I do not think the 153ir is still being made. Do you really want to spend the cash to get two or three of them? I am not really shore how your set up works.

 

I only have the room for a 5x9 foot table, and am trying to squeeze the most diversity in, like two trains running on two ovals. It's very basic- only have two 022 switches. I really only need one reliable switch, and have seen the 153ir is still available. The only reason I was considering it is that every now and then the 153C fails to shut the power off on the center rail of one of two sections of insulated track blocks, and one train will eventually catch up to the other. I naturally stand by the controls to avoid a collision, but that kinda defeats the purpose. I want a reliable consistent multi train operation. All I was asking is if anyone that has had any experience with the infrared 153ir, found it to be more reliable than the old mechanical switch??

 

Have you considered insulated outside rails to control the blocks?

 

WOW- NO- I never thought of that! Any reason why? I just followed the old Lionel way of Multiple Train Operation, insulating the center rail. What am I missing?

 

You can stop a train by isolating both outside rails from the connecting tracks (the outside rails remain connected to each other on the isolated track) . Then another train can power it when it passes a single isolated rail. When the train connects the single isolated rail to ground via it's wheel set, a wire transfers that ground connection to the double isolated outside rails. That provides the missing ground on the double isolated rail section and the stopped train will move.

 

You can stop a train by isolating both outside rails from the connecting tracks (the outside rails remain connected to each other on the isolated track) . Then another train can power it when it passes a single isolated rail. When the train connects the single isolated rail to ground via it's wheel set, a wire transfers that ground connection to the double isolated outside rails. That provides the missing ground on the double isolated rail section and the stopped train will move.


View attachment 545642

This sounds much better than the troublesome 153C contactor! Thanks!
-Jim

 

I have these. A 10 amp relay triggered by an insulated rail, offers both occupied and unoccupied power output. Flexible wiring allows you to use track power only, aux and track power, or aux power only. Developed for driving signals, but will switch track power with the 10A relay.

Insulated Track Signal Driver Rev. 2.pdf

 

I have these. A 10 amp relay triggered by an insulated rail, offers both occupied and unoccupied power output. Flexible wiring allows you to use track power only, aux and track power, or aux power only. Developed for driving signals, but will switch track power with the 10A relay.

Insulated Track Signal Driver Rev. 2.pdf
View attachment 545646

Wow! Yet another more reliable multi-train solution and more!
Goodbye 153C contactor!
Much thanks,
Jim

 

I realize this is an old post but want to throw the question out there.
May 2011 Classic Toy Trains paragraph titled Wiring the circuit. All the outside rails to U ground. Normal. But it reads “except within the established blocks, all but the center rails to A hot.
Huh??
Been trying to figure this out, why would you want to wire outside rails that are normally ground to hot?

 

I think it should read connect all the center rails within the blocks to A hot, the but must be a typo.

 

Here is another possibility from the O Gauge discussion forum, https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/topic.../video-z-stuff-dz-1012-block-detector-controls-two-o-gauge-trains-on-1-mainline

Why I was banned from their forum is beyond me, but attached is the image using a Z-Stuff relay 1008A and block detector, very simple and upfront. If I am correct the relay is a SPDT, if they are hard to come by this might work, would have to figure out how it compares to the Z-Stuff relay. Should be a very common item available at a reliable jobber auto parts store such as a locally owned NAPA.
85 and 86 are the coil, (red and black) 87a is NC, (white) 30 is common (blue), not sure what the green wire is for on the Z-Stuff relay.

85 to number one on the bussbar
86 to number two on the bussbar
30 to number four on the bussbar
87a to number six on the bussbar



The Z-Stuff signals all appear to be wired the same, one would not have to use the block detector, they could use one of their other signal towers.

Feel free to critique, throw out ideas, corrections,

 

On a different note ... here's a generic station stop diagram using cheap Arduino modules from AliExpress; less than 6 dollars for both including shipping and tax. You can see it in operation in This Video from my YouTube library.

These same modules can be used in conjunction with isolated rails to implement dual train control, accessory activation, etc. The only issue … waiting for "The Slow Boat from China" to get them: 4 to 6 weeks.

A little thought and most all train control can be built very simply with these modules. Here's a Video activating a postwar crossing buck with realistic alternating lights for use with an isolated rail. Albeit I actually modified the delay relay (added a resistor) to get the alternating effect.

 

Interesting, I always thought Ali Express was a listing of sellers.

 

One of the simplest ideas I have seen, as long as the oncoming train has enough space to let the departing train leave the block.