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tire rant

2.8K views 21 replies 12 participants last post by  Lee Willis  
#1 ·
Ok, so it is time to buy some new tires for my MTH engines. I thought I'd stock up on the three sizes that would cover all my MTH locomotives. So I went on the MTh website, looked at the chart, and put the appropriate tires in my cart. THEN I SAW THE PRICE!!!!!!

A dollar each for tires? Are they out of their frickin' minds..... (that's a rhetorical question).

I'm not especially cheap. I will pay a thousand dollars for the right engine, I understand the technology and detail that goes into modern locomotives. But I would feel like a fool paying a dollar each for rubber bands. They have been around forever and there is no "technology" involved. They should be a dollar a dozen!!

So I'm conducting an experiment. After searching several threads regarding tire substitutes, I purchased several types of silicone sealants, some Plastidip and some JB Weld. (I skipped on the Bullfrog snot).

The JB Weld is my own idea. Might be stupid, but who knows?

I put the sealant on several locomotives and the Permatex water pump sealant seemed to work the best, of the sealants, that is. Eventually, after around thirty hours of run time, pulling a heavy load, it did begin to show some wear. But no wheel slip, even then.

I applied the JB Weld differently than instructed in the tire threads. (Just don't clean the grooves with alcohol, use acetone or detergent instead) I put it on the same way, with the locomotive (Lionel F3) upside down and running slowly. But I applied just a little more than necessary. I let it cure two days and ran the engine, upside down, using sandpaper wrapped around a square dowel to "sand" off the excess. Just to where the JB Weld filled the groove.

I really loaded up that F3's consist. I've run it constantly at various speeds for almost a week now and that JB Weld is working great. Best of everything I tried. Even immune to smoke fluid.

Now, I know filling the driver wheel grooves with JB Weld isn't for everyone. It probably won't help the resale value of the locomotive, but that's a problem for the kids when my estate sale comes up sometime in the "distant" future :)

Right now I'm thinking of just using it on the couple of engines that throw tires occasionally, and I don't see why locomotives can't come from the factory with a more high tech solution to old fashioned tires, which have been around for generations. There are all kinds of high tech composites out there. I'm sure one can be found that would work better than what we now have.

Then it might be worth paying a dollar each for them.
 
#2 ·
Interesting experiments. I guess this falls into what ever floats your boat category. There are some folks that believe magna-traction should be on all locomotives, count me out for that suggestion.

For me, if a dollar per rubber tire caused me heart burn I would just pay the buck and keep the locos running. I do know a few O Gaugers that do use some type of sealants to replace the rubber tires but mainly they just don't want to mess with replacing them over and over.

Bill
 
#3 ·
Thank you. Useful information. I've always used the Plastigrip stuff instead of bullfrog snot.

One thing I also have learned is to test an engine first without traction tires before going to the effort. My Vision CC2 pulls well - at least as well as I need it too, without them. One can argue that, with 16 powered drivers, it should, but the point is that I saved a lot of effort by discovering this and just skipping that. Not only less work now but down the road when the new wear off, etc.
 
#6 ·
I have no doubt that mine would pull more with traction tires, but like you say they are a PITA to replace and mine pulls around 12-15 good (low friction) cars without slippage on my mainline, which admittedly with 72"+ curves only and mile inclines does not challenge a loco's traction much. I think it would pull more.

I am inherently lazy - show me a shortcut that will even come close to working, like this, and I will take it every time.

There are locos I think must have traction tires, BEEPs being the one type that comes to mind.
 
#12 ·
Maybe I don’t run my trains enough or maybe my grades aren’t steep enough or maybe my trains aren’t long enough, but I haven’t had to replace tires too many times. I have replaced tires a few times and it wasn’t difficult. I don’t think $1 for a tire is outlandish. Generally, the price you pay for things is based on what it is worth to you, not what it costs to make.
 
#15 ·
The 'O'rings' Can easily be made flat.
Once you have flattened one side, you can turn the rings inside out put them back on the spindle, and flatten the other side. You will have a small rubber band type ring. 'O' Rings come in many different widths, so you can make them about any width you need.
Dan
 

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#16 ·
If you are going to use O rings just avoid common nitrile, aka Buna-N. It doesn't like to be stretched and will crack and fail in a few months. Other compounds you may find in an auto store or industrial supply are Viton and EPDM but I have not tried to stretch these to compare.
I would suggest doing some searches on elastomeric rubber compounds to find out what material would be best.
I have had best results shaping soft plastics and rubber with abrasives.

Pete
 
#22 ·


So many things I can think of that might not be compatible: the right diameter for one -too thick, the right surface area. Not enough contact on the inside to cling. I still like the "leave 'em off" solution best, but given you need them on a loco I will go with either get the right size or use some plastigrip or something like it, although not frogsnot.