You'll have to cut some track to fill the gaps. You can measure the gap distance in SCARM using the ruler tool (Tools menu, mesure tape). Then try a test piece of that length.

I cut O-27 track in my 10" miter saw. I installed a 7" carbide disk and put the track on a 2x4 to raise it up a bit. If you go slow on the cut, the ends just need a bit of filing to remove the burrs.

 

The choice is rather simple. You like and want to use 027 track. You can use it on the inside loops. It is the 8 wheel steamers and large F3s and larger passenger cars that need room. So keep them on the outside track and use O gage tubular It does not matter if the plan works out you adjust but cutting track and make it fit. That is why tubular track is easier to work with.

Just make an 027 circle and run a big engine on it. The sight will not be pretty. I love my O gage track.
You will have to test to see if the big engines can navigate an 027. If not use 022 switches or leave them out.

The reverse loop appears to be elevated and is very sharp. The inclines need to be softened up.

Big engines just do not run well on 027 track they need room.

The turbines are 8 wheel and with a three or four digit number will operate on 027. An 8 driver three numbered Berk or Hudson would not work well.

.

 

One other thing for Lji1221 to consider is the potential future rolling stock and locos. If he is to EVER use or run (or have visitors run) any of the modern Fastrack based "Lion Chief" locomotives, he needs to have at least "O" radius curves, or larger radius 0-27 / "O" gauge. Each year I have struggled with two "Lion Chief" Christmas trains, one of which will run on the outside loop 027 layout curves, but only occasionally derails on the (model ?) 027 switches.

The other one (which uses a Bluetooth remote) absolutely will not operate on the outer loop 027 curves (and a pair of switches), but happily stays on track on the middle oval which is an all "O" oval track (no switches). Both locos (2-6-2 I think) LOOK identical on the bottom framing and wheels, but one acts differently. It may be the wheel flanges, I haven't figured it out. Both came boxed with Fastrack (36" ?). But the 1952 #2036 that we resurrected cruises around very happily on the outside loop, as does the modern Polar Express Baby Berkshire and its cars. (in the T&VB red caboose, Tomball Texas 1907 Depot Museum ).

It may be heresy, but for my grandson, after pulling my 1950's Lionel out of storage and then adding (and adding, and adding!) some EBay older Lionels purchases and some new stuff, I wound up getting a box of over 75 pieces of Fastrack for less than $75, then adding 7 switches from a lot sale for less than $150, and converted all the older Lionel, Marx, and other various radii tubular to FT, and all the center floor space in a largish room to a train layout. Seems like "everything" runs ok on FT, except your billfold if you buy the track pieces new. (Except for some of the Legacy locos and the BigBoy, of course. ) We are running a simple KW transformer, even with a couple of "Bluetooth" controlled locos. Glad that Lionel has (so far) designed its stuff to be "backwards compatible".
rtl

 

They did make 027 8n diffrent radious. Big ed may chime in on it. You can still find it.

 

https://www.modeltrainforum.com/threads/027-gauge-track-radius-sizes.25812/

Read here.

 

Thanks to all for your inputs. From what I've heard, so far, investing in ROSS track may not be the answer.

T-Man, when you say 'they need room' are you referring to the distance to that adjacent track, or simply the ability of the trucks to make the curves? Good eyes on the incline as well. I'm expecting a lot of tuning during the actual build.

I fully expected to be cutting pieces of the standard 027 track to make things fit, I just got frustrated with trying to do so in SCARM.

 

Its both, over hang of larger stuff may go into the other track. The main issue is the trucks binding on the curves as they are further away from each other. Other issues are the engiens wheels binding. You can get the 027 track in larger diameters. So, 72 inch 027 curves. It depends on your space and how much you like 027 and how much you have invested vs if you want new track and how much you want to spend.

 

I meant room on curves the bigger radius the better.
I have a friend who used 027 tack to make a 6 by 12 table. He liked his 027 track. He never had any large engines. He collected boxcars. So I educated him and brought a Burlington Diesel in to show it's size. Since then he has invested in some larger engines. We got the table to expand to 8 ft with O gage track in the outer loop and an elevated back stretch.

 

I do agree I like 0 stuff better and the switches are better. But some do like the lower profile of the 027.

 

I do like the look of O27 and for a while considered making my track O27 gauge so i could get a bit more room. The decider was the fact that i had a lot of larger locomotives and cars by that point, which meant they wouldn’t work or would have severe overhang. Also the fact that the mountain one the layout is a pain to. Ove since there wires on the back that light up some of the buildings.

 

You do see they make larger diameter track in 027? Say you like the 0 track better or whatever you are using. Diameter is no reason not to use 027, I can think of 20 things why not to use it. But diameter isn't one of them.

 

Due to the small space around the track i doubt i could improve on the current diameter, even with the ballast part of fastrack gone it would only give me at most an inch to two. I did consider larger O27 curves but i couldn’t get the radius i wanted with the current size of the layout.

 

Its hard to find stuff as sometimes the sellers dont list it as being larger diameter. So, best to look at the pictures.

8 SECTIONS (COMPLETE CIRCLE) 027 TUBULAR CURVE TRACK NEW CONDITION | eBay

8 SECTIONS.

www.ebay.com

Not sure what radius it is, but its bigger then 27. Lol. Sometimes the amount of ties will give away the radius. I know 0 stuff, not that scolled in 027.

 

Its hard to find stuff as sometimes the sellers dont list it as being larger diameter. So, best to look at the pictures.

8 SECTIONS (COMPLETE CIRCLE) 027 TUBULAR CURVE TRACK NEW CONDITION | eBay

8 SECTIONS.

www.ebay.com

Not sure what radius it is, but its bigger then 27. Lol. Sometimes the amount of ties will give away the radius. I know 0 stuff, not that scolled in 027.

I do believe that is Marx O-27 in 34" radius. I have some. Five ties and 8 sections to a circle is unique to Marx wide radius. Decent price. But shipping inflation takes some of the fun out of it.

The Marx wide radius sections are in the SCARM database so it makes it easy to integrate into the design. Just select Marx O-27 sub-database and use section 802. Unfortunately, the Marx wide radius switches are not in the database. I have two of those switches as well (willing to part with them).

 

MARX Track Huge lot Very Clean***NICE LQQK*** | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for MARX Track Huge lot Very Clean***NICE LQQK*** at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

Marx wide radius also comes up with a ton of stuff.

 

The root issue is whether investing in ROSS 54'' is worth the cost, seeing as I'm more inclined to remain as 'old school' as practical. Again I have BOXES of 027 track, and a bunch of 027 1122 switches, I'm trying to stay post war as much as possible. I have some 12-14 engines, that are ALL postwar, some that I've listed above. I can list the specific numbers if that helps, but I think the passenger cars might be more of an issue that the engines. Again, I have a pullman set 2442, 2642, 2640 and the silver series 2641,2,3:2423,29,32,34,35,36. If I build a consist of these passengers with a Sante Fe FE A/B will the 027 curves work?

 

ISTM the easiest way to tell whether it will work is to just throw down some track (a simple circle or oval will do) and try to run your engines. If you're willing to stick with postwar gear, I suspect most if not all will run fine, since when they were manufactured, O27 (both profile and diameter!) was the defacto standard track, so by and large mass-market rolling stock was produced to work within its limitations.

 

Just a quick look, they should all run fine on the track. But a lionel AB will not run fine in the older 027 switches. It will run on the tack according to tandem. So, do you have other engiens? If so, use the AB on its own track, or get newer 027 switches. Not sure how new, some of the post war switches may work, or even another manafature may work.

LIONEL TRAINS 2343 DIESEL

Identification details about the Lionel Trains 2343 Diesel that Lionel made during the Post-war period.

www.tandem-associates.com

 

Further looking at tandem,

LIONEL TRAINS 1122 O27 GAUGE SWITCH

Identification details about the Lionel Trains O27 Gauge Switch that Lionel made during the Post-war period

www.tandem-associates.com

You need 1122e switches. As stamped on the bottem. So , get those if you dont have them.

 

You should be able to find 42" curves in O27 profile. K-Line made 54" and even 72" in O27 but it's a bit harder to find. My entire layout is O27 tubular track and I only use 27" curves in the yard where smaller switchers roam. I could take a look and see if I have any extra curves to sell.

Marx also made 34" curves that are a slight improvement over 27", but they're older and most I've seen are in rusty condition.

 

Also, when it comes to switches, K-Line and Lionel made O27 switches with 42" turnouts. My layout is almost entirely K-Lines with 42" turnout.

 

All my 1122 switches are stamped as "E", so at least I don't have to invest in replacing them. As far as the curve radius is concerned, I guess it's time to get onto the benchwork build. I can start with the railyard area and give various consists a try. Hopefully I can build up enough to give me confidence in staying with the old school track. If I didn't have so much of the old track, I'd be even more confused choosing since it seems there are quite a few out there.

 

A quick update on the Curve issue discussed above: It seems that back in the 1950's modeler's didn't use railyards for the passenger cars set, at least with 1122 switches. They pinch about midway through the turnout. I added a full size (9") straight between 2 027 curve pieces to 'ease' the corners. It seemed to help some with the cars making the turn, however reversing seems a bit dicey.

I need to build up my mock area some in order to get a longer consist before deciding on what to do next. I hate not being able to run the passenger cars, they look so cool when they're lit.

As always, inputs are most welcome.

 

Those silver dawn, bluff cars are big. They really were not ment for 027 curves.

LIONEL TRAINS 2531 SILVER DAWN PASSENGER CAR

Identification details about the Lionel Trains Passenger Car that Lionel made during the Post-war period

www.tandem-associates.com

 

The best idea in my opinion is to scrap all the O27 and go with O gauge tubular track. Yes its a little more expensive but it is much more sturdy and there are lots of it out there. Your asking for trouble by using o27.

Dave

 

The best idea in my opinion is to scrap all the O27 and go with O gauge tubular track. Yes its a little more expensive but it is much more sturdy and there are lots of it out there. Your asking for trouble by using o27.

Dave

I'm not sure what the perceived "trouble" might be with O-27 that would be solved by converting to O. Sure, if your rolling stock has deep flanges designed for O, you might be limited to that (much less available, much more expensive IME) type of track.

OTOH, virtually all PW and more recent rolling stock will do just fine with O-27 profile track, again IME. O is fine if you like or need it, but there are literally thousands of us happily using O-27. Or am I missing something?

 

More of the O gauge track is available than in O27. Different curve diameters in O27 is very scarce but plentiful in O. Also O gauge switches are more plentiful and better switch, most O27 switches I see are in rough shape and lousy to begin with.

 

You must shop in different places than I do.

FWIW, I've found true high-rail O track, new or used, is relatively scarce on the ground IME, while used or repro O-27 track appears by the boxful at 50 cents per section or less used, two bucks for new. Used track is always in the condition it's in, and if what's on offer is too beat up, I suggest you don't buy it unless you're willing/able to rehabilitate it.

Besides, you seem to feel that O-27 is inherently inferior and to be avoided at all cost, including ripping it all out and replacing it. YMMV, but I just wanted to suggest many of us have found O-27 to be perfectly suitable, and widely available in a wide range of radiuses at modest cost.

 

We had a discussion on 027 track recently and I was impressed. Knowing that multiple radii are available definetly expands it's usefulness.

 

I dont hate 027, I just dont like it as much as 0. 0 is easier to find in the diffrent diameters, and the switches are better. But if you like and want the 027, thats fine. Some find it more prototypical. I find its flimsier. I have it , have used it, but dont anymore.

 

Well. Regardless of available radi options for 0-27. Since the favored passenger cars hang up (pinch) against the 0-27 motor housing of the switches (turnouts), seems to me the final answer is right there.
I also agree with the others that 0 gauge turnouts are better Made all around.

“Poor mans easement and radi extension”.
A lonnnng time ago, I didn’t yet know that 0 curves came in wider than 31. I was a cash poor kid anyway so.
I wanted a wider radius back in the corner, behind the Christmas tree. “For obvious reason.”
The best I came up was to alternate 4x 1/2 curves and 3x 1/2 straights per 90deg of turn.
I needed to do 135 deg so, add two more each of 1/2 curves and straights and it’s done.
Had to cut most of them myself so, my older brother cut three grooves in a small block of wood to hold the rails tight and steady while I gently cut the rails with a hacksaw using a 36tooth blade.
Acquired needed extra ties from the “scrap track” box.
Worked very well actually. That huge and top heavy Berkshire never tipped over.
That’s the way it was back in 1972, age 10.