I think most of the Flyer people are away for the holiday. :dunno:

Here is a 283 thread to read.

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=15450&highlight=american+flyer+283

 

another,

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=13499&highlight=american+flyer+283

 

I found this for your AC or DC question.
I never really fooled with flyers.

A copy and paste,
Most American Flyer "S" and "O" engines were designed to run on AC or Alternating Current. Although, the motors are what is referred to as "series wound", so they can also operated on DC or Direct Current. Maximum voltage is 15 to 17 volts.

American Flyer engines also were made that would only run on DC, those engines have a "DC" after the engine number. Engines that have an "AC", after the engine number will run on both.

All American Flyer Transformers are AC. The DC versions are called Rectaformers.

Early American Flyer "HO" engines ran on AC, while later versions run on DC. In general the power units for the HO are called DC power packs.

 

There is a lot of help for you here till the Flyer members come back,

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=2567

 

Thanks for the links. I think I've pretty much tried everything. I know the E-unit needs new fingers. I've been testing the motor by applying current directly. It spins a bit and stops. I can spin it by hand no problem. I added a touch of silicone lube to the gearing just in case it needed it, but I don't think it did. I sanded the commutator and cleaned it and the brushes. Maybe the motor is burned up. I don't know. I'll wait and see what others have to say.

 

Have you tried to bypass the e unit to rule that out? Try it with the e unit disconnected completely? It might be the e unit, the fingers have to be just right.

You should not sand the commutator unless it is a real, real fine grit, like a wet sandpaper.
Some say use an eraser but I recently read that if you use an eraser it breaks down onto the commutator and pieces get everywhere and when things get hot the eraser pieces sort of melt gumming things up.
I use solvent and a bright boy.

Try isolating the e unit all together.

 

I did bypass the e-unit. I touched the wires directly to the motor. I can see the fingers have holes in them, so there is an issue there.

I used 600 grit on the commutator with a wood block.. That's the finest I have on hand. I saw other people recommending 2000. The instruction manual for the train just says to use a "fine" paper.

 

I did bypass the e-unit. I touched the wires directly to the motor.

I'm not sure, but I don't think you can do that. AF engines have field-wound motors,not permanent magnet motors, so hopefully someone will be able to tell you exactly where the wires from your transformer should go to test the unit...

Mark in Oregon

 

Wait for the Flyer crew to get here.
I never fooled with Flyers, maybe they will have some ideals.

 

You might try this.
As you look at the back of the engine, run a short wire between the two middle posts in the fiber board that the tender wires would plug into,then run wires from your transformer to the two out side posts.
That should enable you to test the motor.
Mark in Oregon

 

I'm not sure what you mean. Here are two pics of what I have: http://flic.kr/s/aHsjNm1x5R

The only fiber board on the engine is up front for the smoker and light. Did you mean making these connections on the e-unit? To test the motor, I have been touching the wires from my transformer to where the brushes are located.

 

I see...it looks to be hard-wired to the tender,in which case I'm afraid I can't make any suggestions. Hopefully one of the knowledgeable folks will be chiming in soon to help you out.
Mark in Oregon

 

Yep, on 283's, the e-unit is hard-wired to the motor.The first thing I would do is to make sure all your wiring is good, solder points are not broken, and that the wires from each truck are supplying power to the e-unit. I would definitely replace both sets of fingers before going too far with anything. just keep back- tracking with a test light, making sure power is going to where it's supposed to go. If all else fails, ship it to me and I'll get it going for you for the cost of mailing and/or parts....Loren

 

Well, right now I am bypassing the e-unit altogether and putting power directly to the motor and having trouble.

 

I don't think the brushes are bad at all. If putting power directly to the brushes is not the right way to test it, then that could be my problem. I know the fingers on the e-unit are toast. So I need to test the motor by bypassing the e-unit.

The electromagnet on the e-unit does activate so I know I am getting power from the trucks to the e-unit. As I said, the fingers are toast, so power from the e-unit to the motor is questionable for sure.

 

Replace the fingers.

 

Where is a good place to get new fingers?

 

It sounds like you've "torn" down the engine parts. I would not use that 600 grit rather try some plain ol 91% alcohol on a cue tip swab. IF the fingers have holes in them they need to be replaced. They are cheap...can be found on ebay and others. Some have tried to solder the holes but i found replacing is easier. There are wiring pics in some of those web sites that Ed suggested. I have two 283 and really enjoy their durability. Take it one step at a time...

 

The first thing I did was clean the e-unit with denatured alcohol. I did spy some holes in the fingers so they need to replaced. I will take a look on getting new ones.

 

When you get your new fingers, get some new brushes and brush springs. They are cheap, and it can't hurt. Go to PortLines to get your parts. I have 3 283's and they're great runners.

 

How do I tell if the smoker is working?

 

Hmm. I tried to pop off the cover plate of the smoke unit. It was either already damaged or I damaged it. The wick appears to be broken. I only see part numbers for the cover plate and the smoke unit in the manual. I guess I would have to replace the whole unit to get it working.

 

PortLines can sell you the wick and nichrome wire for your smoke unit. You probably damaged the unit when you popped open the top plate.If the unit works, I don't touch it.So if I'm following you right, you'll need 2 brushes, a set of fingers, top and bottom, new brush springs, a top plate gasket, wick, and a length of nichrome wire.Also, if you didn't remove the red smokestack from the top of the smoke unit before dis-assembly, you probably broke that also, but also available through PortLines.

 

The red smoke stack is missing. I'll need a new one of those.

 

How exactly do I fix the smoker? It seems the wick is anchored into the bottom. Then the wire is solder to the top but wraps around the wick. The wire appears to be still intack on my smoker, but the wick is broken.

 

Your smoke unit is the newer style, that is there's no bottom plate. The older style with a bottom plate is much easier to repair than the newer style, in my opinion, but I haven't repaired a newer style. All my 283's have always been great smokers. I don't know what the insides look like, but I'll have a go. You thread the ends of the wick into the 2 small holes in the smoke unit, and just keep pushing more wick into the lower chamber. You must, however, wrap the nichrome wire around the wick before you do this. Wrap it around 12 times, making sure the wire doesn't touch itself or the side of the chamber. When you get everything into the chamber, you run the ends of the wire through the lugs on the top plate, and wrap them around the lug, about twice. Solder will not adhere to the nichrome wire, so you must embed the wire in solder..Screw the top plate back on and add some smoke fluid. Attach 2 leads coming from the transformer,track power, to the lugs. Give it about 1/4 throttle, and gently blow air into the piston area of the smoke chamber. You should see smoke coming out of the hole of the top plate.

 

Yay! I managed to power the motor. I figured out the connections I need to make and it moves.

My smoker has a plate on the bottom. The process sounds like a delicate operation. I think I'll wait for another time to make those repairs. I took some pics of the smoker and added them to the rest: http://flic.kr/s/aHsjNm1x5R

 

You have the early version, and it's easy to repair. You can get a "kit", with the wire already wrapped around the wick, or buy the materials yourself and do your own wrapping.. Great news on your engine!!

 

Ok. Placed my order for parts. I decided to get what I needed for the smoker. It will blow the kids minds if I can get it up and running. Here's my order:

Order:
-------------------------------------------------------------------
1 PA9612-BRP STEAMERS: GENERAL (ID: 1003) FINGERS: LOWER, E-U 1.50
1 PA9612-CRP STEAMERS: GENERAL (ID: 1005) FINGERS: UPPER, E-U 1.50
1 PA8999 BULBS (ID: 277) BULB: 1449/455 CLEAR 1.00
1 PA10757 MOTOR PARTS (ID: 591) BRUSH-SPRING, pair: 1.00
1 PA9603 MOTOR PARTS (ID: 568) BRUSH (round shoulde 2.00
1 PA12190 SMOKE UNITS (ID: 1707) SMOKESTACK, red pla 1.50
1 PA10835 SMOKE UNITS (ID: 1677) SMOKE-FUNNEL. 1.50
1 SMOKE UNITS (ID: 1720) SMOKE-WICK KIT ; pr 5.00
1 PA10525 SMOKE UNITS (ID: 1717) SMOKE-UNIT LOWER GA 2.50
1 PA10521 SMOKE UNITS (ID: 1718) SMOKE-UNIT UPPER GA 2.50
1 SMOKE UNITS (ID: 457) SMOKE WICK THREADING 3.50
1 SMOKE UNITS (ID: 1676) SMOKE-FLUID: Supers 8.50

 

Exactly correct on all parts.. Your off to the races buddy. The smoke unit rebuild is a fun(?) project, and it will build up your confidence. You don't really need the wick threading thing-a-bob. I just wet the ends of the wick in my mouth and stick them into the holes. After I get it all threaded through, I just cut off about an inch. The wick is going to be longer than you really need.Just be careful that nichrome wire is not resting on the sides of the smoke unit. You'll short it out......The only part you didn't buy and may not need is the smoke unit insulator.It's the little cardboard-like thing that is inside the wick chamber, and the wick passes through it first, then through the body of the unit. Like I said, you may not need it, just be careful while removing it. If you need one, let me know. I think I have a few in my parts bin, and it will save you on postage.

 

Hi Droo -- We can help you get that baby running again. We've done it time and time again for others here. You and the kids will love it. Keep posting your progress and don't be afraid to ask anything. Good Luck !!

 

While you're waiting for your parts, you might want to spend a little time reviewing the links located in the first posted topic in the Forum S-Scale section named "Sticky". There's a bunch of helpful and informative links that will help you better understand and familiarize you with your Gilbert products.