Hi,

I’ve owned a Lionel 221 since the early 80s and it was always missing the right side valve gear eccentric rod. A few months ago, I bought a replacement part. It installed easily and apparently required no adjustment.

At slow speeds, there is never a problem, but if the locomotive runs at about 50% or more, the rod will eventually bow outwards until I can stop it to bend it back in…or the shoulder screw pops out (not the easiest thing to find).

I have tried oiling all of the rivets and screws and lubed the cylinder where the piston enters. Nothing seems to help. I suspect this issue is probably the reason why the rod was absent in the first place - I just don’t know what’s causing it or how to correct it.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Rick

ltant bowing?
Can you possibly provide a video of the engine running and the resultant bowing?

 

It could be part of the eccentric crank that has a 90-degree piece that rides over the crosshead.
A comparison picture of both sides removed and placed next to each other may help.

Also observe the dragging and rotate the wheels slow by hand to see if there is a hang up point and file it down.

The screw has to stay in place. Use locktite or even a little white glue. The rod should not catch on that screw.

The rod inserting into the steam chest should not reach the other side.

 

Maybe issue with threads on shoulder screw?

Train Tender shows screw on his website

 

Guys, thank you for the feedback.

I haven’t taken a picture of the damage yet because I haven’t had a chance to test it on the track again...but I think you guys are right.

I can only tighten the screw to a certain point before it, for lack of a better term, jumps, and I have to start tightening it again. I also noticed today that the screw rotates back and forth with the rod when I move the wheels with my finger. The screw on the left side does not move nearly as much

I think what is probably happening that the screw loosens with speed, the end of the rod moves out of position and probably starts hitting the cylinder where it shouldn‘t. That causes the bent rod and eventually leads to the screw popping out.

I had ordered a 227-67, but I know it was a remanufactured part made of a non-magnetic metal (which makes it very hard to find when dropped). It also doesn’t look exactly like the presumably original screw on the left side. Proportionately, the threads don’t look as thick as the screw in the picture Bob provided.

There’s a store in the neighboring suburb that carries a lot of old parts. I’ll reach out to see if they happen to have one of those handy - if not, I’ll give Train Tender a try.

Thanks again.

 

If you have trouble sourcing a replacement (or if the screw is fine but the threads in the hole are worn), you might want to try the suggestion of LocTite to lessen the tendence of the screw to turn in the hole. Not the ideal solution, perhaps, but may get you through without having to redrill and tap the hole, if that's the problem . . .

 

The local store didn’t have the shoulder screw, so I ordered from Jeff at TrainTender. The replacement screw he sent fit much better and I haven’t had any problems since.

Thanks for the help everyone.

 

Love the 221s

 

Those wheels look a lot better then I ever expected.

 

Another look for ya Mike (For give me for showing off)

I bought a sheet of metal to try to make some Scullin disc drivers for another 221.
I think the white wheels came out great, did a 2026 also if you remember and it came out looking good too. And if you don’t remember well. . . . . . But I only did the rims on the 2026

Here are some real ones with white wheels