might be removed for service).

Cheers,

TJ
 

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The 022 switch wire is very high quality and should not need replacing. After restoring almost 80 022 switches, I have never replaced one piece of wire.

Erratic operation of the 022 switches is often caused by the sliding contacts being out of adjustment. Read the part of the post about adjusting these contacts.

Also make sure the switch operates smoothly when you turn the lantern.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Perhaps but after replacing the wire in one of them I found that the switch was much more snappy when testing it with leads. Maybe I had a solder point go bad.

Replacing the main lead to the pickups on the 2333 has made quite a difference. Train is much more responsive at lower throttles and roars to life when I turn up the juice. Directional switch seems to have un stuck itself too. Thanks for everyone's input.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
One thing I forgot to follow up on, where do i test the voltage of each motor? Any of the brush plate leads, or somewhere else? Thanks.
 
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