doesn't make much difference , code 100 is a little easier to acquire, especially on ebay

 

Rails in yard tracks are usually of a lighter
weight and they don't 'stand' as tall as the
main line. Also, very often the stub and
yard tracks don't get much in the way of maintenance,
That means the ties are often covered by dirt, gravel,
ashes and weeds.

I used code 100 in both my main and yards but
the main was on road bed while the yard was
flat on the surface. The roadbed and ballast gave
the mains that well maintained look while the
debris and clutter defined the work areas.

If you have difficulty getting the code track you
want, you might 'fake' it as I did.

Don


t

 

I agree with wvgca. I think code 100 is a little more rugged but code 83 looks a lot nicer. Unfortunately supply chain issues are alive and well. Altas track is popular so there will likely be availability issues for different items at various times. However, Atlas seems to be doing a pretty good job of replenishing stock.

 

Either code 100, or code 83, will work fine. The code 83 just looks a bit more realistic, since the rail is closer to scale size.
You say you want to build a switching layout with Atlas track. Did you plan on using Atlas "turnouts" (track switches) too? Atlas makes two different lines of HO-scale turnouts, "Custom Line" and "Snap Switches." The Custom line turnouts are better than the truly bad Snap Switches, however, there are other brands of turnouts are much better than either of the Atlas types. Peco, Micro Engineering, or Walthers, would all be better choices. The file "All about turnouts" explains the differences.

Since its to be a switching layout, reliable switches will be a must. If you do end up going with Atlas, the second file, "Improving Atlas turnouts" shows how you can make them more reliable. Many of the modifications in that file can, and in my opinion should, be done on other brands, not just Atlas.

Good Luck & Have Fun;

Traction Fan 🙂

 

Either code 100, or code 83, will work fine. The code 83 just looks a bit more realistic, since the rail is closer to scale size.
You say you want to build a switching layout with Atlas track. Did you plan on using Atlas "turnouts" (track switches) too? Atlas makes two different lines of HO-scale turnouts, "Custom Line" and "Snap Switches." The Custom line turnouts are better than the truly bad Snap Switches, however, there are other brands of turnouts are much better than either of the Atlas types. Peco, Micro Engineering, or Walthers, would all be better choices. The file "All about turnouts" explains the differences.

Since its to be a switching layout, reliable switches will be a must. If you do end up going with Atlas, the second file, "Improving Atlas turnouts" shows how you can make them more reliable. Many of the modifications in that file can, and in my opinion should, be done on other brands, not just Atlas.

Good Luck & Have Fun;

Traction Fan 🙂

Ok so far code 100 looks more apealing

 

i would recommend code 100 track with customline switches, funny enough it would be the same as i have on a 1890s 15foot by 16 foot layout

 

Another vote for code 100. I have heard issues with debree derailing cars on code 83 track if you;re not meticulous with keeping the right of way clean, of every spec of that scene you just detailed or the stray toothpick...it can be problematic is all I am saying. Most code 100 track is usually less expensive the code 83 I have found. I am modeling realism by the way and I am NOT seeing a big difference in the way either look thought code 83 is more to the real standard scale.
My 2 cents, thanks for asking!

 

Yep. Code 100 way more available than 83. The former is normally cheaper too.
Code 83 indeed looks more realistic but, if you are going use any, to many older trains, the deep wheel flanges on them have issues with code 83 depth. Obnoxious clickity clack on tie spikes and likely derailments too.
Yes, one can swap out the wheel sets on rolling stock. Not usually possible with Locomotives though.

 

With a good paint & ballast job on code 100 track, it looks about as realistic as anything else out there. Nothing wrong with that. I'd have no qualms over using it if I ever build another HO layout.

 

Ok so its decided Code 100 it is

 

Get a good nights sleep NorthwestPennsyGuy because tomorrow you'll second guess your decision (like me!). Just kidding.... not really....

 

note to self DO NOT SECOND GUESS YOURSELF

 

I'm using Code 100 for mainline and 83 for sidings and yards, after having tested all my rolling stock on 83. The only issue was an ancient saddletank 060 that was practically a tinplate toy in appearence, and that wouldn't dare show its face on any layout of mine anyway. "Clickety clack, don't talk back!"

 

If you are all code 100, its difficult to tell. Mix code 100 and code 83, or 83 and 70 and things would be noticeable. Another vote for what is available.

 

I got quite a bit of code 100 NS Atlas track, a number of #4 turnouts, sealed, factory new. I don't intent to be using this stuff as I am going off in another direction. If interested, throw me a PM and I can send you photos of all that might interest you. Willing to sell at a substantial discount, better than what you will find on eBay or elsewhere.

If I don't move it, it will just rot.

If interested, got a substantial pile of Atlas Code 83 TruTrack, most of it in good condition. Also at substantial discount below eBay rates.

I've heard tell that less than code 100 may not be compatible with the flanges on older Rivarossi, but that is hearsay. The smaller codes are for modellers intent on moving towards a photoreal look.

 

I've heard tell that less than code 100 may not be compatible with the flanges on older Rivarossi

Just for grins I dug out that old clickety clack saddletank 060 that doesn't like code 83, and sure enough, it's a Rivarossi.

 

For the record, I tried substituting Atlas code 100 for Hornby code 100 for my British OO layout and had a lot of trouble with clearances, some of it flanges bouncing on "spike heads" and some of it in frogways of both turnouts and crossings.

 

If there is ever the possibility to integrate the switching layout into a future layout, that might add something to consider, planning wise.
I dislike code 100 personally. I find it obnoxiously oversized. That said, I don’t like sidings being the same size rail. Even with being set lower than the main, smaller rail looks better.

This is why I like Central Valley ties. They fit together to be one long continuous piece of ties, as long as you want. Rail is added separately, which is easy to do, and the ties accommodate code 83 and 70 rail. Code 55 can be gauged to fit as well. Code 100 does not. Lastly, you can put rail joints where ever you please, and unsightly rail joiners are not needed at all. Insulating them without having unsightly plastic joiners or gaps is a cinch with a dab of glue.
Think of it as “kit” track, it’s not pre-assembled, but it’s not as involved as hand laying track either. You can paint and ballast ties before rail (or turnout points) are installed… That’s kind of a game changer.

 

If there is ever the possibility to integrate the switching layout into a future layout, that might add something to consider, planning wise.
I dislike code 100 personally. I find it obnoxiously oversized. That said, I don’t like sidings being the same size rail. Even with being set lower than the main, smaller rail looks better.

This is why I like Central Valley ties. They fit together to be one long continuous piece of ties, as long as you want. Rail is added separately, which is easy to do, and the ties accommodate code 83 and 70 rail. Code 55 can be gauged to fit as well. Code 100 does not. Lastly, you can put rail joints where ever you please, and unsightly rail joiners are not needed at all. Insulating them without having unsightly plastic joiners or gaps is a cinch with a dab of glue.
Think of it as “kit” track, it’s not pre-assembled, but it’s not as involved as hand laying track either. You can paint and ballast ties before rail (or turnout points) are installed… That’s kind of a game changer.

Very interesting.....First time I've seen these. May have to try some.

 

I use CV ties. I can't imagine doing it differently. I use Pilobond contact cement to glue the rail down. its nice to paint the ties before the rail ever gets put on, then there is no cleaning paint or ballast glue off the rail. I also use a PC tie to get power to the rail with all the wires hidden under the tie

 

If you go C100 be very sure you're not buying the old old brass rail Snap Track. Brass oxidizes a green mold which causes stall outs and much more frequent cleaning due to..Also, I think there is Atlas/Peco C100 with brown ties..If so that's what you want..Again, old SnapTrack, aside from nonpowerable black plastic frogs, its black ties are out of scale, being too wide each, causing them to be too close to one another. In other words avoid old black tied brass railled C100 Snap Track...
And as others have pointed out C83 is closer to scale and has brown, in scale ties, and nickel silver rail.
This is just me, but, C100 looks/is too tall rail at near 12 scale inches, whereas C83 is closer to 9 scale inches, like the 1:1 scale heavy main line. Yet, if you're running 1950s designed locos and cars, they commonly have very deep flanges some call 'pizza cutters'. These do need the taller C100 so that the deep flanges don't bottom out colliding with the spike heads...
There are tons on C83 and C100 on eBay..Just be very careful it's not Snap Track...
Good luck in all your endeavors.. 🛤🌵

 

Ouchies, ouchies. I've used brass for many a season. It cleans up well with a light rubbing of Wahl's Hair Clipper Oil. At the time, I favored the buttery patina of brass. True, for the modeller who wants photo real, the foot high rail won't really cut the mustard. BTW, I am selling ton of the stuff, probably about half of it is brass. I will charge extra for green mold, however. You can tell your friends it is HO scale lichen, or something. See For Sale eBay if interested.

I did put in an order for $700 worth of Bachmann EZ track to replace it. This might seem odd, but I found the stuff works superbly well with my vintage British collection, so much better than OO set track. That I never expected.

 

Brass and steel track (especially the latter) are like the old cotton-wrapped aluminum wires: yes, it works, but it comes with a host of disadvantages that the higher quality / newer technology doesn't have. New products are generally developed to resolve deficiencies with the older ones, not because the older ones don't work. That's why the incandescent lightbulb lasted more than 100 years, and the spring mousetrap is still a thing.

 

ew products are generally developed to resolve deficiencies with the older ones, not because the older ones don't work. That's why the incandescent lightbulb lasted more than 100 years, and the spring mousetrap is still a thing.

Ouchies, ouchies. I've used brass for many a season. It cleans up well with a light rubbing of Wahl's Hair Clipper Oil. At the time, I favored the buttery patina of brass. True, for the modeller who wants photo real, the foot high rail won't really cut the mustard. BTW, I am selling ton of the stuff, probably about half of it is brass. I will charge extra for green mold, however. You can tell your friends it is HO scale lichen, or something. See For Sale eBay if interested.

I did put in an order for $700 worth of Bachmann EZ track to replace it. This might seem odd, but I found the stuff works superbly well with my vintage British collection, so much better than OO set track. That I never expected.

huh also where is that ebay listing i can't find it

 

“Spring mouse trap” 😂😂😂 Excellent analogy. It is at the very least, instant. 😳😵

 

Atlas Model Turnout #4, #6, and Y. Brass. Good condition. | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Atlas Model Turnout #4, #6, and Y. Brass. Good condition. at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

Once here, click on "see seller's other items." I got a LOT of track and switches going up for sale. Sold the five #4's NOS for $40, which is less than $10 each. Seriously, brass is fine, JMOP. Potential here to do a banging switch layout for under $50.

 

i am buying

 

Like I say, you can use cheapo isopropyl alcohol to clean up brass, and it works fine, used to cost 19 cents a bottle, but I prefer Wahl Hair Clipper oil, available at Sally's Beauty Supply or other such shops, for about $3 a bottle, which will last a decade. The Wahl's strips grime like no other, and when wiped off will leave a micro film of oil that prevents oxidization for months and months of use. Safe on plastic, traction tires, and won't affect traction- but if it does, just give it a quick dry wipe and you're back in business.

On the other hand, if you yearn for the protoreal look, go with 70 or 55. But for solid reliable, good looking track, nothing wrong with code 100 brass.

 

But for solid reliable, good looking track, nothing wrong with code 100 brass.

That's certainly open to debate. Everyone can and should do what they like, but for my personal preferences, I could name half a dozen problems with it.

 

You can transition from both if you want to, or like me, have added onto a original layout of code 100 expanded with code 80 & 70.