[tboy]

Ordered new speaker and will replace as soon as it arrives. I have a couple of other questions on this MTH Railking locomotive. First, I'm using a Lionel ZW 275 transformer(run coventional mode) which has the horn button. Works great with the MTH. I understand with Loco Sound there is also a bell that can be activated. I have a Lionel activation button and wired it according to the directions but no bell, no sound at all. I've been searching previous posts and haven't really found anything that would really help me. It is possible to activate the bell? Second, the previous owner did a repair to the boiler front and used some green colored product to re-attach the front. It would look a lot better if I could paint the area. It is a light grey color. Anyone know where I can get some of this paint color? Also, the light is very dim and I'm wondering if the light is at the right position in the boiler? I've tried to find diagrams or good pictures of the front of a MTH Railking steam locomotive that would confirm it is correct. Appreciate the feedback. I know I count alot on your expertise.

tboy

 

[C_Breeze_373]

Hello there. My RailKing Pacific (from a trainset, with LocoSound as well) does have a bell, but the button needs to be held for a moment or two for it to activate. Everything looks good with the headlight; if it's dim maybe try cleaning out the bulb socket with a Qtip? Could be a poor connection. I usually use a Qtip and some electrical contact cleaner (on the Qtip) to clean bulb sockets and similar items. Not sure about the touchup paint, sorry. For reference here's a photo of my LocoSound steamer's chassis, with a similar headlight/smoke unit bracket:

 

[gunrunnerjohn]

If the headlight is dim, I'd suspect someone probably replaced it with the wrong voltage, those small base bulbs come in 6V, 12V, and 18V, I have all three.

 

[C_Breeze_373]

That's a good point, I didn't even think of that. I believe that a 6 volt bulb is correct for most of the RailKing steamers. I ended up buying some 6 volt, #378 bulbs online for mine. I think the MTH part number is CA0000038 for the original 6 volt headlight bulb for the 2-8-0.

 

[gunrunnerjohn]

PS/2 and Locosound Railking would have a 6V bulb, PS/1 many times has a 12-14V bulb. Of course, PS/3 has LED's for all lights.

 

[tboy]

I’m away from home right now but will return next week. I certainly will check the bulb and change if that’s the case. It helps that a picture of the bulb location is provided. My memory is that my bracket is higher than yours. I concerned that it has been modified. Will get back to y’all next week. Thanks for the help. Will try again with holding down the bell button for a longer period. Thanks again.

ted

 

[C_Breeze_373]

No problem, happy to try and help . In hindsight I forgot that I indeed have a similar MTH 2-8-0 in the "dungeon"/basement. My original pic was a similar loco, but with a different headlight support. I suppose it's possible that someone bent the bracket getting the shell on at some point, but if the bracket is square should be good to go:

Plus, if the puffing smoke exits the stack, everything should be in alignment, as the headlight bracket does double duty to support the smoke unit as well. Good luck with your locomotive, mine's a good runner.

 

[tboy]

No problem, happy to try and help . In hindsight I forgot that I indeed have a similar MTH 2-8-0 in the "dungeon"/basement. My original pic was a similar loco, but with a different headlight support. I suppose it's possible that someone bent the bracket getting the shell on at some point, but if the bracket is square should be good to go:

View attachment 648061

Plus, if the puffing smoke exits the stack, everything should be in alignment, as the headlight bracket does double duty to support the smoke unit as well. Good luck with your locomotive, mine's a good runner.

Thanks for the pic. It will help when I get back from a little vacation to the East Coast (Maine right now). I'm from Louisiana and enjoying the sites here. This will help because I believe that my bracket is at 90 degrees like in your pic. When I get back, I certainly will check all things out.

 

[tboy]

PS/2 and Locosound Railking would have a 6V bulb, PS/1 many times has a 12-14V bulb. Of course, PS/3 has LED's for all lights.

John,
Replaced the speaker as per you excellent recommendation and while I was installing the new one, noticed these two wires, a red and a black(see pic) I'm wondering if perhaps there was a battery that has been removed. To be honest, the screws holding the board still has the material that they use to show that the board hasn't been tampered with. When I look up the engine, it say PS/2. I certainly am not an expert, just the opposite. Just confused. Appreciate your help and input. Set me straight.

Take care,
ted

 

[gunrunnerjohn]

John,
Replaced the speaker as per you excellent recommendation and while I was installing the new one, noticed these two wires, a red and a black(see pic) I'm wondering if perhaps there was a battery that has been removed. To be honest, the screws holding the board still has the material that they use to show that the board hasn't been tampered with. When I look up the engine, it say PS/2. I certainly am not an expert, just the opposite. Just confused. Appreciate your help and input. Set me straight.

Take care,
ted

The Locosound engines don't have a battery, so it's not for a battery. What I can tell you for sure is the board that is in the locomotive is NOT a PS/2, it is a Locosound board. I have no idea if someone replaced the PS/2 board when it failed with a Locosound board, the wiring is very similar.

 

[tboy]

The Locosound engines don't have a battery, so it's not for a battery. What I can tell you for sure is the board that is in the locomotive is NOT a PS/2, it is a Locosound board. I have no idea if someone replaced the PS/2 board when it failed with a Locosound board, the wiring is very similar.

Thank you John. I replaced the speaker as you suggested and that's when I saw the red and black wire so I thought that that may have been for the battery. It chugs, smokes and the horn blows which I doubt would happen if it was indeed a PS/2 board. Haven't been able to get the bell sound yet even though I install a Lionel sound activation button and have held it down as was suggested. I am ordering a new bulb again as per your suggestion. The bulb is very dim which leads me to believe it is not a 6 volt bulb, again as you figured was the case. Thanks for your help. I value it as I do the suggestions other offer. The help here is fantastic.

ted

 

[gunrunnerjohn]

Thank you John. I replaced the speaker as you suggested and that's when I saw the red and black wire so I thought that that may have been for the battery. It chugs, smokes and the horn blows which I doubt would happen if it was indeed a PS/2 board. Haven't been able to get the bell sound yet even though I install a Lionel sound activation button and have held it down as was suggested. I am ordering a new bulb again as per your suggestion. The bulb is very dim which leads me to believe it is not a 6 volt bulb, again as you figured was the case. Thanks for your help. I value it as I do the suggestions other offer. The help here is fantastic.

ted

Hard to say about the bell, but I suspect something about the sound activation button isn't giving enough DC offset to trigger the bell.

 

[tboy]

Hard to say about the bell, but I suspect something about the sound activation button isn't giving enough DC offset to trigger the bell.

Thanks. I haven't given up. Will try another activation button.

 

[tboy]

Changed the bulb but it didn't help. I could see that the boiler face had been changed. I assumed it was with one that went with that engine--well you know what it means when you assume. I found some pictures of the locomotive and a different face was installed with some cutting and body repair putty-not an excellent job-I will work on that. What is happening is that the bulb is too high for the locomotive light because the replacement front light is lower than what it is supposed to be. Since it's certainly not factory, I installed some LED strip lights and it looks like it should--just don't open the boiler front-lol. I still am not able to get the bell to ring but I'm working on it. Just wanted to update all of you that helped. Thanks again,

ted

 

[Millstonemike]

Thanks. I haven't given up. Will try another activation button.

Do you have a postwar transformer with a working whistle button? Use that but reverse the transformer leads to the outside and center rails. That will reverse the DC offset to the loco to ring the bell.

 

[tboy]

Do you have a postwar transformer with a working whistle button? Use that but reverse the transformer leads to the outside and center rails. That will reverse the DC offset to the loco to ring the bell.

Mike,
I am understanding this correctly, take the track connector and instead of putting it on the outside and middle rails, place it where the inside and middle rails are used, then by pressing the Lionel signal activation switch button, this should make the bell ring? The horn button on the ZW transformer does make the horn sound as it should. I will try this asap. Thanks for the suggestion if that is what you actually are suggesting. Am I correct? BTW, if it works, I'll let you know.

ted

 

[Millstonemike]

Mike,
I am understanding this correctly, take the track connector and instead of putting it on the outside and middle rails, place it where the inside and middle rails are used, then by pressing the Lionel signal activation switch button, this should make the bell ring? The horn button on the ZW transformer does make the horn sound as it should. I will try this asap. Thanks for the suggestion if that is what you actually are suggesting. Am I correct? BTW, if it works, I'll let you know.

ted

Nada. Leave your lock-on in place and switch the wires from the ZW to it (i.e. ZW common terminal D to inside rail and throttle terminal A to outside rail). That will reverse the DC bias to the track. So the ZW's whistle/horn button becomes a bell button. This is just to test whether your activation switch is the problem. If the bell rings it's issues with the switch. If it doesn't, issue within the loco to activate the bell. After the test, switch the ZW terminals back to stand track wiring.

 

[tboy]

Nada. Leave your lock-on in place and switch the wires from the ZW to it (i.e. ZW common terminal D to inside rail and throttle terminal A to outside rail). That will reverse the DC bias to the track. So the ZW's whistle/horn button becomes a bell button. This is just to test whether your activation switch is the problem. If the bell rings it's issues with the switch. If it doesn't, issue within the loco to activate the bell. After the test, switch the ZW terminals back to stand track wiring.

Mike,
Finally had a chance to try what you suggested. Still no bells-just horn. This may mean the bell circuit is not working. Guess I'll just have to be happy having the horn. Could always upgrade the board from a LocoSound board to a ???
Thanks

ted

 

[Millstonemike]

Mike,
Finally had a chance to try what you suggested. Still no bells-just horn. This may mean the bell circuit is not working. Guess I'll just have to be happy having the horn. Could always upgrade the board from a LocoSound board to a ???
Thanks

ted

If there is a manual, you may be forced to read it It might be a setting or switch.

 

[tboy]

If there is a manual, you may be forced to read it It might be a setting or switch.

Unfortunately, it didn't come with a manual. I purchased it through an auction and in fact it is supposed to have a PS2 board but actually has a Loco Sound instead. The boiler front was changed with one from another model. It really was modified. Thanks for your help.

ted