So I recently got my first section of track up and running, just for testing purposes I only soldered on one feeder wire for power to the track and it ran ok. It stumbled a little here and there but I figured the track needed cleaned better.

Last night I dropped more feeder wires connected to terminal blocks, and ran all my wires down through and under the table.

I tried running the train again and thought it was going to run so much nicer with more feeders but I was mistaken. The train won't even move a few inches without stalling out. I can touch it and it will re-connect and then just stall out again.

Any ideas on why this is happening?



What is the best thing to clean the track and the loco wheels with. Currently the only thing I have used is alcohol and a bristle brush?

Thanks

Hard to say exactly. Sounds like you might have caused a short with one or more of the additional droppers you added. Double-triple check all your wiring. Then double check all your track-joints.

Clean the track with a piece of cotton soaked in rubbing alchol for a start.

 

Assuming your connecting to a DCC system? I would disconnect all the feeders except one, then reconnect them one at a time and see if there is a problem with one in particular. Make sure you stick to the correct phasing. I think you have one of the feeders reversed. Information about the track plan, where you have isolated sections and what DCC system your using would all be helpful.

 

I double checked all the feeders and none of them are reversed, I'm using Digitrax Zephyr Xtra DCC controller. I had a short when I first connected everything and the controller told me so I fixed that already.

Here is what I have set up so far, the inside track on both loops is all red wire, and the outside track on both loops is all black wire.

The stumbling symptoms you describe sound like
poor wheel to track electrical contact which usually can be
solved with track & wheel cleaning.

Use an abrasive pencil eraser or kitchen pad
on the tops of the
rails followed by a wipe with an alcohol cloth.

To clean the loco wheels place a paper towel with
a few drops of alcohol on the track run the front
truck of the loco ONTO the alcohol Spot. Hold
the loco with one hand so it doesn't move and
run up the speed with the other hand. The wheels
will spin in the alcohol and self clean. Turn the
loco around and do the rear wheels the same way.

If that doesn't solve the issue you must have
poor joiner contact between track sections.

Don

Thanks, I'll give that a try tonight.

 

The stumbling symptoms you describe sound like
poor wheel to track electrical contact which usually can be
solved with track & wheel cleaning.

Use an abrasive pencil eraser or kitchen pad
on the tops of the
rails followed by a wipe with an alcohol cloth.

To clean the loco wheels place a paper towel with
a few drops of alcohol on the track run the front
truck of the loco ONTO the alcohol Spot. Hold
the loco with one hand so it doesn't move and
run up the speed with the other hand. The wheels
will spin in the alcohol and self clean. Turn the
loco around and do the rear wheels the same way.

If that doesn't solve the issue you must have
poor joiner contact between track sections.

Don

 

Assuming that the loco is a known good one, then I have to agree with Don that the most likely issue is dirty track and / or locomotive wheels.

I would use either a bright boy (like a hard pencil eraser) or other very mild abrasive block, followed by a good wiping with denatured alcohol (works better for me than isopropyl) and a lint free rag. A toothbrush will loosen crud on the tracks, but usually just pushes it around. It requires a cloth to clean the stuff up.

Unless of course, you're not using a toothbrush or similar but something with conductive bristles. That's a bad idea, because the little metal bristles can break off and cause shorts everywhere.

 

f you don't get a short immediately, but the loco actually powers up enough to move for an inch or six with each push, it's definitely NOT crossed wires. A short is a short is a short, and your DCC system will let you know immediately.

This is a problem with harness, track, or pickup. It might include bad solders or a broken wire in the harness, or the track is dirty, or the pickup wipers in the drive-train of the locomotive are not doing what they're put there to do. It might be dirty, corrosion, broken wire, bad solder, same as for the harness if it's a steamer and tender.

Actually, one other possibility is with the connection of the decoder to its wire bundle, maybe via a connector. Broken or bent pin maybe, bad solder there.........

Pushing the loco should eventually get you to clean track, and it should run for a few seconds at least. So, because is it so bad, my bet is something internal behind the driver wheels.....again, from the wipers all the way to the decoder itself, and any wires/connectors in between.

 

Well that would suck, this is a brand new loco Atlas S2 N scale. I have only run it the first time I put the track together for maybe 20 minutes and last night when it ran very badly.

 

What exactly do you have the track set-up on???

 

Sorry, got really busy at work and home haven't had time to play in a few days.

Here is the track right now its set up on pink insulating foam on plywood table.



Hopefully I'll get some time this weekend and try and give the track another good cleaning.

 

Did your Zephyr come with a little LED track testor? If track cleaning (Brightboy) doesn't do the trick I still think you should disconnect all the track feeds except one and concentrate on just getting one loop working. The LED testor will find find any bad joint connections. It also looks like you have no insulated track joiners. I know lots of people think you done need them but since you have multiple feeds, isolating the track into blocks with only one feed each makes it a little easier to isolate track faults. And congratulation on living in the city that had the first suspension bridge in the US! I'll locate a diagram of how to make a little LED DCC track testor.

 

Here's what I use for a track tester. You can see the red and green of the bi-color LED both firing. In the picture it just looks yellow.