[OilValleyRy]

So this is just a fascinating way our brain works. When I was mixing blends of ballast, I hate #1, #2 was barely better. #3 I think I opted to not even test. (Edit: reverse that) 4 was ok but needed more black. And 5 looked great in the jar, too much like cork on… but looking at the blends side by side in their jars, I liked 4 and 5 most.

Once samples were glued down, I was less convinced, but still felt #4 was the best.

But it’s been about 1 month sitting here, analyzing, ignoring to clear any preconceived determination, glancing again, ignoring, taking another good look.
Now, #5 I hate, #4 looks a little less terrible…anyway… living with the results has made my opinion flip entirely.
Isn’t it just damn odd?
It’s an example of why I’m a proponent of living with test results for a while rather than a rush to finish. Not just with ballast, but layout height, or even a new mattress.
i think I try adding some iron ore just to see.

mix #5, formerly “yay, cork!” Lol

Still, better than the more common approach of just using off the shelf blends. IMO.

 

[OilValleyRy]

On all previous layout (including the N one) I used ready made track and TOs that I simply spray painted and cleaned the rail heads.

But this go around, so many things are so different. My first multi-deck layout i.e.
As track goes I’ll be using Central Valley turnouts (kit form) and ties, with ME rail.
And that is where I need some consultation (in addition to my brothers).

ME has two types of rail, regular and pre-weathered. The pre-weathered stuff is horrible to solder to. It has to be filed or something, and even then my bro says it’s iffy.
Does any one know a good way to prep these for solder?

The other option is regular rail (without ties). My mind instinctively gravitates to spray painting them inverted, rail head down, and doing 99 feet of rail at once with feeders already soldered.
But a question popped into mind.
Does anyone know if there is a chemical similar to “blacken-it” or “rust all” that would give a nice dark aged rust brown? I feel a brushed on “tarnishing” agent would be nicer than paint.

Side note; Previously I also stuck with code 83 throughout with depressions carved into foam for cork sidings to sit lower. But another “new” thing to me is I'm leaning towards Code 83 with HO cork for mainline and 70 with N cork for sidings & yards. I’m not yet decided on how I will address the transitions in both rail size and height. Possibly graduated styrene shims under the ties/cork.
If anyone reading this uses Code 70, could you verify for me that standard flanges operate without issue, or would scale/proto wheelsets be needed? Having 0 experience with 70, is there anything I should know/be warned of before committing?

 

[SF Gal]

IDK but I am a believer of KISS and just paint brush it after the big stuff is done. I try to do the basics first, lay track underwire turnouts power accessories and then, as you age, do the upright easy stuff, like weathering and ballasting track. If you do not get started soon, age will start catching up with you. Then there is the unexpected delays or burn outs...believe me I have lived it. Before you know it, you will be your fathers age and still overthinking it all....

 

[REdington]

I've used a lot of ME weathered track and rail to make turnouts. Using the rail for turnouts, I use a brightboy and take all the weathering off the bottom of the base rail. Then tin the whole piece with Radio Shack silver bearing solder (part # 6400013). I also tin my ties before I start making turnouts. Once both the ties and rail are tinned, apply heat and they solder up quickly.

 

[OilValleyRy]

Lol well yeah it seems like it’s been a long process of planning these last four years. But I’m glad I haven’t leaped before looking.
I learned previously to paint rail before laying it. Once installed, getting the far side rail web is a PITA to the tenth power.
Although this time around all my track sections will be movable/removable and detailed on the workbench just like structures. So I guess pre/post install rail “painting” doesn’t matter.

My original plan would’ve ended up being dismantled by now had I dove in. Like you I’ve got two huge egress windows p, 48” wide each. The original plan had a curved corner yard right below them. Meaning I wouldn’t be able to clean them etc. The original breaker panel, which had rain water coming in through it, was right there too. That got torn out, relocated, and doubled in size. New windows. Got a new furnace before the layout was in the way of contractors, etc. Had to fix a crack in the foundation wall etc. Still need to drywall interior walls.
Layout wise, took me a while to settle on deck heights. That’s why I lived with a single section for a year. Easier to adjust L girders on one section rather than the whole layout. Imagine trying to adjust a helix after the fact! Lol no thanks. A fair bit of uncharted territory for me as I’m trying to do things different, if not better, than prior layouts… Which is par for the course. Benchwork is going up this winter though you’ll be happy to know. At least half of it anyway. Holding off on where I need to drywall still. But 6x18 is by itself is pretty good size to start out. I’d rather do it right, do it once, than do it over 4 times. Been there, done that, got the tee shirt but it was the wrong size too lol

shrugs
Got the rest of my life to build it. That could be 40 more years, or 45 minutes. I’m content, no regrets either way.

 

[REdington]

Got the rest of my life to build it. That could be 40 more years, or 45 minutes. I’m content, no regrets either way.

I know when I started my railroad about 20 years ago, I thought I would have all the mainline done within the first 2 or 3 years. It took me 15 years. I've had a few mini ops sessions to find out if what I had would work and what didn't, I've changed. The past few days, I've reworked the trim end of Oroville yard to have better access to the 3 A&D tracks. My goal right now is to have a full ops session by the end of the year.

I know you have done lots of planning for you multi level layout and I like your approach in building the test module. Just some thoughts, on your track plan sketches, I didn't see any A&D (arrival and departure) tracks in the yards. These are useful if you don't want to tie up the mainline while a train gets trimmed (cars setouts and pickups).
Tagging along watching your layout come to life.

 

[OilValleyRy]

The way it is drawn, or perhaps traditional perception, is that there is one big loop of track.
It doesn’t normally operate that way though. Consult the Book of Armaments: Post 7, paragraph 3; the creator did spake… The mainlines, in normal ops, end at the green dots. On layout this will be indicated with painted ties.
The continuation of that outer track, and including the escape track turnout, are on the branch line that heads to Glassylvania and Pennzoil. On the other side of the wye bridge will be a turnout “cut off” that connects with the Westbound (outbound) mainline, closing the actual loop.

And I solved the yard planning issue I had with the cross over between in/outbound having opposite polarity issues (single mainline folded to be parallel). The mainline there will be the same polarity despite being the same mainline going in opposite directions. So I’ll probably have a couple cross overs between them. The mainline is really like a horseshoe shape.

One…Two…Five! No.. Three!!!

 

[Raege]

 

[OilValleyRy]

The first sub roadbed section has been installed. I know I’ve described it, but photos may help if anyone was struggling to grasp the concept.
The 2nd cross member back is not yet secured as 2 turnouts will be in that vicinity. The sub roadbed will get secured to that one also, at that time, to walkout a bit of warp it has.
But as you can see, a few screws from riser to cross member is all it takes to lift it all out. Another benefit of this concept is that you can use a variety of sub roadbed materials. That plywood is half inch, but I can use any thickness by adjusting the risers accordingly. So even if half inch plywood is sold out, I can use 3/4, or even mdf shelving boards if I really had to.

It’s also presently positioned about 26.5 inches from the rear of the benchwork. That will change most likely. Also easy as pie to make lateral adjustments.

The foam at the rear might not actually be used there. The front area will have foam in order to have the river bank slope and some guarantee of waterproof (versus plaster shell). I only use foam where I have reservations about plaster shell supporting structure weight or “water” containment.
But more to the point; the 2 inch foam is about even to the top of the sub roadbed. I can carve down, build up, and even use a saber saw to cut curvature to match the sub roadbed radius if I choose. And all turnout machines are securely attached to the sub roadbed.

Note: cork road bed atop the sub roadbed is not shown but will be used.

 

[OilValleyRy]

Benchwork section #2 is in, but more interesting is I got my first load shelf installed. There’s going to be three of these around the layout. Probably end up painting them black inside with a small/dim LED for some slight illumination. Once fascia goes up I’ll cut a slot/pigeon hole into the fascia and label accordingly. Also each will get its own magnetic wand for removing loads from cars, so no need to carry wands around.
In this instance (Electralloy Co) it’s loads in empties out. Refineries are empties in, loads out of pet coke. In any case, the ops rule is the load does not get removed/inserted until the cars are pulled for their return to the yard.
Some folks do pull out drawers for this though I decided not to hide them and make them both clearly locatable and kind of showcased but not prominently (hence the dim LED).

 

[OilValleyRy]

So my backdrop plan has evolved quite a bit over the prior 12 months. Solving some problems and creating new ones along the way. But I think I've got it solved in the best way.

Backdrop area dimensions: 12ft by 31in tall, double sided.

Original plan: I was going to use 4x8s of 2” foam board with 2” wide half round raceway on the ends.
I felt this is too expensive at the moment, and also decided a solid backdrop might not be such a good idea.

Plan 2: Using masonite board with 1x2 join reinforcement and halved pvc pipe for the ends.
Decided halving pvc pipe too tricky.

Plan 3/Final: using 8ft x 31inch reinforced masonite boards, mated to 2ft x 31inch foam sections (for 12ft over all) and half round raceway for the tight radius.

The brilliance is I already have the masonite board and the foam and the 1x2 sitting here.

Please pardon me while I do a victory lap, skipping around the house quoting George Peppard from the A Team.

 

[Raege]

looking forward to watching it all come together

 

[OilValleyRy]

Some of you may have noticed that I have mentioned my preference for a vague track plan versus a meticulously computer planned… plan. While there’s nothing wrong with “TrackCad” or whatever it is called, I discovered two instances where I need to shoehorn in some solutions… which would have a big impact otherwise (hence my preference).

The first example (above) is lighter fare of the two. I’ve indicated the mainline (single folded back parallel to itself) in green. The branch to Pennzoil and connection to form a continuous loop in black. Reversing wye not necessary to illustrate for this.
Originally I was going to put the “double” main on one bridge, the branch on a separate bridge with 2-6 inches between them. My mental issue with that is the prototype PRR wye bridge was two tracks only.

Splitting the mainline approach to the bridge by a few inches and different curvature is seemingly convoluted and unnecessary.
Then again, it preserves the prototypical bridge design, and “jives” with the OVR adding a second mainline & bridge.

This second example is a bit more complex in nuance. This is the other portion of the wye connection… err, the branch line part. The mainline is off to the right side.
So originally the track was going to be a straight shot connecting to the mainline, with a turnout to cross the river, and a spur for an industry. Sounds fine.
The problem that I discovered is that the straight shot (and mainline off the right - not illustrated) would be too close to the aisle to fit Electralloy between the track & river. I realized this only when looking down the length of my benchwork and riser positions. That is when it occurred to me to change the turnout leading to the bridge from a RH to a LH, and… actually the drawing is a bit inaccurate here but the turnout leading to the industry spur would also change from RH to LH. Yes the drawing indicates a RH-my mistake. That creates, kind of, a cross over in essence. Eliminates an S curve on the industry spur, adds an S curve on the “straight shot,” but also bumps that track back a few inches from the fascia. That will allow for an easier connection to the mainline, which will not be exactly parallel to the edge of the benchwork where they connect.
Probably hard to follow that in text form; when you see it all come together though it’ll make sense.
Anyway, good examples of my method of maintaining a general track plan approach with maximum flexibility to improvise/change the finer aspects as kinks appear. It’s not for everyone, but I like it.

 

[Christiaη]

Who's that guy ?

 

[OilValleyRy]

That would be Sally Ride, named after the first female US astronaut because nothing will prevent her from exploring.

 

[OilValleyRy]

Just a helpful update regarding organization.
These are what I use for bus wire management. 1/2 cooper straps. 10 pack for $1.70 or 100 pack for $10.
I bend one mounting tab back along the hoop, and use a single #8 3/4 screw on the bottom.
Easy to flex these, drop wire in behind it, and press it closed. No threading things. This is nice because you can run off whatever length bus you need, secure one end and just drop it all in real quick. Same for any lengthy lighting feeders.
I mount them in advance, vertically right along the front L girder. The fascia will also get mounted to the L girder edge. But they work well for organizing a spaghetti mess of wire too. My main purpose for them is preventing wire sag intruding the lower deck viewing areas.

 

[SF Gal]

I saw peg board also being used for wiring where the wire is routed through the holes and the peg board stand up on end....Kind of liked the idea of separating wiring for easy troubleshooting....

 

[OilValleyRy]

I saw peg board also being used for wiring where the wire is routed through the holes and the peg board stand up on end....Kind of liked the idea of separating wiring for easy troubleshooting....
View attachment 595034

I did it exactly that way on my first layout. I’m not going to say it’s wrong or bad, but I didn’t like it for a couple reasons. Taught leaves no slack for adjustment, having slack lends to sagging, and you gotta crawl under. I hate crawling under. Especially threading through holes. It can be rough on the knees. On my new layout, there is more layout under my layout. Lol It’s one of those new challenges for me with this layout, all that s5uff under the top deck is visible in the middle deck sky. So I’m running bus along the front edge, terminal strips at the benchwork joints, and hinged fascia doors (hinge at the top) to access the terminal strips where necessary.
Been considering maybe stapling up some viskween… visqueen? Visk…. Semi-clear plastic as a light/clarity diffuser. But I can always add that later if desired so I’ll keep as a optional afterward thing.

 

[OilValleyRy]

Just a quick ancillary topic if/when who-knows-who might get ideas in their head.

OVR loco & caboose painting guide

 

[OilValleyRy]

Pardon the lower photo quality.

Examples of my wiring organization system to eliminate (almost entirely) under layout adventures.

First, with modular benchwork, my bus lines are also modular. The next section will have a terminal strip also, with jumpers connecting them.
NOTE: just an example, I’ll be using a different style of T Strips with Sta-Kon connectors.
Not only will jumpers be connected here, but all the feeders for the 3x6 foot section will too. More on that below.
The fascia will attach to the L girder, with a hinged piece to allow access to the T strip.
So the hardest part will be adding additional feeders, which is simple to eliminate by running extra unused/unconnected feeders before scenery (for structure lights etc).
All my feeders get marked with color coded tape to identify what they are i.e yellow 2V, white 5V, Blue/white and blue/yellow being commons.

I used pvc straps along the top L girder simply because I had a bunch laying here.

I prefer the copper straps because they can be shaped if/as needed. 100 for $9.99.

Also those feeders are only for demonstrating organization. The actual feeders will be 14awg except for the last 6 inches or so which will be this gray stuff (22 or 24awg). Reason for that is the feeders will sometimes be long. A 6 foot long feeder, 3A 16V only made of 14awg copper only drops to 15.909V.

Tons of feeder wires. IIRC they were excess wiring harnesses originally intended for armored vehicles being built for Canadian law enforcement; whatever they call their SWAT teams. That or armored vehicles being built & sent to the Bosnian conflict way back when. At least I think so, hard to keep track of what came from where & when.