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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so first I searched this DCC section for DCC Turnouts, searched google and found out that it is called.. "DCC Friendly Turnouts" and did some reading. I see there are servos controlling manual turnouts, drm, ds64 and more...

but ill start here...

I have my layout (mostly as members have helped me out with it up here), i have some flex track (5x36" and 5 more on order), steel track and brass turnouts.
Yes I know the steel track and brass turnouts have to go... this setup is in my garage and is running, no issues with a simple loop. Brass and steel havent given me any issues at this time but I know that it will in due time. Since I just wanted to use what i had and create just a loop to test my trains and get JMRI up and running, I am at my next phase...

with Atlas 100 flex track (not enough of it yet), I need to start bending and laying it out, but I do not want to do so until I also know what turnouts I will need.

There are so many products out there that seem to control the turnouts and I just cant wrap my head around the one I want/need....

I am just looking for a simple turnout that doesnt require a mess of add ons to get working...

so what turnout should I start buying, not worrying about controlling them yet.... just need to know the turnout to start laying the layout down...

appreciate it...
~Jeff
 

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There really is no such thing as DCC turnouts, per se. I think the DCC friendly turnouts are just insulfrog. You can use any turnout with DCC.

I asked a similar question a few years ago, but my question was about DCC controlled turnouts, and you can do that with any turnout by using a decoder equipped switch machine.

Added. You've probably seen this already:

https://dccwiki.com/DCC_Friendly_Turnout
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
There really is no such thing as DCC turnouts, per se. I think the DCC friendly turnouts are just insulfrog. You can use any turnout with DCC.

I asked a similar question a few years ago, but my question was about DCC controlled turnouts, and you can do that with any turnout by using a decoder equipped switch machine.

Added. You've probably seen this already:

https://dccwiki.com/DCC_Friendly_Turnout

yes.. that is why i added "Friendly" in between DCC and Turnout :thumbsup:

aight so just go with whatever turn out for now. I just wanted to see if there is one over the other...

like the one i posted, has the ability to be controlled remotely. For $17, it maybe cheaper than buying a turnout without the remote switch initially but if I have to then go buy the remote switch making it cost more than the initial combo kit....
 

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...but, be very careful as to WHICH Peco turnouts you purchase. Their Code 100 rails conform to European standards and geometry with fully curved paths on the diverging route through the frog and beyond. You want the Code 83 Streamline Insulfrog (which is Peco's term, since adopted widely by many modelers), and you'll be happy with their #5 or #6 turnouts. If you want longer and shallower divergence through the frog, go with a #8, but they're quite long.
 

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Walthers turnouts were formerly made by Shinohara, and were top notch, too. Shinohara decided it was time to retire and closed up shop, but Walthers was able to acquire their tooling and qualified another vendor. Their standard turnouts #4 thru #8, are expected to be back in stock by the end of February. Curved turnouts and special pieces (crossovers, double slips, and wyes) by the end of April. They still have some of the older ones in stock and on sale.

MicroEngineering turnouts are also excellent.

Atlas Customline is a step down from the big 3 (Peco, Walthers, MicroEngineering), but still not bad. Atlas SnapSwitches are pretty much junk.

NONE of the better ones come with an actuator, though. You have to provide some (although Peco's points are spring-loaded, so you can just flip them with a finger).
 

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You can't go wrong with Peco turnouts.
You just don't have turnout caused derails
with them.

However, you should be aware they offer
'Insulfrog' and 'Electrofrog' versions.

Those with small 4 wheel locos would need
to use the 'Electrofrog' to ensure smooth
operation thru the points. In these, the frog
is powered. However, it is necessary to use
insulated joiners in BOTH frog rails to avoid
short circuits.

If you don't plan to use the small switchers go
with Peco Insulfrog. Be aware, tho, that they
are power routing...that is...when points set to
straight the divert track will lose power. If you
want continuous power to your tracks use track
drops from both frog rails.

Don
 

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I have used only Peco and Walthers/Shinohara 'DCC-friendly" turnouts to dat, normal type and curved in the latter case. I have a small pre-Walthers buy-out Life Like Proto 2000 SW-8 switcher that would stall on ALL turnouts, even my excellent hand-laid DCC ones. I contacted Walthers, which by then had just acquired Life Like, and they shipped me a non-traction tired axle free of charge. I swapped it out, and believe it or not, that small beast now negotiates any turnout on my system with no problems.

Bottom line, all of us find unpleasant surprises here and there in the hobby. Experience is the best teacher, and one doesn't get experience except by actually doing something. There's a way to improve connectivity on a DCC-friendly turnout, but you'll need thin 24 gauge wire strands and you'll have to know how to solder. You can solder jumpers between always-energized stock rails and adjacent guards and closure rails, for example.
 

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Just more praise for Peco. When I started a few years ago I had many issues with Atlas snap-switches.

In a rookie effort to do away with engines stopping or stalling over the frogs I switched to Peco electro-frog and have had no problems since (as long as rails and wheels are clean). I may have been alright with insul-frog since I don't run anything smaller than an sw1500 (and even that is all wheel pick-up) but I didn't want to take any chances.

Good luck!
 
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