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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Yes, I bought an Ebay train... maybe I should have gone to a hobby shop instead but got a fair deal for it. I won't ship it back or the transport will eat the deal. I don't think the seller was a bad guy, and the thing was still in it's original form and package... brand new like stipulated.

Maybe it was bruised in transport but the thing is... it just don't work even if the pamphlet said it should !! No light, no noise, no motor, nothing.:eek:

I shook the thing (Athearn Blue boxed EMD SD-40-2... a cool piece... well almost) a little because there was a suspious sound and there it was... a broken piece.:thumbsdown: It came from the front, I'll find the specific number and name when I'll get home (I'll keep you informed as well as I can). Anyway, I glued the piece and now, I need to know EXACTLY where it goes and how to get there whitout making anymore damages.

Ps... That should probably go into the "HOW TO" section when I'll get it done. I'll take pictures as long as someone is here to help me in the process. So, you still can answer "Told Ya" or give me a hand with this.:eek:

Pps... I'm a catastrophy magnet:eek:hwell:... these things always happen to me... ebay or hobby shop isn't making much of a difference. Keep that in mind !

Thanks.

Mart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
First question... is a simple plastic piece broken in 2 pieces can make a train to stop like this ??

I sure hope so !
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Topo:
I'm home now so I can answer the exact piece number that was broke was 40053 and named "Worm housing". It's may be it's rear conterpart (34128), I don't know since I have not opened the Loco yet !

So, no I didn't put it apart yet... any tips to tear it down whitout doing any damage ??

And, the problem isn't the rail, I've tested it on and out the rails with a tester I've made with a 9v.

Mart.
 

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So, no I didn't put it apart yet... any tips to tear it down without doing any damage ??
Mart.
Try here>>> http://hackitup.railfan.net/athearn.html

You'd have to use a hammer to mess up an Athearn drive, relax.;)

It's got to be pretty simple, they don't use wipers on the wheels, all contacts are simple bearing points and isolation plates. Somewhere electricity is not getting through, start at the motor and work towards the trucks.

The only difference between this one and yours is the model type (GP35) and that I've hardwired the top clip (an easy modification you should do anyway). See if there's anything out of place when you compare yours to this one.

 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok, got it open... I had to put out a "coupler box" to do so, but it's done.

Thanks Shay (or should I call you Bob?) for the link... I found some interesting things on it and I know where and most importantly WHY you took the "wire way" to have your current directed into that Loco.

You're quite right, our Athearn are strangely similar... a couple of exceptions here and there but nothing major and probably thing you've tuned anyway. Speaking of which... I need to get out the light bracket to get my worm housing at place. Any suggestions ?

Without that worm housing, all the things inside the nose were floating around... bearings, shaft, female coupling worm... I found everything... at least I think I have. Hey, I almost sound like someone who knows what's he's talking about !?

When I'll get over this light bracket, it'll be quite easy to put back together... I already figure out what was where and everything so... I just hope everything will works because, I'm not so sure anymore that only this little broken plastic piece could stop such a system !? I mean, the rear of the Loco should have worked... isn't it ??

Mart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ohh ! and a constatation... more than a question... that light ain't doing it's job... it just lid (glow... not sure of the word) the inner cab... what about the front lights... or the rear lights ?! Oh well... it'll be LED time soon !!

And it's a shame that I can't free myself for Saturday since the CP Spirit Train (Vancouver 2010) will be at Montreal... I wish I could go !

It really is intoxicating... I mean, my dad gave my this when I was a kid... then put it away (space problems)... then I had kids, decided to take the old box at home so my kids could be a part of what my Dad started (much more space here) and now, all my dinner are spent on Wiki to learn the more I could about the real trains... and I'm sad because I can't go to see real train.

Makes me laught. But hey... I love it !
 

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The coupler box issue tells me you have an even newer version but most of the elements should still be the same. You'll see on the end of the loc to the right that I've removed my headlight bracket as well. I put 1.6mm super bright LEDs in each socket of most of my Athearns...makes for a serious set of death beams...



You should still have some sign of life coming from your loc if all circuits are there and uninterrupted, even with the shredded gear tower. The worm cover usually clips the gears in and acts as a retainer for the truck so there may be an interruption there. Athearn uses sintered iron wheels which get iffy pickup when dirty or unused for a long time.

It is a treat of a hobby, I've been active in it since 1974 but around it since I was very young, having at least 3 layouts in the family circle that I can remember. Christmas gave me at least 10-20 gardens to ogle every year. My kids get to carefully play with my trains...

 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
So... here a couple of update...

First, the opened beast:

Notice what I found lying stuck in oil... the front bearing !

With the light out:

Notice that I already put everything in place.

I glued the worm housing with "El cheapo super glue... won't glue anything but your fingers!"... with the result that when I pushed the piece back in place, it borke again !


Not to worry... this was the first try... after further inspection... the plastic seems to be very close to ABS... SO... here the ultimate in gluying these... armored them in metal ! I took a piece of copper, formed it to the exact contour of my piece and bond everything with dual part epoxy glue... from my experience... this will make it bullet proof.



And voilà !! Here's a fine looking and going train commin up.


I've learn a lot with this... Next step... I'll do the "death beams"... like Bob told me... but maybe with a little twist !

Thanks Bob.

Mart
 

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You're welcome, always good to see a little creative engineering to get them little boogers going. You can always keep an eye out for the part in the mean time. Time to hard wire it---just watch for those extremely aerodynamic brush springs just behind the copper contact clips on the motor, amazing fliers they are.:thumbsup:
 

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I was about to say "If you don't want it, send it to me."

But that's a cool repair!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I was about to say "If you don't want it, send it to me."

But that's a cool repair!
;)
Yeah... nice try ! I didn't pay much for it but wasn't prepared to let it go either. Besides... a little repair don't scare me and for a first time on a train, I think I manage to do a cool job that will last for the entire train's life (we'll see).

Nobody answered Told Ya !... I'm kind of sad ! NOT !:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The metal clip is a good idea. I would of used 2 part epoxy (JB Weld) where your clip is to hold it together.
The plastic part and the copper piece are practicly dipped in it !! You can see it in the photo, this clear film is the Epoxy glue and appear everywhere between the metal and plastic. It's bond alright.:D

Not to worry... it will hold !!:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Do you intend to reinforce the other side?
Not sure... this one was broken when I bought the Loco... hence the repair ! I think I would leave the other one alone... except if you tell me they are a weak link in the Athearn setup !?!

They are a home engineered circuit---1.6mm Super Bright LEDs wired in series with a 1/4 watt 470 ohm resistor.
Bob, they are great beams... just like to know how they react when you reverse the current (in case you don't run DCC) ?? ... since LED don't like reversed current.

I'm thinking about doing mine with a battery (and a mini switch) incorporated in the Loco to avoid such problem.
 
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