To answer your last question first, NO. You cannot have DCC and DC connected to the same track at the same time with both in operation.

JMRI is not needed for DCC. It is another method of DCC control but is not necessary for DCC operation.

All you need is a basic DCC system from MRC, NCE, Digitrax, or the like. You can run multiple trains on the same or different tracks. You can also independently control many trains with only one system.

 

Thank you

 

Look at Digitrax EVOX starter systems Digitrax EVOX Evolution Advanced Starter Set Replaces EVO (Scale = ALL) Part # 245-EVOX. It has the USB port to connect to a computer and allow you to use JMRI decoder pro to assist in changing the locomotive decoder characteristics along with a really nice throttle that you can easily control 2 locomotives with. You can grow with this unit to very large layouts. You will have to read the manuals and take some time to learn things.

 

Look at Digitrax EVOX starter systems Digitrax EVOX Evolution Advanced Starter Set Replaces EVO (Scale = ALL) Part # 245-EVOX. It has the USB port to connect to a computer and allow you to use JMRI decoder pro to assist in changing the locomotive decoder characteristics along with a really nice throttle that you can easily control 2 locomotives with. You can grow with this unit to very large layouts. You will have to read the manuals and take some time to learn things.

Thank you Lemonhawk. That's a big help.

 

Jimd0586;

The others have answered your DCC question. I noticed one other thing in your initial post though. You mentioned that you had, "purchased a simple Bachmann analog (DC) set. Later on, you mentioned, "a simple layout with a siding but building it with switches and making it modular, so I can maybe add on more sections down the road." Still later you mention "And on the ends some unused switches that can later be connected to other layouts for expansion."

Here's the potential problem.
I assume that the Bachmann train set you bought came with some Bachmann EZ-Track included. That's OK, meaning the actual track pieces, but the Bachmann EZ-Track switches * are the very worst on the market. They have a long history of causing derailments, and just plain breaking down. Sometimes they are inoperative right out of the box, and sometimes they fail within a few days of being installed on a layout.

If you like the "roadbed" type of track with the gray plastic "ballast" piece attached to the bottom, I suggest using Kato Unitrack, which is both excellent track, and has very reliable Kato turnouts made to fit that track. The Bachmann & Kato, tracks do not simply snap together with each other, or with non-roadbed sectional, or flex, track. However they can be easily adapted to mate with other track. So, I'm not suggesting that you throw your Bachmann track away, just that you don't buy the Bachmann turnouts and set off on the path to frustration and disappointment. If you later decide to use flex track, or sectional track, then you will have other good turnout brand options.

The files attached are some that I wrote for new model railroaders planning their first layout. Look through them if you wish.

Good Luck & Have Fun;

Traction Fan 🙂

* We call them "turnouts" to distinguish between track switches & electrical switches.

 

Jimd0586;

The others have answered your DCC question. I noticed one other thing in your initial post though. You mentioned that you had, "purchased a simple Bachmann analog (DC) set. Later on, you mentioned, "a simple layout with a siding but building it with switches and making it modular, so I can maybe add on more sections down the road." Still later you mention "And on the ends some unused switches that can later be connected to other layouts for expansion."

Here's the potential problem.
I assume that the Bachmann train set you bought came with some Bachmann EZ-Track included. That's OK, meaning the actual track pieces, but the Bachmann EZ-Track switches * are the very worst on the market. They have a long history of causing derailments, and just plain breaking down. Sometimes they are inoperative right out of the box, and sometimes they fail within the first few days of installation.

If you like the "roadbed" type of track with the gray plastic "ballast" piece attached to the bottom, I suggest using Kato Unitrack, which is both excellent track, and has very reliable Kato turnouts made to fit that track. The Bachmann & Kato, tracks do not simply snap together with each other, or with non-roadbed sectional, or flex, track. However they can be easily adapted to mate with other track. So, I'm not suggesting that you throw your Bachmann track away, just that you don't buy the Bachmann turnouts and set off on the path to frustration and disappointment. If you later decide to use flex track, or sectional track, then you will have other good turnout brand options.

The files attached are some that I wrote for new model railroaders planning their first layout. Look through them if you wish.

Good Luck & Have Fun;

Traction Fan 🙂

* We call them "turnouts" to distinguish between track switches & electrical switches.

Traction Fan,

Thank you! I purchased online the RailChief set and just today realized it doesn't have the ability to really be expanded upon. So I cancelled the order... we will see if that happens in time. So I am basically starting over and now looking for a beginner DCC set. So your advice is appreciated. HO is the scale I want to pursue. Suggestions?

 

I agree with Traction Fan. Bachman EZ-Track is fine, except for their turnouts. And unfortunately, you really can't simply use other manufacturers' turnouts because they won't connect to your track.

The good news is that your Bachman train itself will work on any manufacturer's track, and there are a few options for much better overall track, including Atlas, Peco and Kato to name a few. Although... the standard Atlas turnouts aren't much better than Bachman. But you can combine Atlas track with Peco Turnouts, which is what I'm doing.

I just got back into the hobby after a 25 years. The Bachman EZ-track still works. Some of the pieces have bowed a bit, but virtually every piece of the track was still usable, even after being in a box in my basement for 25 years. The turnouts, on the other hand, never did work worth a darn.

The Bachman EZ-track was sufficient for me to play around long enough to figure out that I really wanted a bigger layout. So I opted to buy a NCE Power Cab starter kit, and a new DCC ready locomotive.

"DCC Ready" simply means that a drop-in DCC decoder can fit into the locomotive... but the locomotive was DC only when I bought it. Interesting, that it is cheaper to buy a DCC ready locomotive and a drop-in decoder than it is to buy a "DCC Equipped" locomotive.

I bought a Kato SD70ACe that was DC ready for $100. The DCC equipped version is $170, but a drop-in digitax decoder is only $30. The difference is mostly related to sound. I don't have any desire for sound coming out of my locomotive. In order to get sound and DCC, I would have had to buy a more expensive DCC decoder which also can be complicated to install because there may not be enough space inside the locomotive to squeeze in a speaker as well.

So... if you want sound, your simplest bet is to buy a locomotive that is DCC and Sound equipped.

 

Jim

You have decided wisely to cancel your order for the
Bachmann train set. Bachmann locos and cars are
as good as any, but off the shelf train sets are not
desirable for reasons our guys have posted.

I would suggest that you review the locos and cars
advertised on Ebay and the various 'on line' dealers.
If you have a hobby shop within driving range that would
be even better.

Decide on a loco that you like...make sure it says
DCC ON BOARD...avoid locos labelled: DC and DCC 'READY'.
The brand won't matter much, today's locos are
all generally dependable. As a starter, select a diesel loco with 4 wheel
trucks, or a small steamer.
Then select a few cars...not many for a Christmas
train. Be sure that the couplers are the same...Knuckle
couplers like used on real trains
are the best... You'll also need a DCC Control System.
The most popular are Digitrax, NEC, MRC and
Bachmann. If you are not planning to set up
a large hobby layout, the Bachmann EZ would
be the most economical and easiest to use.
However, if you plan an ultimate large layout,
go with Digidtrax, NEC or MRC.

Then buy SECTIONAL track that will fit around
your tree (curved and straight pieces)...avoid track on a roadbed...it is not
compatible with quality turnouts.
Mount the track, using light dabs of adhesive,
on a sheet of plywood that is at least 4 feet square
anticipating the tree sitting in the middle.

After Christmas, if you decide to build a more
extensive layout with the above, you would need
only add more track and turnouts on a larger
board or boards. At that point you would want
to use Flex track 3 foot sections.

Don

 

Jim

You have decided wisely to cancel your order for the
Bachmann train set. Bachmann locos and cars are
as good as any, but off the shelf train sets are not
desirable for reasons our guys have posted.

I would suggest that you review the locos and cars
advertised on Ebay and the various 'on line' dealers.
If you have a hobby shop within driving range that would
be even better.

Decide on a loco that you like...make sure it says
DCC ON BOARD...avoid locos labelled: DC and DCC 'READY'.
The brand won't matter much, today's locos are
all generally dependable. As a starter, select a diesel loco with 4 wheel
trucks, or a small steamer.
Then select a few cars...not many for a Christmas
train. Be sure that the couplers are the same...Knuckle
couplers like used on real trains
are the best... You'll also need a DCC Control System.
The most popular are Digitrax, NEC, MRC and
Bachmann. If you are not planning to set up
a large hobby layout, the Bachmann EZ would
be the most economical and easiest to use.
However, if you plan an ultimate large layout,
go with Digidtrax, NEC or MRC.

Then buy SECTIONAL track that will fit around
your tree (curved and straight pieces)...avoid track on a roadbed...it is not
compatible with quality turnouts.
Mount the track, using light dabs of adhesive,
on a sheet of plywood that is at least 4 feet square
anticipating the tree sitting in the middle.

After Christmas, if you decide to build a more
extensive layout with the above, you would need
only add more track and turnouts on a larger
board or boards. At that point you would want
to use Flex track 3 foot sections.

Don

Thank you Don! Everyone here is a big help!

 

I agree with what the others have said so far regarding locos and cars -- pretty much anything will work; just about everybody makes quality stuff nowadays, but no one is immune from the occasional dog. You don't NEED to use flex track on a bigger layout, but it is helpful, both in that you only have to buy track and turnouts (switches), instead of all the different little pieces, and it frees you from the geometric limitations of sectional track.

DCC systems are the same way. This thread will soon become populated with a bunch of different recommendations for which system to buy, and everyone will think theirs is the best (wait until you get the hard core sales pitch from J.Albert1949 for the Roco / Digikeis systems!), but here's the thing: none of the big players (Digitrax, NCE, MRC) or even some of the minor ones (Lenz, ECoS, Roco / Digikeis) is any better or any worse. It all comes down to individual preference and how you like to operate, what controls feel better in your hands, do you need to look at it to change throttle commands, etc. The best thing to do is try to hit a big train show or dealer where you can actually test-drive them; if not, and you have a club nearby, use what they use, because you will have a ready source of help and advice. Anyone's DCC system can be used with anyone else's decoders, so that's not a problem you have to worry about.

 

I am starting to get that impression exactly!

Well, it looks like to just get started with a DCC loco, track, and controller I am in at least $350 for HO scale. And that is probably on the cheap end.

 

"...Some sort of device that bridges the computer to the track ..."
You could buy an Arduino clone, and a motor driver add-on, and a 15 VDC power supply..
These connect a PC to the track

http://1fatgmc.com/RailRoad/DCC/page-1.html

 

Wow! Thanks!

 

The very cheap end. Shoot for closer to $400-$425 for all you mentioned depending upon how much track you want.

I had over $700 in before I even bought a locomotive or DCC system. Mine is a medium- small layout. 11x13.

 

There is also a very good selection of used
locos, DCC systems, cars, and track. Check
our For Sale or Trade forum, as well as Craigslist
and Ebay. For example, I found on Craigslist
a Bachmann DCC system, 2 DCC locos and
a number of cars...all used, of course, but
for only 175.00.

Don

 

I built this.

GitHub - DccPlusPlus/BaseStation: DCC++ Base Station for Arduino Uno and Mega

DCC++ Base Station for Arduino Uno and Mega. Contribute to DccPlusPlus/BaseStation development by creating an account on GitHub.

github.com

Combined with an old laptop and jmri. And I have a basic but good enough for now DCC system.

 

You can enter more cheaply if you find used items. I actually have enjoyed finding gently used locomotives and installing DCC decoders myself.

Another thing you might consider is having sectional track for use surrounding your Christmas tree and using flex track and turnouts for a more permanent layout to use the rest of the year. This might simplify things in the long run.

 

One thing that may have been mentioned but I missed, if you are buying sectional track, particularly used, make sure it is nickel-silver and not brass or steel.