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Need advice on "Dry Transfers" (Rub On)

2.8K views 14 replies 6 participants last post by  llskis  
#1 ·
I see where Portlines has the above for the A/F Tenders. Has anbody used them? How close to they look like from the originals? Do they come off easy?Thanks Larry:dunno:
 
#2 ·
I've used dry-transfers on my Lionels quite a bit ... individual letters and numerals, placed together (by me) to spell out words, number sequences. I put a row of low-stick tape (post-it, for example) directly above/below my "target field" for the text, and then pre-mark the intended letter spacing. Then, I carefully position each letter in that target (usually starting from the middle, and then working outward), and then rub on. I use just a plain old wood toothpick to rub. I take my time, but I've been very, very pleased with the results. I think they look as good as (or even better) than the original rubber stamped text. Here's a couple of examples ...









I can't recall having to remove a letter, though I suspect it's possible. If the loco or car were to be heavily handles, one might consider clear-coating on top of the letters to seal and protect them further.

Hope that helps.

TJ
 
#3 ·
I've used dry transfers (not the ones you mention) for quite a few things and been satisfied with the results. They're pretty darned durable, but as TJ says, careful alignment is key- and clear-coat on top will make it pretty much permanent.
 
#5 ·
Careful placement is the key. I've used dry transfers for quite awhile and they're great.I have some on my AF tenders but they're packed away, and I'm not about to try and dig them out,lol..They are buried, somewhere.
 
#8 ·
TJ: Thanks for the info. Have read it and learned a few things. Still would like to see a A/F tender that had the dry transfer done if anybody has one. Also; any idea how AC Gilbert did the markings at the factory? Where they painted/stamped some how? Thanks; Larry
 
#10 ·
Certainly not a slam against PortLines, but the rubber stamp method is VERY hard to do, correctly..I had numerous stamps, and just couldn't get the handle on it. I sold everything I had on ebay, and went with dry rub transfers. You don't get a "factory" appearance with transfers as the edges are so very crisp, unlike the feathered edges of factory stampings. To each his own.. Again, not a slam against PortLines and Doug Peck.. He has great products, and us S guys would be in a world of hurt without him and his great company.. A big thank you to him...:appl:
 
#11 ·
I'll echo nut's opinion, above. I've "retagged" with dry-transfers (my 221 above, for example), for that very reason ... it's very hard to get crisp, nice looking lettering with a stamp. My hand is certainly not that steady.

I'll take dry-transfer lettters ... not purist, but much crisper, I think!

(Good post, 'Nut.)

TJ
 
#14 ·
From Doug Peck's Port Lines Home page....

"9/22/2013--- We are forced to DISCONTINUE our extensive line of rubber stamps for use in AF restorations. Our stamp manufacturer closed their doors and sold all their equipment without notice. Unfortunately, apparently along with it went all our artwork! We have been unable to track it down, and the cost of stamp manufacture with other sources we have checked is much higher. So we will continue to market existing inventory while it lasts, but there will be nothing new made, and no re-stock as we deplete inventory."

Note that was over a year ago. However now I visited the section for Rubber Stamps and they are offering the service at their shop, $15 total ($7.50/side). Just send a cleaned up, painted, ready for stamping shell. They also have a lot of stamps still in stock and there is an AF Clinic added pertaining to lettering options, including stamping items. So maybe the rubber stamps aren't quite a dead issue just yet...?
 
#15 ·
Just a quick word on the engine stamps:

If a train supply company like Portlines can not get what you want; any office supply commpay of any size can make you up anything you want as far as size/font/numbers. Larry