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Discussion starter · #81 ·
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While I was building the woodwork, I was still thinking about the track design. I decided to test what I wanted to do in the Southern part of the layout.
It is a bit complex because the main line will come at a 45-degree angle and open into 5-6 tracks. I could organise everything in the above image using the #6 Kato turnout. Most of my turnouts are #6. I have used the #4 option, but I have had a few problems with some locos derailing. Therefore, as much as I can, I prefer to use the #6 turnout.
The yard should have space for trains with 5-6 cars. I tested the design with a 5-car train, and I see I have plenty of space. The space I have for this part is approximately 160 cm long and 50 cm wide.
The design works fine, and I can continue with the construction; I am sure when I get there, the design will change.
 
View attachment 639340
While I was building the woodwork, I was still thinking about the track design. I decided to test what I wanted to do in the Southern part of the layout.
It is a bit complex because the main line will come at a 45-degree angle and open into 5-6 tracks. I could organise everything in the above image using the #6 Kato turnout. Most of my turnouts are #6. I have used the #4 option, but I have had a few problems with some locos derailing. Therefore, as much as I can, I prefer to use the #6 turnout.
The yard should have space for trains with 5-6 cars. I tested the design with a 5-car train, and I see I have plenty of space. The space I have for this part is approximately 160 cm long and 50 cm wide.
The design works fine, and I can continue with the construction; I am sure when I get there, the design will change.
I used #4 and its power switching function. It allow trains to stay in sidings. Power switching current capacity is limited and the entrance turnout would fail. Smaller yard works ok. I had no significant derailment problem with #4.
 
Discussion starter · #84 · (Edited)
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I bought one plywood and one foam board to start playing with to create the base of the layout. In the east section of the layout, I plan to have a helix that connects to 3 different levels; therefore, I need plywood in that area to support the helix. In other parts, I can use foam.
My train club members advised me that foam is better for noise and modelling terrain. Modelling terrain was not a big part of my previous layout, so I want to change this for this one and learn how to model it correctly.
Although both boards are supposed to be 0.5 inches, these actually have a small difference in height. I concluded I needed to put a small 3 mm piece below the plywood to have the same height as the foamy. This created some additional work for the base. I don't mind; I enjoy working with wood. One thought for this layout is that I am not in a hurry. I want to do all the things right and with quality, even if it takes me more time.
 
Discussion starter · #85 ·
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Initially, I planned a lower level for storage of the boxes. I used the height of the Kato
train’s storage boxes to calculate the distance between levels. After a few days of planning and considering what has happened in previous layouts, I always decide to build layout extensions to other levels. I decided to use the lower level for a future extension. It would be storage at the beginning, and one day, when I am done with the main level, I will build a second helix to go down and connect to this level. I haven't decided what I am going to do at that level. What I have in mind is parking for my many non-American trains. I will generally run US and Canadian trains at that main level, but if I want to change, I can bring up some of the lower-level Shinkansen or European trains to the main level.
I will work on the scenery later; however, I wanted to paint the plywood and foam with a base colour first. I decided on brawn, thinking it would be a good yard base colour.
Another challenge was that I needed to leave space to change the AC filter. I had to create the layout around it.
 
Discussion starter · #86 ·
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After many calculations using the measures found in Kato’s catalogue, I ordered a circle of each of the three curved double-track radios to test the helices.
The first picture will be the primary helix. It will have six lines to go up three levels, with a 10 cm height difference between each level. I have built several helices, but always with two tracks. This will be the first one with more than two tracks and multiple levels. The second picture is for the helix that will connect the lower-level extension. It will be a regular two-track helix; however, it must go down 35 cm. It will be long!
As I mentioned, this is for the future extension to the lower-level high-speed trains parking. I am unsure how long it would take me to complete the main level to get to the extension.
 
Discussion starter · #87 ·
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I bought more plywood and completed what I needed for the East side. There is a slight difference in height between the plywood and the foam. I need to include an additional 3 mm of wood below the main plywood base to have an even surface and avoid problems with the track that will cause derailment.
I also arranged the tables for the three control centers. I think it is better to have different places for the turnout switches. I like having them close to the turnout for three reasons: first, you are closer to the action and can see the trains you are running while they pass the turnouts; second, you reduce the length of the cables; and third, you need fewer switches together. This makes it easy to identify the one you need to use while operating. I am happy with the progress, but I still have a lot of work.
 
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View attachment 639632

I bought more plywood and completed what I needed for the East side. There is a slight difference in height between the plywood and the foam. I need to include an additional 3 mm of wood below the main plywood base to have an even surface and avoid problems with the track that will cause derailment.
I also arranged the tables for the three control centers. I think it is better to have different places for the turnout switches. I like having them close to the turnout for three reasons: first, you are closer to the action and can see the trains you are running while they pass the turnouts; second, you reduce the length of the cables; and third, you need fewer switches together. This makes it easy to identify the one you need to use while operating. I am happy with the progress, but I still have a lot of work.
You are certainly not wasting any time, lol! Fantastic progress. (y):cool:
 
Discussion starter · #91 ·
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I got excited about building the main level, so I procrastinated finishing the first level. In previous layouts, I have always left some places that become very difficult to get after I have everything in place. I didn’t want to repeat my error, so I identified a critical point in the South-West corner of the layout.
I decided to build a small entrance on the base that would allow me to move the necessary inches closer to the layout and get to the corner; I had to create a few additional cuts and build the wood bench at a 45-degree angle. This was the first time I did this, and it wasn't that hard.
I am happy with the result; it looks good and does the job. I will need to repeat this at the main level. My idea at that level is to use a double-track Tomix bridge to connect the tracks over that space. If I need to get to the corner of the layout, I can easily remove the bridge, do what I need, and put it back in place.
The Tomix bridge is more than 50 cm long, more than double the length of the Kato bridges I normally use. The challenge is to find one; Tomix is not very easy to find in the US.
 
Discussion starter · #93 ·
Smallest double track and 10cm rise per loop will be very steep.
You are right. This is what I had in my previous layout. I know the Kato trains can handle it. Also, I know it doesn’t look realistic, but I am more into running trains than designing something that looks 100% real.
 
Discussion starter · #94 ·
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After completing the lower level, I returned to working on the main level. I needed to add some base color to the layout before putting the boards in their final location. I decided to use brawn for yards and green for the area where I will have the Kato Unitram city and the helix. This would not be the final color; it is only the base before the scenery. The Unitram City will cover much of the green area, but I don't mind. I prefer to paint everything to complete it while I build the city.
I also started installing the layout fascia. I am using 3 mm wood I found at Home Depot; I like the color, and I think it looks professional.
This is the first time I am including a fascia on my layouts. I want to include holders for the DCC controllers, cup holders for my coffee, and small boxes to hold the necessary tools.
 
Discussion starter · #95 ·
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I had good progress after painting the plywood and foam pieces and putting these in their place; I still haven't fixed them to the main structure with screws or glue; I want to make sure everything fits well before making things permanent. I like that one cannot see the difference between plywood and foam when painted.
I also brought a Unitram circle from home and bought two new Kato Unitram turnouts. These have been difficult to find in the last few years; however, Kato is producing new ones. They changed the reference number, but they look the same. I am also starting to test the layout of the freight yard.
Things are starting to take shape!
 
Discussion starter · #96 ·
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I continue testing my design. The passenger yard on the right side of the picture and the freight yard on the left side seem to work fine. I bought the Kato freight yard set and two container car sets to test the yard's length. The passenger yard appears long enough for my longest trains, the Union Pacific excursion trains, and the Southern Pacific Daylight Express.
One of the most complex parts of the layout will be the three-level helix. I got one circle of each double-track radio. The measurements are all right, and it fits well in the layout. I would need to design the height of the helix later carefully. The smaller circle is the same radius I have used in previous layouts; therefore, I am confident it would work.
 
Discussion starter · #97 ·
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After completing the baseboard for the West section, the next challenge is to build the transition to the South section. This is a tricky part of the layout because all the lines coming from the helix will need to use it to continue their way into the design.
I also designed the second level of the layout (10 cm height). At the south section, I will use Kato station platforms to allow three tracks to go together, a combination of Kato and Faller bridges and some mountains.
The height of the green circuit will change between 10 cm and 5 cm. I am testing different Kato and Faller supports for this.
 
Discussion starter · #98 ·

Okay. Although I continue to be in the planning and construction stages, I wanted to see some trains running.
I modified the design of the West section to create a complete circle of track and put my latest Kato acquisition to test the track. I am using DC for now. It is great to see the train running on the layout, and I am happy with my current design. I still have some small details to change, but things are going in the right direction.
 
Discussion starter · #100 ·
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To clarify, I am posting the construction process in chronological order; it is not that I am working every day and showing each day's progress; I started the layout during the Thanksgiven week when I had a week off from work and also made good progress during the Christmas break when I had two weeks off. At some point, my posts will get to where I am now, and I will have to wait a few days to show real progress.
After having fun running some DC trains, I started the construction of the South side of the layout. I put the second control center table in place and began to cut the wood for this highest level of the layout. As a reminder, in this part, I will have three terrain levels, each with a 1.5-inch difference. I am producing these using the height of my wood pillars. The first level has one level of wood, the second level has two layers, and the third level has three. The design and construction are interesting; you need to think about the height of each level for every part. It is a bit of three-dimensional thinking and very different from my previous layouts, where I only had one level.
 
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