Since you already have the layout, I think a better choice is to choose the DCC system and a loco that you want. The starter kits have very limited functions in DCC and the rest is low end locos and cars.

 

I really don't have a clue about DCC and what would be good for me and as far as controllers go I am totally clueless, I saw a demo of an MTH "O" gauge at a train store and the sounds and the smoke of the steamer they demoed was to me, unbelievable. I would want to stay with "HO" and the one big question I have is, does "HO" have the same sound and smoke capabilities as the "O" gauge?
The guy in the store pressed a button and all of a sudden announcements are being made, bells are ringing, horns blasted and the loco started to huff and puff and then it slowly started to move and built up to speed and all this was with a push of one button, I was fascinated, but the price of over 500 bucks startled me.

 

Yes, those features are available in HO as well. The price though is similar. If you spend about $200 for a DCC system, another $300 can get a BLI steamer with sync smoke and sound. If you stay without smoke and sound, the loco prices are less than half. Technology for those impressive features is expensive. Most of the time, you will run without them, only turning them on when demonstrating your layout. The rest of the time, they become irritating to many people.

 

I just went though this and am making the transition from DC to DCC. I'll give you some insight as to what I did and am doing.

If you already have the layout, just get a DCC system and some DCC locomotives.

First, decide what it is you want to do with your layout. Is sound important to you or do you just want to control locomotives individually?

Is it just you or do you have a group of folks come run on your layout?

Do you plan to expand to a large degree?

Do you have any DC locomotives that you want to keep running but don't want to add a decoder to?

Once you have figured out your parameters, then start deciding on a system.

Bachmann has a bare bones DCC system, 1 amp power, limited sound capability, very limited programming capability, can run a DC locomotive, and is the cheapest.

Didigtrax Zephyr is a full function system that is expandable. THe starter kit has 3 amps of power and can run a DC locomotive. It also allows you to connect your DC transformers to use as additional DCC locomotive controllers just like having additional cabs.

NCE Power cab is a full function expandable system. THe starter kit has 2 or 3 amps of power (I forget which and can't refind the info) and CANNOT run a DC locomotive.

NCE Twin is a limited starter set. Will need expansion . Does not have a digital readout for programming locomotives. Limited capability to run only 2 locomotives as the address are fixed at 3 and 4. I would not recommend this set.

My situation is I don't care about sound and just want to be able to control the locomotives individually.

Here's what I am doing. I bought some Bachmann DCC equipped locomotives. They are the least expensive of DCC equipped locomotives and are decent. They will run on DC or DCC without making any changes to them. They are good transition locomotives. They have no sound capability. I can run them on my current DC layout until I get my DCC system and hook it up.

The wiring for a DCC layout is easier - you don't have to set up blocks if you want to run multiple trains. I currently have 6 blocks on my layout.

One word of caution if you want to run a DC locomotive on a DCC layout. Since on a DCC layout the power to the track is always on at max, you do not want to keep a DC locomotive parked on a DCC track. It's like taking a locomotive on a DC track and holding it in place while you have your transformer turned up to full speed. Needless to say, you will burn up the motor.

 

It is just gonna be me, I have made a simple twice around layout on a 4 x 9 table with inclines and a figure 8, so I guess I will need just a simple DCC system. My two locos are very old and run, one is a steamer and one is a diesel but I have a lot of cars. No plans to expand the layout.
The amp power is new to me, why is that important? If I get a simple DCC set I assume it comes with the controller and power supply plus the loco and a few cars.

 

Thanks. I am listening in as well.

I just re-built my layout after a 15 year break. It is 5 x 20 and working fine. I have 11 DC engines that are 30 years old that I treasure as is.

I am retiring, and my wife wants to get me DCC for Christmas. I live in the boonies but have the time and money to do things right for the long haul.

There is a train show nearby next month. Is that a good place to get started?

How big a deal is sound? It seems like it would slow you down if it has to go through all of the announcements just to get started. I just like to see the little jewels go at this time.

How does the engine horn sound work? It is programmed in or done by push button?

Bill

 

Train shows are a good place to wade into the DCC issues. Usually the shows will have operating layouts where you can watch the trains run on DCC and you can ask the members questions on how DCC works.

The lights, sound and operating control of the locomotive is all by digital command. Each locomotive has a small decoder which isolates the loco from the track. All voltage and computer signals go to the decoder first and from there, power is directed to the features of the locomotive by your control of it with the hand held controller. Just like operating a printer that is linked to your computer. It does nothing until you issue a command with your key board or mouse. You can print a document. You can clean the ink heads. You can change color of ink on the paper, etc. The decoder receives its digital commands through the rails along with the operating power to run things. The controller is usually hand held and is either plugged into the layout or it has radio link to the layout. Either way, the hand held controller will have present function buttons to basic control of the loco. Horn, lights, bell, speed, direction, etc. For sound, the loco will need to have a speaker installed along with a sound producing decoder. The same for various lights on the loco. You need to have the light bulbs or LEDs installed in the loco and properly connected to the decoder to work. You can buy the components and install them yourself or you can buy locos with everything installed, ready to go. Whatever the features are in the loco, your handheld controller can control it without modification. When you finally get the hang of all this, you can download programming software (free stuff) and setup a programming track to customize the sound features of your locomotives along with the lighting features.
Take it one step at a time and you can build upon what you already know.

 

If you want to see how noisy sound can be with several trains running take a look at the last video on the last page of this thread. While the sound is neat, it can get out of hand.

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=14852

 

The guys have offered a treasure of helpful information for
your transition from DC to DCC.

Since you do have prized DC locos, you'll want to have
the ability to run either your new DCC locos OR your
old favorites.

Maintain your present DC wiring and control switch set up. But
put a DPDT switch between the busses to the layout and
the power packs. Switched one way you have a DC layout,
flip that switch, turn all of your 'block' controls to on of the
same power pack and you'll have full DCC power for your
new trains with the switch connection taking the output
of your new DCC controller. If you have a WYE or
Reverse loop you'll need a DCC reverse loop controller
that takes care of the track polarization. You simply
isolate the wye or reverse loop and feed it with the output
of the reverse loop controller. The input take a feed from
the track buss. There are no switches or complex wiring.

As mentioned, be sure to 'park' all of your DC locomotives
on a non powered track when the layout it powered by DCC.
It is a form of AC and will burn out DC motors as they
try to constantly reverse themselves with the alternating
polarity.

Don

 

Too much of a good thing can become a bad thing in no time.Sound equipped model locomotives have a lot different dynamics than prototypes and thus should be operated with this in mind.
First,prototype trains usually come from somewhere,go by your area and then go away.Models never really go away (excepted on very large layouts) so sound that is activated all the time will be more like living next to a rail yard.Turning the sound on to simulate an incoming train to then turn it off to have it gone away is what I do.

Also,out of the box,sound equipped locos are way too loud.I model N scale and I like the sounds adjusted so that they're hardly audible from about five feet away.

The last time I went to the local club,a member had his two kids with him who he had set both with a sound equipped train.The bells were on steady and horns warned birds off the track...needless to say I returned home early that night....

 

The amperage is important in DCC because of the higher demand of running multiple trains at the same time from a single track power source. In DC you usually only run one train per power pack. A modern, energy efficient HO loco will draw 1/2 of an amp or less. Older models may draw substantially more. Most DCC train sets have low amp capability, usually less than 3 amps. DCC systems range all over the place in amperage. I use an 8 amp system. Since you have only 2 trains, the train set DCC system might still work for you. I would still say take a look at one of the "starter" DCC systems instead.

 

Thanks so much. I will need a DCC reverse loop controller.

Are they readily available?

Is it a separate hand held device? Should it be the same brand as the base unit?

I have been using the Atlas version for DC.

Bill

 

A DCC reverse loop controller is available from most every DCC control
maker. While it's always nice to stay with one brand, any make would
work. It is an under the table device. Sometimes you must adjust a
sensitivity control but otherwise once you install it you forget it. It's
operations are totally automatic. What it does is sense that the wheels
of a loco have shorted when they cross the rail insulator. A very fast
acting relay reverses the phase (polarity) of the isolated section to match
that of the main line and the loco goes on through with nary a burp.

It is an easy install. It's input is from the track buss, it's output
to the isolated track. That's all.

It is important to know that if a loco is spanning the insulated rails on one
end of the isolated section, a 2nd loco, a lighted car, or even a car
with metal wheels that is spanning
the insulated rails on the other end of the section could result in a short
circuit as the controller tries to fight itself. So if any of those situations
apply try to make your isolated section long enuf to accomodate the
longest train you run thru it. This can be mitigated by using a small
plastic strip between the abutting insulated rails that is slightly higher than
the railheads. That prevents the wheels from touching both rail heads at
the same time.

Don