[REdington]

Yes, they have a computer interface board that uses a standard printer USB cable. I think they run around $60. I have my NCE system working with JMRI, but so far I have not done anything with all that other than to play around with Decoder Pro a little bit.

That's good. As you acquire more locomotives, it's very easy to keep track of them with JMRI and all the CV's settings.

 

[MichaelE]

Yeah, but the NCE Power Cab doesn't have separate outputs for a programming track. You have to tell the handheld unit to go into program track mode... So no matter what, I need to be sure I either be double sure I'm choosing the right loco on the main, or I remove all the other locos before programming the one I want.

You can wire a DPDT switch that will allow track power to the program track or the Main. This will allow you to program in Program Track mode without affecting your other locomotives. The program track uses insulated joiners, and is wired as such that it will either be powered with the rest of the layout or by itself for programming.

 

[JeffHurl]

Yeah... I'm in the process (since last summer, lol) of building a true test/programming track. I'm trying to decide if I should complete a second NCE system, or make use of the MRC Prodigy AdvSq. I have.

For NCE, I already have everything I need, except I am sharing the one PowerCab I have between the 2 systems. It would cost somewhere north of $100 for a second powercab, but then both of my systems would be the same. But for the MRC system, all I would need is a relatively inexpensive cable.

Then there's the whole JMRI and other serial bus drivers that need installed in order for JMRI to work. It took me a while to figure all that out, and I now have it running with NCE. I'm half afraid to try a different system, as it will require I locate, download and install drivers for that system... If it ain't broke...

And for now, I'm fine with using the same PowerCab for each system. It's not like I want to let some trains run while I'm programming another. I'm doing one or the other, so it's not much of an issue to unplug it from my main layout, and take it over to the programming track.

And, finally I ultimately want to do turnout control and train routing from Panel Pro... So having the same system for both would be ideal

 

[MichaelE]

I'm thinking of going over to the ESU ECoS system. I think it is better suited to a European railroad, but the NCE has never given me any trouble (except for the crappy speed control wheel) Lots of €€€ too. I'm still on the fence with it. It has a lot of advantages as an advanced controller and is Wi-Fi capable for the addition of the wireless cab controller.

There is also a Wi-Fi controller that is not as cumbersome as the full-console ECoS that I'm thinking about too. It's about €200,00 less than the console model and fully compatible with ECoS.

These two systems also provide 7A capacity out of the box.

ECoS:

ECoS Mobil Control

 

[SF Gal]

Being DCC was somewhat new to the industry when I was deciding to purchase a control set in 2004, I joined a DCC model railroad club to learn everything about DCC. The club had NCE procabs and I learned off that system and it was pretty easy in my mind. We went to other DCC layouts on weekend "railstops" , at other modelers homes, where I got to experience MRC and Digittrax controls. I was able to compare the features of the other systems. I learned Digittrax had simple easy to use decoders but the DCC system wasn't as easy as NCE, MRC was lacking in other areas as mentioned. So it really was a no brainer for me, early in the millemium to see I should buy a compatible control that could be used at club functions. So I set up my layout so club members could visit and run their trains at the weekend railstop on my layout, using NCE.
So, something to consider IF you plan on joining a model railroad club or running on other peoples layouts. See what they use and try to be compatible with the most popular, if that is even an option. Today, with DCCers making there own DCC control systems, that may not be a viable option. Here is a good article on the subject... https://dccwiki.com/Selecting_A_Digital_Command_Control_System

 

[J.Albert1949]

I started with a Roco z21start -- the "white" box and companion TPLink router (still use that for my upstairs programming track).

Then I found a used Digikeijs DR5000 for half price on ebay and gave that a try, as it uses the same z21 app as does the actual z21start system. Cost me $108... try and find a cheaper complete universal dcc hardware controller anywhere else for that price!

Now I'm looking at adding the YaMoRC YD9401 wifi upgrade for the DR5000 when it becomes available around April. Looks easy enough to install.

The soon-to-be-released YaMoRC YD-7001 command station will also use the z21 app. (the YD 9401 kit above actually "upgrades" the DR5000 "into" the equivalent of the YD-7001).

What's "common" about all these is central to "my dcc experience":
The Roco z21 app.
This is FREE -- no charge at all to download and use it.
Comes in Android or iOS, and runs on any smartphone or tablet.

All of the above hardware "boxes" are able to use it -- z21 compatibility is built right into the hardware.

Once again... it's all "in the app".
The right user interface (for setup, running, programming) is what "makes the experience" with dcc. It makes the difference between intuitive ease-of-use and having to fight just to "get the basics" going.

I've never had to go through any manuals to make all this work.
Just a few youtube videos, found a few online tips, and the rest "just figure it out for yourself".

And... getting older, vision not what it once was... having a tablet to run it on makes it easy to see!

 

[howaboutme]

I'm in the market and looking for my first and only DCC system as well. I'm almost 100% certain that I'm going with an ESU Cab Control system. Although local help may be harder to come by, I'm drawn towards its design and use of Android (I'm in early adopter of that as well) and the fact that it is wireless right out of the box. It has an adjustable power supply making it easier to go from small to bigger layout w/o upgrading. I also believe thet the ESU loksound is 2nd to none and want to use the Lokprogrammer. There's a lot of other positives but also some negatives as long as you know them and can overlook them.

 

[IronManStark]

I have to say after reading the reviews I agree with a lot of it.
I have the ez command , and just got a power cab . I like the ez command for when my daughter helps run trains with me. She runs her tablet with my three blunami locos & I will run the ez command , or we switch & she uses the ez command because it is very simple to use.
I love the power cab for tuning my decoders that are not blunami lol. It was easy to understand & use. It was also easy to wire in for my ez track with the bachmann wire harness it cam with.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Conductorkev]

I started out with NCE Powercab. I also have an MRC Prodigy Advance Sq. that was part of an auction I won last summer. I was thinking I would use that MRC system with JMRI to do all my programming on a true test/programming track, but then got derailed (pun intended) by the fact that nobody had their proprietary USB cable in stock. Then I found that XL Systems has one... supposedly, XL is the company that actually made a lot of the MRC stuff.

Before I realized that the XL system cable might work, I figured I'd just get a second NCE panel and just take the power-cab back and forth. With NCE, you need both the PowerCab and the panel in order to run trains or do any programming. The panels are inexpensive, but the PowerCabs are not.

Now, I'm thinking I'll just sell the MRC system and get a second Powercab, since that's all I need now to have a complete second NCE system.

If your wanting a second remote you can use their throttles which is not as much. Or if it's about maneuverability then it's best to get the wireless cab and wireless system. Your powercab might be able to be wireless I dunno if on back there is a place for batteries then it is you would just need the wireless system that hooks to your cab bus.

 

[rpxmayor]

Gang, I am happy with all three of my DCC controllers, and I want to compare them.

BACHMANN'S EZ COMMAND

This simple controller comes with Bachman DCC train sets. And unless you are knowledgeable, I recommend that your first DCC train be a complete set purchased from Bachmann. Make sure that it is "DCC Sound Equipped."

It's the best, because:
1) Everything is compatible.
2) No tools are required to set it up.
3) It is by far the best controller for changing the address of a new locomotive.
4)It makes it difficult for children to mess it up by pushing the wrong buttons.

It's the worst, because:
1) It has no screen
2) It can only do the first 10 functions
3) It does almost no CV programming.
4) And, surprisingly, it is the most expensive if bought separately.

My Advice? Start with this one, but don't buy another one. For entry-level locomotives, it does everything you need. You cannot advance to a better system with it.

I have it and and my only complaint is that there are no accessory terminals. Had to use another transformer for that.

 

[ncrc5315]

This is just food for thought. I bought a Digitrax Chief back in the 90's, still works today, upgraded to duplex, added the WiFi adapter, etc. Thought I would give the ESu Cab Control a try. It is a very nice system, interfaces with JMRI, but I found the throttle to be very heavy on the throttle end, and always felt like it was going to slip out of my hand. The other thing I didn't like, was the flat interface panel, without buttons I found myself having to look at the controller. Where as a controller with buttons, I can find them by feel.

 

[howaboutme]

This is just food for thought. I bought a Digitrax Chief back in the 90's, still works today, upgraded to duplex, added the WiFi adapter, etc. Thought I would give the ESu Cab Control a try. It is a very nice system, interfaces with JMRI, but I found the throttle to be very heavy on the throttle end, and always felt like it was going to slip out of my hand. The other thing I didn't like, was the flat interface panel, without buttons I found myself having to look at the controller. Where as a controller with buttons, I can find them by feel.

Good to know. I'm likely go still move forward w/ this purchase though. Hopefully, the fact that I don't have any previous experience holding any throttle, I won't be able to even compare. I prefer the sleek look and don't mind the lack of buttons that you'll get on the other throttles. Again, I think the fact that I have no prior experience helps. I will just learn on it.

Now, the reason I wrote is to really ask you how you got it to connect to JMRI? I've seen (not a lot) a few different ways to do it. I'm curious how you did it. Did you go through w/ the LocoNet?

 

[ncrc5315]

No, I used the Ethernet connection. I've moved about a year ago, and everything had to go into storage. So I'm a little hazy on details. I used a program called Angry IP scanner to determine the IP address of the ESu, then it was just a matter of setting up JMRI.

 

[Jamos]

My best is the ESU Command station I have one but good luck finding one cheap. For simple dcc I agree EZ sound does the job but if you want more control and you will soon! then a better controller is needed. But for circling around your chistmas tree EZ sound would do the job.

ESU 50210, EcoS 2.1 DCC System w 7 inch TFT and 15-21 Volt Power Supply

Still Available, but it will be phasedout by the new ECoS 2.5 DCC System(#50220) Later in 2024

tonystrains.com

I love how I can control 2 trains simutainoulsy and also have the option to add free internet phone controllers for more trains or ESU does sell a mobile add on version (again not cheap) and yes JMRI can find it through your wifi/ethernet connections and you can program on main (both ways it reads and writes on main!) with it or use it for a additional controller for another train.
Also you can add downloaded or your own (190x40) pictures of your loco so you can visually tell which one your controlling makes operations a breeze.
Another neat feature is the railcom plus where if you put down a locksound decoder train it maps all the functions to nice easy to see function pictures automatically.
For other decoders you just have to program the function pictures manually for the train not a big deal.
I also use the track layout feature for my switches and track accessories easy to turn swtiches and accesories with touch control.

my 2 cents.

 

[Jamos]

I'm thinking of going over to the ESU ECoS system. I think it is better suited to a European railroad, but the NCE has never given me any trouble (except for the crappy speed control wheel) Lots of €€€ too. I'm still on the fence with it. It has a lot of advantages as an advanced controller and is Wi-Fi capable for the addition of the wireless cab controller.

There is also a Wi-Fi controller that is not as cumbersome as the full-console ECoS that I'm thinking about too. It's about €200,00 less than the console model and fully compatible with ECoS.

These two systems also provide 7A capacity out of the box.

ECoS:

ECoS Mobil Control

I use the command control and mobile control for additional trainsl on my American trains all Loksound and love it if you can afford it best choice!

 

[Jamos]

I started with a Roco z21start -- the "white" box and companion TPLink router (still use that for my upstairs programming track).

Then I found a used Digikeijs DR5000 for half price on ebay and gave that a try, as it uses the same z21 app as does the actual z21start system. Cost me $108... try and find a cheaper complete universal dcc hardware controller anywhere else for that price!

Now I'm looking at adding the YaMoRC YD9401 wifi upgrade for the DR5000 when it becomes available around April. Looks easy enough to install.

The soon-to-be-released YaMoRC YD-7001 command station will also use the z21 app. (the YD 9401 kit above actually "upgrades" the DR5000 "into" the equivalent of the YD-7001).

What's "common" about all these is central to "my dcc experience":
The Roco z21 app.
This is FREE -- no charge at all to download and use it.
Comes in Android or iOS, and runs on any smartphone or tablet.

All of the above hardware "boxes" are able to use it -- z21 compatibility is built right into the hardware.

Once again... it's all "in the app".
The right user interface (for setup, running, programming) is what "makes the experience" with dcc. It makes the difference between intuitive ease-of-use and having to fight just to "get the basics" going.

I've never had to go through any manuals to make all this work.
Just a few youtube videos, found a few online tips, and the rest "just figure it out for yourself".

And... getting older, vision not what it once was... having a tablet to run it on makes it easy to see!
View attachment 600752

I like the idea but I like a wheel to turn maybe I am old school.

 

[J.Albert1949]

Jamos posted:
"My best is the ESU Command station I have one but good luck finding one cheap"

EGADS!
$700... just for the control unit?

If you were to use the Digikeijs DR5000, your "cost" for the control unit would be... $0.

That's because any smartphone or tablet you already have will do the job.
With mine (either DR5000 or Roco z21start), I can even use a VERY OLD Samsung "Galaxy player" -- which isn't a phone or even a full-fledged Android tablet, just an old music player that runs Android. But it STILL RUNS the z21 software and connects through wifi -- so it can control and program my engines.

Since I got my DR5000 used ($108), I probably have the cheapest dcc system in America!
And I challenge any forum member to a side-by-side contest to see which one can do common dcc tasks more easily...

 

[howaboutme]

Jamos posted:
"My best is the ESU Command station I have one but good luck finding one cheap"

EGADS!
$700... just for the control unit?

If you were to use the Digikeijs DR5000, your "cost" for the control unit would be... $0.

That's because any smartphone or tablet you already have will do the job.
With mine (either DR5000 or Roco z21start), I can even use a VERY OLD Samsung "Galaxy player" -- which isn't a phone or even a full-fledged Android tablet, just an old music player that runs Android. But it STILL RUNS the z21 software and connects through wifi -- so it can control and program my engines.

Since I got my DR5000 used ($108), I probably have the cheapest dcc system in America!
And I challenge any forum member to a side-by-side contest to see which one can do common dcc tasks more easily...

I agree w/ you and yes, the Ecos is out of my budget too, but what you can't quantify is that some people are willing to pay for bells and whistles. If you strictly compare "common" tasks, well, that is really not a comparison. Take a look at the bells and whistles to determine if they are worth it. If not, you won't be the only one.

 

[Jamos]

I think I qualified my response is that its very expensive. but it is much more than just a controller. railcom plus and block detection etc. built in with a wheel not a touch controil for speed that you get with a tablet or phone. and the price is about double now than what you paid around 227 for it. Also when I bought my ESU command station it was $475 but that was 5 years ago lol..

 

[Jamos]

I agree w/ you and yes, the Ecos is out of my budget too, but what you can't quantify is that some people are willing to pay for bells and whistles. If you strictly compare "common" tasks, well, that is really not a comparison. Take a look at the bells and whistles to determine if they are worth it. If not, you won't be the only one.

for common tasks a nce powercab does the job nicely for around 70$